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Intercooler option for FM2 kit

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Old 05-19-2020, 02:21 AM
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Default Intercooler option for FM2 kit

Hi, guys. I have a Flyin’ Miata FM2 kit on my 02 Miata, would like to upgrade the intercooler and wonder if there is any option that’s known of or been done without major mod. Thanks for sharing
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Old 05-19-2020, 03:50 AM
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My that's a big intercooler you have there! Too big?

Fab9 intercoolers have tabs that mount to one of the OEM tie-down hook bolts on each side; aligning your plumbing is the only issue.
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Old 05-19-2020, 06:09 AM
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The piping would need cutting to fit the fab9 IC but no biggie.
If the FM one doesn't cut it. then I'd go for the fab9 stage 2.
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Old 05-19-2020, 11:50 AM
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As a fellow nb2 owner, I’m curious on what you end up with. I have the fab9 stage1 and I’m not happy with the fact that the ic is positioned so close to the mouth, and has been looking at relocating my ic further back, kinda where the fm ic is currently placed for (potentially) easier ducting.


Fab9 ic on nb2 prior to radiator support cut
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Old 05-19-2020, 12:17 PM
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I got the vibrant 12800 (fab9 stage1 without the brackets) and mounted it further back, allowing air to scoop up to the condenser.
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Old 05-19-2020, 12:30 PM
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So I used the same core as the Fab9 350hp offering, but it came with a Vibrant mount kit (12827) and I fabricated mounts to the side of the frame. Mine is mounted further forward because I have a Racing Beat Type 2 replica bumper and I'm making my own ducting. The plan is to add ducting to the IC as well so it has its own airflow. I also want some gap between the radiator and IC so that air that passes around/over the IC can have time to mix with the air going into the radiator so hopefully the radiator sees less heated air directly from the IC.

Instagram @acowden86 to see my progress.

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Old 05-19-2020, 09:17 PM
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My Fab9 Stage1 ducting solution: Alternate Ducting Idea
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Old 05-19-2020, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by yossi126

Please tell me that you now have a split-loom sheath over that stainless steel hose running under the silicone intercooler hose or that there is enough gap there to ensure that they NEVER contact due to vibrations.
I've seen stainless steel hoses that sawed holes in aluminium intercooler pipes so am now paranoid about them (this is actually a very healthy paranoia to have).
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Old 05-20-2020, 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Lokiel
My that's a big intercooler you have there! Too big?

Fab9 intercoolers have tabs that mount to one of the OEM tie-down hook bolts on each side; aligning your plumbing is the only issue.
it’s just the FM IC I have there. 3 things I don’t like about it:

1. not center but it’s super easy fix
2. the drop down mounts is long and flimsy
3. the core is 15”x8.5”x3” 2.5” in/out pipe it’s kinda small to my NB bumper ideally I want something close to 20” wide, that’s why fab9 stage 1 got my attention.

i just double checked since my bumper is off and I am in the middle of centring the IC, the silicone inlet n outlet hoses from the FM kit should fit the fab9 IC fairly easy just need to cut both side a bit shorter and move the cool side a little higher at the connector pipe. If I go for fab9 the mounts should be more solid. Frontal area of the. core is little smaller 18”x6.5”x3.25” compare to FM but the wider n shorter core should fit better in the bumper. Now the only unknown is how far forward it’s mounted compare to my FM one.

FM also don’t provide any spec of the IC, like CFM and pressure drop, I am only running 12PSI on a GT25, not a lot of boost cus I want the car reliable for track use, 275whp w/o meth and with meth it’s 265whp but IAT is cooler. So I don’t need fab9 stage 2 cus I think I will have more lag and more weight up front.

so... should I swap over the Fab9 stage 1 from FM?
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Old 05-20-2020, 02:52 AM
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Originally Posted by jtt
As a fellow nb2 owner, I’m curious on what you end up with. I have the fab9 stage1 and I’m not happy with the fact that the ic is positioned so close to the mouth, and has been looking at relocating my ic further back, kinda where the fm ic is currently placed for (potentially) easier ducting.


Fab9 ic on nb2 prior to radiator support cut

looking at the 2 top triangle pieces in front of the ur Fab9 stage 1, looks like u have to bend them a little forward to fit the IC. my FM IC is about 1/2” behind them. I believe the fab9 is like 3/4” -1” more forward compare to my FM.

