DBs are terrible for anything in a car. Im honestly surprised there aren't more failures due to DBs in ECUs. Other than cost I cant see why DIYautotune decided to use them.

 

DB connectors are cheap.
CAN allows placement almost anywhere which means variable length as well as shielding so I've plumped to an RJ45 extension cord which I can snip, strip and wire up.

As I've basically already planned the next 10 years of modifications to the MS3 I feel I may be at a lost cause with bartering myself against it as my K3 is simply wonderful.

 

US to UK tuning huh thats a new one on me
How does that work with Tech and time difference?

I'm hoping the autotune will sort me out.
On that note also will the autotune sort me out after turbo install? Or do I get another base map to generalise from?

Does the Rev MS3 on a 1.6 support full sequential injection and ignition (with the associated parts eg trigger wheel and sensor)?
The hardware seems to be there but is the software and if it is how difficult is the switch over?
I know the benefit isn't much but fuel savings but that is what i want.

 

Well Rev has mail.
I have an injector harness I can "butcher" and I have a part finished COP setup from a decade ago.
So once I find more wiring information for injection and ignition I can sort that out.
Probably should try to find some addition connectors for the extra leds i guess too.

 

Which MS are you thinking of getting? The Basic I have has extra outputs on the DB that can be used as spark outputs, but it's for a 1.8 so has sequential fuelling anyway. I would imagine that the 1.6 either has another couple of pins in the DB or unused in the main harness to allow you do do sequential fuel as well.

The software is standard MS firmware now, nothing custom so that should support it as well - should just be a case of connecting it up and telling Tunerstudio what's different and off you go...

For the remote tuning, it's a lot of datalog / email to vlad / get updated map back / test / datalog / repeat until done. Well - I think that's how it's going to work out, he's massively busy at the moment so I'm waiting patiently in line for my turn to come around Autotune seems to do an OK job on the fuel side, but spark map tuning is a bit much for n00b me at the moment

 

I am, and I really appreciate your patience. It's been nuts, both remotely and in person. I actually took down my "remote tuning" signature line because I'm not taking any more cars until I finish at least a few more.

 

I've told Rev what Phoebe is (1992 1.6 long nose) and the bits I've got because of the Emerald as well as my short term desire to go sequential.
I've asked for MS3 Basic which has four injector drivers and four coils so can accomplish sequential injection and ignition if wired up.

From the 11+ pages for sequential injection and ignition on this forum at least 3 pages are MS3 Basic wiring up sequential injection and ignition (only about 1 full page is for the 1.6 though).
Most of the threads are diagnosis of something going wrong with no helpful information on how they got in that situation but I did find some rudimentary sequential fuel injection instructions (I'm sure there are better in here somewhere) and ignition I had found several posts stating which pins can be used (again no complete instructions found yet).

1. Get it running
2. Refine tune
3. Sequential
4. Reroute
5. New Radiator
6. Fun

 

I've asked for instructions about fitting a trigger wheel setup to the Basic too as it will just provide a more accurate sequential (ie no belt slip worry). Not that that is high on my list but it would be a nice to have if time permits.

 

I have a UPS tracking number

 

For the ECU?

Did Rev get back to you about the triggering? It should be fairly straightforward - mount the wheel and sensor, either run a new wire back to a spare input on the ECU (or possibly re-use the existing wiring) and change the settings in Tunerstudio to match the new triggering setup. Then go back through the basics like checking the timing offsets on the ECU vs.a timing light...

 

No he didn't but he did say its possible with the CAS which is fine although is like a rope bridge and a cable bridge. One just makes your bum a little squeaky even though its safe.

Its arrived. So I'll take the next few weekend to carefully do the advice in the fitment instructions slowly. Should be up and running then.
Noticed a few harness changes are needed after the Emerald though. Such as the IAT needs to be wired to the old AFM loom.

 

It doesn't have to be - it's just an easy way of doing things using existing wiring. if you already have an IAT loom going to where the ECU is located, I'd connect it there, rather than in the engine bay...

 

It doesn't but that is what the instrcutions say so I'll do that first then look at neatening things.
I hate the harness anyway. I'd love to strip it back and tuck it.
is my friends book (signed copy of course) so I'm actually well sourced for do it right but its down time which i hate.
He also did the turboot that many forums picked up and bitched about it being stupid. If he has an idea he will see it through for its fun.

 

Just had a thought about power.
What sort of power level is safe on a 1.6 with an intercooler and 2554?
I'm not looking at pushing boundaries just want to be safe. I've seen 270bhp mentioned and 250bhp as well as 250whp so I am at a loss for an honest idea.
Also what sort of boost would that be pushing?

Again I'm not here to set the world a lit. Just some playful oomph.
Doubling would be great. Doubling it to the wheels would be sphincter clenchingly wonderful.

 

A 2554 on a 1.6 is happy making about 200-220 WHP. which is more than double stock power output, which is like 90 WHP.
You'll be runing around 12-14psi.
I would not recommend to push the stock block past 220WHP or so, if reliability is important.

 

Thats rather wonderful. So my maximum fun goal is almost possible with zero concerns.

I'll shoot for 12psi then see how it goes.
After all I will very much be learning the squirt.

 

1. SkidNation Reroute
2. Deatschwerks DW300 fuel pump
3. Bosch 640cc Injectors
4. Intercooler
5. Kraken Kit
6. BW EFR6258
7. Spare time

So this seems like it will be a better plan given once i've got the turbo i will want more oomph.
However, looking at pricing and searching here I have a conundrum.

Given I do not want to buy one thing then need to change it later and with a 1.8 engine being the obvious heart transplant when her time comes (and no sooner) there is more headroom in a 1.8 for safe power with only a few mods.
So this takes me to the fuel pump.
DW200 will sort the 1.6 until dead but not a budget built 1.8 so should i go to a dw300 or walbro 255?
I see dw300s mentioned but not walbro anymore, why?


I ask because my current information on a walbro 255 states:

• half the price of dw300 (£65)
• upto 500bhp support
• literal drop in fitment

Oh oracles of MT what am i missing in my madness.

 

DW is much quieter, more reliable, and has less power drain (wally is a power piggy that likes to roast wiring sometimes). Other than that, no good reason. I think the 200 is good for pretty good flow. What's your goal?

 

Decision changed.
On the 1.6 as stated earlier 232whp in perfect wonderful world but 232bhp is fine.
When she gets the new heart I'd love to hit 348whp but again 348bhp is fine.
This is hopefully years away as I wan't to build the engine slowly over time ready for when the 1.6 gives up.
I am not in a hurry to kill her off either so recommended power brackets are very welcome.
As this will be used as a DD (when not on the train) and a tracked.

 

Only the AEM roasts the wires. No Walbro has ever roasted any wires, and on top of that, the genuine Walbro 255 (GSS342) is the undisputed king of reliability. I have literally never, EVER heard of one failing. I have one in my car for the last nine years to back it up.