After i installed the greddy my oil pressure was a little higher than normal (not too much of a difference but a little) that lasted for about 4 days or so, then i moved the return line (was going over the radiator so now it's going downhill all the way) and now it is considerably lower on the stock gauge....sometimes even reading near 0 at idle!!!

Since i seem to be running perfectly fin and there's no difference in the engine's heat/performance/etc... should i just keep on going (also the oil level is staying pretty consistent) or should i look deeper into this? i'mthinking my best bet would be to go ahead and get a REAL oil pressure gauge and going from there. How hard s the install and will it require tapping the pan?

The only reason i haven't posted sooner is b/c i've just assumed that since the turbo is heating the oil up ALOT hotter, it's just thinner and thus there is less pressure, but i'm starting to think that it's TOO low!

I am using 10-W30 Full synthetic Mobil1 should i et something heavier (i've seen a couple people on here say they were using 20-50 but this just seems a little too heavy to me.

Sorry about all the questions in one post, but they're all kinda related. Thanks in advance guys as i know alot of you will have some input.

 

i woul run some thicker oil and also check the electrical conection to the ops. no op is bad.

 

How thick can/should I go?

 

I run 5W50 Mobil1. I've used 15W50 as well, but like the 5W50 better. I get very little lifter tick even after driving the car really hard on a hot day, and only a tiny bit on startup in the morning. I wouldn't run this oil if I drove the car in really cold conditions.

 

as long as you are under 50 w you should be fine. i run 20-50 in the summer RP and will run 10-40 or 15-50 in the winter depending on how the cr likes it.

 

I'd have to pop in here and say that perhaps you should check your oil line - is it to long and is it running downhill all the way to the pan ?
How come you had it going 'over the rad' in the first place ?
The oil return line is suppose to go downhill ALL the way to the pan otherwise you'll have oil backing up in the pipe and the Turbo won't cool properly.
On the standard Mazda oil guage it should read a little under the '2' mark when fully warmed up...depends on year of your car also as some models have a dud guage in them.
If it's gone all the way to nearly 0 then you've probably got a blockage in that pipe by now !!
Take the oil return pipe off and check it.
Position it correctly or you burn/melt the Turbo.

 

He ran the line over the`radiator becouse he was ussung ht estock return port on his 1.6. even so he should show some pressure even if his line is acting like a resevior and starving his motor. check the conection to the sender it could be coroded and try some different oil. BTw a mechanical opg is alot better anyway. just a thought

 

Yeah, but that's still to high to run the return line....it was in mine anyway.
When I installed my kit I had to place the return line just behind the rad and not over it because it wouldn't let the oil 'flow down' in that position.
I'm going to be tapping my pan soon as I don't like that return line and want a nice and short one going directly downwards. Going to clock my Turbo as well. Ah there's always something more to do

 

agreed tapping the pan is what he should have done but if he can make it work more power to him. as for me i tapped it before i did any of the install.