How so? There's no flex, and enough preload that the wastegate flap doesn't move until closed-loop commands it to.

I'd still take the 2.5" dp and sports cat as the most likely cause of not reaching 10psi before 3500rpm

 

Not that I am advocating this but does anyone know of turbo replacement tube?

So it is sized to T25, T3 blah blah sizing.
Is nothing more than a pipe.
Probably cast and probably only a few quid, bucks, euros, etc
Just bolts in place of the turbo to hold things together?

I realise I can knock one up with my MIG but it will be bad
I could feasibly cast it myself in aluminium using my 3D printer and the Mrs investment plaster but again it will be bad

 

I actually looked at doing this myself when i was over-worrying. Simplest thing i think would be to buy a blown T25, and just use the hot-side with a plate on the front edge or something.

 

Not a bad idea but finding one seems to be the issue.
A T25 turbine housing is £120 at cheapest and I can print, drink Pepsi, melt cans and cast for less than that.
Also the necessary amount is way less than the turbine housing because it is a pipe.

I do wonder if a foundry would cast my 3D printed mould.

 

Just break out the MIG, who cares if it looks nasty if it seals and is only a temporary measure?

 

Been reading lots of MS3 threads.

The K3 is a great ECU with all the MS3 features before MS had them but every time i change something its a trip to Dave.
The autotune does work don't get me wrong it just once I get there and its tuned its SO much better.
It seems the MS3 does a better job of approximation.

I may be suffering from fiddling envy or the annoyance may be that great.
Either way I've had a word.

If the little one wasn't here I'd be knee deep in trying to get all the sensors linked over CAN bus or something equally odd but satisfying.
As is I think my time is the premium.

 

For what its worth, thats why i went MS3 Mini - CAN support. I can use a microsquirt as an expander, or run standard canbus stuff in for when i want extra features that the mini can't provide (which isn't much given it has VVT and EBC support on board).

 

I was in a similar boat a few months back - I'd previously been running Adaptronic e420c for a very long time, as that was the ECU of choice in the UK back in the day (with great support from P5 and the UK forums), and it was technologically more advanced than MS1 / MS2 and better supported by local tuners.

The car was off the road for 4 years or so after an engine rebuild, then a better turbo kit came up which would necessitate a remap and some other fairly significant changes to the setup. I debated about a newer Adaptronic unit, but a second hand MS3 came up, so took a punt on it. There wouldn't have been anything stopping me from retuning the new setup with the adaptronic, but as you say, MS3 is way better supported. Tunerstudio Autotune / VEAL seems to work pretty well, and after a month of blindly fiddling with settings and reading advice on here, it's probably running better than it did previously - pretty steady idle, starts 1st turn from cold, throttle response is good etc. I'm outsourcing the actual mapping though as I'm not confident in my abilities at the moment - 18PSI / Vlad is taking care of that, and as it's a more interactive process than watching someone else map on a dyno for a morning, hopefully I'll learn more along the way Oh - sorry - I forgot. ME told us that there are no UK megasquirt tuners anymore as they have ALL dumped it in favour of their solution Yah right! :P

There's also neat things you can do - with a cheap bluetooth adaptor and MSDroid I have an old Nexus4 on the dashboard which reads out all sorts of useful info - AITs, boost, water temp, pretty much any parameter the ECU has can be displayed in realtime.

I've also bought a TinyIOX board and 2 dual VR boards, which should allow me to read all of the inputs from my ABS sensors into the ECU via CANBus for traction control, as well as a digital wideband connection, and maybe some more sensors (oil temp/pressure etc) when I get round to it... CANBus really opens up options for future toys as well - digital dashboards seem to be going down that round now, as well as some of the dedicated gauge / instrument clusters. There's a few threads on here with 52mm gauges that can show loads of parameters, as well as a project with Arduino and a CAN interface that does similar.. Enough options to keep the geek in me happy

 

Wow.
Links
WillT from the Moonies had a CAN digital dash back in the day so its been going that way for a long time. The tech is very simple and should be great.

MS3 Basic seems great but I cannot see a this has CAN bus tick anywhere.
Probably not looking in the right place as it seems to accept the CAN wideband.
I'm a data guy so would love to stick sensors everywhere to know exactly how **** i am.

 

Found the TinyIOx board.
Lots of options and cheap.

muuUUUHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAAA!!
God the wife is going to kill me.

 

My comment about there being no MS tuners was slightly tongue in cheek, but they do like to bang on about how everyone loves them...

You can get the TinyIOX from : jbperf.com - DIY EMS Components

It's pretty neat - tiny little circuit that has a bunch of IO on it. There's also some larger boards that do other stuff on the site too. I'm pairing it with a couple of dual VR boards for a speeduino (£20 ea from ebay).

 

LOL they are just unbelievable.

As for adaptronic: I was one of the first US adaptronic e420c adopters and at the time the unit was definitely considered advanced. There were quite a few issues and bugs that needed to be worked out, I think the later batches were much easier to work with, but it still never really caught on much over here. Then MS3 was out and it was game-over for adaptronic, even though their newer ecu (the select? ) was competitive at least on paper.

The WARi software is garbage. It's just like the hydra 2.5 in most ways, which is also absolutely terrible. I always tell people: "you can always tell if the UI was created by an enthusiast who actually tunes cars vs some software guy who doesn't even own a car".

 

Has a pair of terminals you can solder pins onto for CAN, Flex, Table Switch, and VVT (top left on 2nd pic, labeled D13 VVT)

 

WAY before i tinker with the CAN stuff i want to set up map switching.
Instead of the switch i have for the Emerald I want it automated for safety as I had problems when tinkering years ago.

 

Perfect oppertunity to pop some pins into those pads, and run them to a connector of some sort. I've got a DB9 i'm going to install on my case at some point to bring those 4 + the VVT pin out, so that i can do map switching and CAN shenanigans down the line.

For what it's worth, the MS3 supports limp-mode and similar smart stuff, so you can always setup triggers to limit things if issues arise!

 

I probably wouldn't go with a DB9 - I'd find an equivalent automotive grade connector (like a tyco connector similar to the ECU side), and use that instead if you are cutting holes in the case...

 

I figured if a DB37 was common place for aux connectors on MS' it'd be suitable for 5 pins total. The ECU case is already "holier" than stock to run the MAP feed in, and have a USB cable coming out!

 

It might be commonplace, but I'm not entirely convinced it's the best connector - it sticks out a long way and isn't particularly robust - just seems a bit of a half assed job only there because the original MS came with the same connector.

Although I've not seen them in the flesh, I like how the new MSPNP range from DIYAutotune have proper automotive connectors for the ECU plug and play bit and the additional MS breakout bits as well, instead of the DB37..

 

Fair comment! I shall look into some better alternatives!

 

Really the only benefit to a db connector is that it's cheap.

--Ian