NC Turbo kits for big power
#1
NC Turbo kits for big power
Hi guys,
New to the site and to Miata in general. My good friend who is on this forum had a good power NA years back and is now doing a big power NA again.
We have more funds than we did 10 years ago so have the budgets to do things well.
Ive bought a 2014 NC and want to get a big power turbo kit. Ive researched and researched and its very limited for NC. The read up on the Fab9 kit was excellent however as my friends recent post has clarified, they don't get the best reputation.
Im now stumped. I want to build the car with variable maps. Maybe 200whp, 300 and 400.
Im now lost as don't know what turbo kit is best after my dreams being shattered with fab9.
What do you guys suggest?
Cheers in advance.
Steve
New to the site and to Miata in general. My good friend who is on this forum had a good power NA years back and is now doing a big power NA again.
We have more funds than we did 10 years ago so have the budgets to do things well.
Ive bought a 2014 NC and want to get a big power turbo kit. Ive researched and researched and its very limited for NC. The read up on the Fab9 kit was excellent however as my friends recent post has clarified, they don't get the best reputation.
Im now stumped. I want to build the car with variable maps. Maybe 200whp, 300 and 400.
Im now lost as don't know what turbo kit is best after my dreams being shattered with fab9.
What do you guys suggest?
Cheers in advance.
Steve
#2
FWIW Steve has a track record of building stupid **** and spending way too much money on car builds (think s2000 full caged car, 600hp with $10,000 quaife gearboxes, Alcon 8 pot floating brake setups on his works van and you'll be getting close). I'd love to see this come to fruition. Talks of 400whp sound stupid but his 'daily' is a McLaren 650s so it has got to be a fun car with a bit of power behind it!
#13
We are RHD here. And driving a LHD in Scotland would be far from fun. Great idea though.
haha I've been down the road of custom builds and it never ends well. Massive amounts of cash and I never get to an end result. I just want a simple bolt on brakes, suspension, turbo etc.
We have bbr over here in the uk. Just found out they do a 390hp kit! Think I will go with that. Their reputation is outstanding.
haha I've been down the road of custom builds and it never ends well. Massive amounts of cash and I never get to an end result. I just want a simple bolt on brakes, suspension, turbo etc.
We have bbr over here in the uk. Just found out they do a 390hp kit! Think I will go with that. Their reputation is outstanding.
#15
Couple of us NC guys are making north of 300whp on pump (93) using the Fab 9 EFR 6758 on a stock/ECUTek ECU without much issue. On C20 fuel (unleaded non-oxygenated) I can see making 400whp without an issue until you blow up the tranny. But then just get an adapter and BMW tranny or the new Eco-boost mustang tranny and you're good to go again. Big problem with NC2/3 engine is torque. You can get around that for a while by running a 4 port BCS and then jacking up the boost in the higher rpms to make you hp "number". Torque can remain low saving the baby rods and crank. There is a fellow on here working with that type of setup now using the Jesus of boost controllers (Eboost-2). There's also the option of swapping in a 2.5 or doing a forged version of either configuration. There is some weird **** going on in TX with NC's, dedicated track cars and trannies, so gearbox failures can be solved. Diff issues can be solved by tossing in something from a CTS or CTS-V. Money solves problems. Jay-Z was wrong.
Also, Bryan offers the 7163 with the kit as well. There are a few things I would change with the Fab 9 kit but the manifold the Glease Manufacturing makes for the kit is spectacular.
That Texas and trannies statement up there... lol
jeff
Also, Bryan offers the 7163 with the kit as well. There are a few things I would change with the Fab 9 kit but the manifold the Glease Manufacturing makes for the kit is spectacular.
That Texas and trannies statement up there... lol
jeff
#16
Couple of us NC guys are making north of 300whp on pump (93) using the Fab 9 EFR 6758 on a stock/ECUTek ECU without much issue. On C20 fuel (unleaded non-oxygenated) I can see making 400whp without an issue until you blow up the tranny. But then just get an adapter and BMW tranny or the new Eco-boost mustang tranny and you're good to go again. Big problem with NC2/3 engine is torque. You can get around that for a while by running a 4 port BCS and then jacking up the boost in the higher rpms to make you hp "number". Torque can remain low saving the baby rods and crank. There is a fellow on here working with that type of setup now using the Jesus of boost controllers (Eboost-2). There's also the option of swapping in a 2.5 or doing a forged version of either configuration.
Also, Bryan offers the 7163 with the kit as well. There are a few things I would change with the Fab 9 kit but the manifold the Glease Manufacturing makes for the kit is spectacular.
jeff
Also, Bryan offers the 7163 with the kit as well. There are a few things I would change with the Fab 9 kit but the manifold the Glease Manufacturing makes for the kit is spectacular.
jeff
#17
jeff
#18
Moto East makes parts for the NC. I see their cars out on Pocono raceway all the time. Duno if it is still available as it says out of stock though? I would give them a poke and see what they have.
Their shop car is making 400+ and scares the crap out of me.
Moto East NC (2006-2015) Turbo Kit
Their shop car is making 400+ and scares the crap out of me.
Moto East NC (2006-2015) Turbo Kit
#19
This thread contains lots of bad news for me! I am actively shopping for a clean NC(2) 6spd that I plan to turbo and want to get at least 350whp on 92-93 pump gas.
Is the NC driveline (trans and diff) really too fragile to handle the level of torque that comes along with a 350whp turbo build? I don't mind installing stronger, lower comp forged pistons and a good HG but I am not interested in a non-Mazda trans or diff.
Any more feedback on which off the shelf turbo kit is the one to have for this level of power on an NC? Is the stock ECU + reflash a solid solution or do I need to look at an AEM or similar?
Is the NC driveline (trans and diff) really too fragile to handle the level of torque that comes along with a 350whp turbo build? I don't mind installing stronger, lower comp forged pistons and a good HG but I am not interested in a non-Mazda trans or diff.
Any more feedback on which off the shelf turbo kit is the one to have for this level of power on an NC? Is the stock ECU + reflash a solid solution or do I need to look at an AEM or similar?
#20
This thread contains lots of bad news for me! I am actively shopping for a clean NC(2) 6spd that I plan to turbo and want to get at least 350whp on 92-93 pump gas.
Is the NC driveline (trans and diff) really too fragile to handle the level of torque that comes along with a 350whp turbo build? I don't mind installing stronger, lower comp forged pistons and a good HG but I am not interested in a non-Mazda trans or diff.
Any more feedback on which off the shelf turbo kit is the one to have for this level of power on an NC? Is the stock ECU + reflash a solid solution or do I need to look at an AEM or similar?
Is the NC driveline (trans and diff) really too fragile to handle the level of torque that comes along with a 350whp turbo build? I don't mind installing stronger, lower comp forged pistons and a good HG but I am not interested in a non-Mazda trans or diff.
Any more feedback on which off the shelf turbo kit is the one to have for this level of power on an NC? Is the stock ECU + reflash a solid solution or do I need to look at an AEM or similar?
At 14 psi I'm somewhere in the 260-285 whp range just based on gorilla math and metered air. My car is a blast at this level. Still on stock 3 inch MAF and not running it in hybrid mode with the 3 bar MAP sensor. Stock ECU with ECUtek RaceROM. I can probably get up to around 16-17psi before I overrun the stock MAF. There are guys running MAP/MAF hybrids and 3.5 in MAF tubes and each owner and tuner have their preferences. There are a lot of choices in how to get to your end goal and it's pretty easy if you can turn a wrench and have some time.
Dont let my previous post about the driveline discourage you. I just wanted to point out where and what would become the weak links at certain levels.
jeff