Stupid about Greddy wastegate adjustment
#1
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Stupid about Greddy wastegate adjustment
I'm stupid about tightening the wastegate.
I know it needs to be done because I'm only making 4.5psi and I hear this awful rattle on decel. I tried to keep the can-side rod from spinning by grabbing it with some pliers, but I bent out the little ************ on the flapper side while trying to figure out whether you actually loosen the nut by turning it counter-clock or take up some slack in the rod by tightening the nut. It makes no sense.
Here the dude says to "Loosen the nut and and screw the end of the rod." Which end?
Here the dude says "Adjust the bolt that attaches to the flapper arm." Adjust it how?
Would someone please translate to retardese before I break something?
I know it needs to be done because I'm only making 4.5psi and I hear this awful rattle on decel. I tried to keep the can-side rod from spinning by grabbing it with some pliers, but I bent out the little ************ on the flapper side while trying to figure out whether you actually loosen the nut by turning it counter-clock or take up some slack in the rod by tightening the nut. It makes no sense.
Here the dude says to "Loosen the nut and and screw the end of the rod." Which end?
Here the dude says "Adjust the bolt that attaches to the flapper arm." Adjust it how?
Would someone please translate to retardese before I break something?
#3
1) The end that goes into the actuator can.
2) The end with the hole in it that loops over the wastgate.
Loosen the nut. Screw #2 towards #1. To do this, you must hold #1 securely while you twist #2. If you twist #1, you will fubar your wastgate can. When the rod is at the desired length(measuring from hole on the end of #2 to the can at the end of #1), tighten the nut against #2.
Rinse, repeat until you have reached your desired boost level.
2) The end with the hole in it that loops over the wastgate.
Loosen the nut. Screw #2 towards #1. To do this, you must hold #1 securely while you twist #2. If you twist #1, you will fubar your wastgate can. When the rod is at the desired length(measuring from hole on the end of #2 to the can at the end of #1), tighten the nut against #2.
Rinse, repeat until you have reached your desired boost level.
#5
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There, got it. I worry about the wastegate can -- the rod turned inside it a little bit, and I heard some kind of weird sound like a spring popping loose. Lovely.
For anyone who searches in the future: the brass nut is a lock nut, and it's loosened down the thread because the turbo end of the rod is also a screw. You pull the cotter pin out of it and lift the rod off of the wastegate, then spin that thing a revolution or two to tighten it. Replace the cotter pin then retighten (gently) the lock nut.
For anyone who searches in the future: the brass nut is a lock nut, and it's loosened down the thread because the turbo end of the rod is also a screw. You pull the cotter pin out of it and lift the rod off of the wastegate, then spin that thing a revolution or two to tighten it. Replace the cotter pin then retighten (gently) the lock nut.
#7
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Yeah, I know. The lock nut was on so tight I had to remove the whole assembly from the turbo and stick the little bastard in a bench vice to keep it still. I hope replacements aren't too expensive...
#8
If you only rotated the shaft a bit without spinning the thing like a top, it should be fine. The GReddy actuator is a piece of doo doo anyway for any kind of boost above 8 psi. Do a search on helper springs, replacement actuators, drop kicking the damn thing out of the garage door, etc, and you'll see what I mean.
#9
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Yeah dude if you did break the stock actuator, you should look into braineacks post about rigging a 300zx wastegate. Apparently it holds boost way better, not sure if you were planning on upping the boost significantly later or not..
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