noob, need help retard miata
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: worcester ma
Posts: 1,116
Total Cats: 0
noob, need help retard miata
well, i first searched for this, but i couldn't find it
maybe one of the more seasoned members could direct me
i going to be installing a greddy kit in two weeks or so
depending on time it takes paypal to refund my money,
background^^^^
lol
anyway
in the greddy instruction manual for the turbo kit install
on the last page,
seen here https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=852
"before driving
ignition timing should be retarded 4 degrees to a final setting of 6 degrees
before top dead center"
now, i have changed my own clutch (in the 91 civic and my 92 miata)
swapped axles,drive shafts, all that fun stuff
so i feel confident to say i can install my own turbo kit from greddy
but im scared to death of timing
can some one
1. give me an extremely detailed guide
2. direct me to somewhere with lots of pictures
so i can retard my miata 4 degrees
maybe one of the more seasoned members could direct me
i going to be installing a greddy kit in two weeks or so
depending on time it takes paypal to refund my money,
background^^^^
lol
anyway
in the greddy instruction manual for the turbo kit install
on the last page,
seen here https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=852
"before driving
ignition timing should be retarded 4 degrees to a final setting of 6 degrees
before top dead center"
now, i have changed my own clutch (in the 91 civic and my 92 miata)
swapped axles,drive shafts, all that fun stuff
so i feel confident to say i can install my own turbo kit from greddy
but im scared to death of timing
can some one
1. give me an extremely detailed guide
2. direct me to somewhere with lots of pictures
so i can retard my miata 4 degrees
Last edited by urgaynknowit; 01-09-2008 at 12:20 PM.
#2
http://www.miata.net/garage/ignition.html
Just to be clear... the entire CAS assembly will move. There's one bolt on the back of it that you can see in the pics in the link above. Just loosen the bolt slightly, and very gently (small increments) rotate the entire CAS assembly. It's not hard, and there's nothing you can screw up.
Just to be clear... the entire CAS assembly will move. There's one bolt on the back of it that you can see in the pics in the link above. Just loosen the bolt slightly, and very gently (small increments) rotate the entire CAS assembly. It's not hard, and there's nothing you can screw up.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: worcester ma
Posts: 1,116
Total Cats: 0
this whole timing thing makes my head hurt lol
ok, so i gathered that i need to rotate the crank angle sensor
to adjust timing, which way do i turn it?
and how much?
will retarded it 4 degrees be sufficient for 5lbs
ok, so i gathered that i need to rotate the crank angle sensor
to adjust timing, which way do i turn it?
and how much?
will retarded it 4 degrees be sufficient for 5lbs
#12
Come on Man, did you go to the link I posted? Your post tell me that you didn't even bother. The instructions there are idiot proof! Here's a Mr. Potatohead version:
You don't have to mark the pulley... it's got a mark already on it.
Do this, in this order.
#1: Jumper 10/Gnd
#2: Start engine, once warm, adjust idle to 850 using idle adjust screw.
#3: Connect timing light (ground/12vlt/#1plugwire).
#4: Aim timing light at crank pulley and check timing... little dot on crank pulley should be at 10* if stock.
#5: Loosen bolt on CAS slightly... probably less than a turn will do it.
#6: LIGHTLY tap on CAS with wrench or grab with hand and rotate the entire assembly 1-2mm.
#7: Check timing at crank pulley.
#8 Repeat step #6 until set at 14*.
#9: Tighten CAS bolt, stop engnine, remove timing hookups, pull jumper, close hood.
#10: Connect Bipes to ECU wiring harness under passenger footwell.
Initially, set Bipes to pull 8* total, starting at lowest RPM, and minimum extra pull for temp (for winter). When summer comes, set to maximum extra pull for temp.
Now get to a dyno, tune you AF's, and adjust your Bipes (by listening for knock and pulling less timing). With 6psi, you can probably get away with only pulling 6* total. If you've got 93octane and run a little rich, maybe even 5*.
You don't have to mark the pulley... it's got a mark already on it.
Do this, in this order.
#1: Jumper 10/Gnd
#2: Start engine, once warm, adjust idle to 850 using idle adjust screw.
#3: Connect timing light (ground/12vlt/#1plugwire).
#4: Aim timing light at crank pulley and check timing... little dot on crank pulley should be at 10* if stock.
#5: Loosen bolt on CAS slightly... probably less than a turn will do it.
#6: LIGHTLY tap on CAS with wrench or grab with hand and rotate the entire assembly 1-2mm.
#7: Check timing at crank pulley.
#8 Repeat step #6 until set at 14*.
#9: Tighten CAS bolt, stop engnine, remove timing hookups, pull jumper, close hood.
#10: Connect Bipes to ECU wiring harness under passenger footwell.
Initially, set Bipes to pull 8* total, starting at lowest RPM, and minimum extra pull for temp (for winter). When summer comes, set to maximum extra pull for temp.
Now get to a dyno, tune you AF's, and adjust your Bipes (by listening for knock and pulling less timing). With 6psi, you can probably get away with only pulling 6* total. If you've got 93octane and run a little rich, maybe even 5*.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Frank_and_Beans
Supercharger Discussion
13
09-12-2016 08:17 PM