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Old 05-20-2020, 02:54 AM
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Originally Posted by yossi126


I got the vibrant 12800 (fab9 stage1 without the brackets) and mounted it further back, allowing air to scoop up to the condenser.
how did u mount it further back?
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Old 05-20-2020, 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Lokiel
My Fab9 Stage1 ducting solution: Alternate Ducting Idea
I read thru the whole post before posting last night. U did a good job on fabrication n testing. Seems like ur fab9 stage 1 is mounted not as forward as others, did u modify the mounts? And I saw u replaced the front crash bar is the bumper sitting solid w/o the OEM crash bar? Where can I get one?
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Old 05-20-2020, 03:09 AM
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Thank you for all your replies, members. This forum is so helpful I wish this existed when I had my turbo NA in 2003. 😔

this 3 yr old pic is the only pic I have showing how small the IC mounted in the bumper. Car’s been modified a lot since then, I don’t have heatsoak issue but do have higher coolant temp issue so I have to do coolant reroute and get a cross flow rad. Kinda wanna cut 2 rectangle scoops on the top part of the bumper between the headlight and emblem, so cold air can blow into the radiator from there. Any thought?
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Old 05-20-2020, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by OverRev
I read thru the whole post before posting last night. U did a good job on fabrication n testing. Seems like ur fab9 stage 1 is mounted not as forward as others, did u modify the mounts? And I saw u replaced the front crash bar is the bumper sitting solid w/o the OEM crash bar? Where can I get one?
My Fab9 350hp cooler is the first-generation Fab9 intercooler so it's possible that they've updated it and where it mounts to.
My tabs mount to the innermost baby-teeth bolt holes, one per side.
The front of the intercooler sits about 5mm behind the OEM front plates that the baby-teeth protrude through.
Mine looks exactly like jtt's pictured above in post #10.

The OEM crash bar has a gap between it and the front bumper, just like the replacement radiator support bar (which can be found at mattrussell122 Radiator Support Bars) so there's no difference when driving the car.
The OEM crash bar will absorb more energy if you have a head-on crash though.
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Old 05-20-2020, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by OverRev
Thank you for all your replies, members. This forum is so helpful I wish this existed when I had my turbo NA in 2003. 😔

this 3 yr old pic is the only pic I have showing how small the IC mounted in the bumper. Car’s been modified a lot since then, I don’t have heatsoak issue but do have higher coolant temp issue so I have to do coolant reroute and get a cross flow rad. Kinda wanna cut 2 rectangle scoops on the top part of the bumper between the headlight and emblem, so cold air can blow into the radiator from there. Any thought?
Funny, I've had an N/A powered NB have heat issues on track with the license plate mounted. Took off the license plate and boom, no more heat issues.

I personally think you should break down your problem into parts and see if each step solves your issue:
  1. Radiator and coolant reroute
  2. Ducting ducting to ensure air actually gets to the radiator
  3. Oil cooler? (my theory: it reduces the amount of heat load for the coolant to deal with)
  4. Bigger / Shiny IC
If you are having a coolant temp issues, the IC may not help. I kinda think the FM IC is sufficient for your current power level, and I think I'd have gone with the FM one versus the fab9 tbh. I am not happy with my coolant temps on track, and I think proper ducting would solve it.

On the coldside, I'm using FM's intercooler piping, and with a little trimming where the IC mounts, it connects wonderfully to the Fab9 IC.

Last edited by jtt; 05-20-2020 at 11:12 AM.
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Old 05-20-2020, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jtt
Funny, I've had an N/A powered NB have heat issues on track with the license plate mounted. Took off the license plate and boom, no more heat issues.

I personally think you should break down your problem into parts and see if each step solves your issue:
  1. Radiator and coolant reroute
  2. Ducting ducting to ensure air actually gets to the radiator
  3. Oil cooler? (my theory: it reduces the amount of heat load for the coolant to deal with)
  4. Bigger / Shiny IC
If you are having a coolant temp issues, the IC may not help. I kinda think the FM IC is sufficient for your current power level, and I think I'd have gone with the FM one versus the fab9 tbh. I am not happy with my coolant temps on track, and I think proper ducting would solve it.

On the coldside, I'm using FM's intercooler piping, and with a little trimming where the IC mounts, it connects wonderfully to the Fab9 IC.
ya, have done all u mentioned above to solve the coolant temp issue (reroute, crossflow rad, oil cooler, ducting). The license plate was there becus we werent seriously testing the car that day, but dont have better pix showing how small narrow the Fm IC is sitting inside the bumper. another concern is the way the IC is mounted, it move back and fore a lot. But i found a solution:

Last edited by OverRev; 05-20-2020 at 03:34 PM.
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Old 05-20-2020, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by OverRev
ya, have done all u mentioned above to solve the coolant temp issue (reroute, crossflow rad, oil cooler, ducting). The license plate was there becus we werent seriously testing the car that day, but dont have better pix showing how small narrow the Fm IC is sitting inside the bumper. another concern is the way the IC is mounted, it move back and fore a lot.
I'm glad you are on top of it!

At the moment, the only other bolt on solution is FAb9's intercooler. Where it's attached, it doesn't move at all. I think TSE's sits further back, but I have not seen one in person to confirm.

With the Fab9 IC, I think you have to be more diligent in making sure air goes above the IC just because it sits so far in front.

I just cut the front crash bar and replaced it with one Matt's radiator support bars and the hope is that with some ducting I should be good.
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Old 05-21-2020, 04:31 PM
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Sorry for the lack of editing if the photos. But this should give you an idea of what did with the Vibrant core and mount kit. The front bar from Mat Russell really opens up a lot of room.
Edit: not sure why photos are correct on mobile but all sorts of rotated on the web



Last edited by Midtenn; 05-21-2020 at 04:34 PM. Reason: IB sucks
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