I posted this same thread in DIY Turbo kits, then thought it might be better in PreFabbed section, since its a BEGI kit. You may delete either thread if needed to make it cleaner.

I was in the process of turbo my 99, and then i find a great deal on this 02 NB, all the parts on it are top of the line, and for the price i couldn't say no.

Please read below and help me bring this poorly treated Miata to its former turbo glory!

















Begi S5 turbo kit, GT2860R Turbo custom build by ATP with a T3 exhaust flange and Tial EWG.
XEDE fuel management and 550cc(?not sure?) injectors
Innovate LC1 wideband analog gauge
Autometer analog boost gauge
seems like a koyo radiator with slim fans
Hard dog roll bar
FM Butterfly brace
BC BR Coilovers

Car has issues, hence the cheap price. I will be making a new thread to hopefully get some help making it a proper running car again.

Issues:

1. Oil leaks galore, seems like mostly from Valve cover gasket (already have new gasket.
1.1 Turbo is blowing oil into piping and intercooler (leaky seals? bad drain?) from the build thread it seems it was doing this from day one!
2. car is slow, and i mean SLOW. only feel turbo kick in at like 5.5k rpm and holds 9.5lbs boost. but only feels slightly faster than my 99 NA. turbo spool SUCKS takes forever and reaches 9.5lbs at like 4.5-5k rpm. and almost no boost 2-4.5 rpm.

3. has code P0171

4. when going over 70mph on hwy for a 1 hour car shuts down, feels like im out of gas, car starts loosing all power for a few split seconds, followed by total loss of power. then i pull over, crank and it doesnt start, just cranks. so i pop the hood, let it cool off for 15 mins, and it starts fine, and drives fine for another 20 minutes, and shuts off again.
So what i did to get it home, is drove from VA to FL 60mph gentle cruise control, no AC. and then it didnt shut down on me. (i read that this could the the cam angle sensor overheating, so i just bought a new one today).

these are the main issues. and my 99 NA is MUCH faster from 2k - 5k rpm.

Have a look at the engine bay pics, and see if you can see anything that is obviously not connected correctly. and please help me identify the turbo, i cant see the name plate on it.

Oil catch can and egr valve and breather filter that is spitting oil and wet with oil seems suspect to me so far.

What i plan on doing.

1. Fix wideband, i need to see the AFR
2. check for vacum leaks on all hoses, and turbo piping
3. fix oil leaks
4. figure out why the slow *** spool and no power. may ecu in limp mode? XEDE retarding too much timing??

I just got the hand of using Megasquirt on my 99, but this xede i haven't figured out yet.

here is my xede tune:

 

"Top of the line parts"

Has xede, no wideband, eBay radiator, and churbo.

Pull the turbo, inspect for shaft play and oil leaks. Replace with cheap header. Pull wideband and Xede. Fix all leaks and check engine lights, keep up with maintenance as you clean and replace warn turbo parts. Reinstall wideband, replace sensor or wiring as needed. Install Megasquirt, dyno tune, then reinstall turbo.

 

A full BEGI Cast iron manifold, with EWG, and Garett turbo is not considered top of the line?? why would i replace a BEGI mega $$$ EWG header with a "cheap header" ?

as far as i know Churbos dont have GARETT stamped on them.

Yes it has wideband, it doesnt work, i am working on fixing it.

XEDE is $1300, so it should at least be capable to get the car running "good"

MS3 is in the plans, but i was hoping to get it running reasonably well on the XEDE.

 

What I think of your attitude:



You'd replace with a cheap header to get the car running properly. You say it's a turbo with less power than your 120hp NB, has a MAF code, and you want to continue using this turbo kit?

The manifold might be good, but it sounds like you've got big problems somewhere.

And yes, churbos say Garrett.

 

Sorry, i misunderstood, i thought you mean replace manifold. which made no sense to me.

so you are saying, remove turbo, fix car and put back turbo?

I can do that, but it would require me to take apart my 99, remove header and injectors from my 99.

Then on the turbo car, remove manifold/turbo/dp/xede. swap in stock injectors, install header and injectors from 99 with crossover tube, and plug up or loop the oil/water lines for turbo

then see how the car runs NA....

Am i missing anything?

i can do that. but i wish there was a simpler way....

 

Spools like a churbo, or could be a burnt up chra that spoolz like ****.

Do as curly commands, get it functional as stock with no xede no trubo and figure out what's wrong with it in stock form.

Find yourself the stock injectors that go with the motor so the stock ecu is happy.

Flip the maf right side up as stock. Reroute that racer reroute to the lower rad hose to avoid p0128 code

XEDE wise. That's a **** map. Road tuned possibly by the PO.

 

Well, make sure the Maf is in good order, and you can fix the wideband now. But my guess is that by replacing a lot of that stuff you'll find a lot of issues with the turbo install. If you can't get the turbo to spool probably, it probably needs a rebuild.

You could also do a compression and leak down test to make sure it's not the engine.

 

You pretty much took on someone else's failed project to sum it up.

The turbo 'kit' is good as long as you replace the chra and **** BOV with a forge unit.

Gotta start from the bottom and go through every nook and cranny of this build and fix things along the way.

Get ready to spend some money

 

I have an idea, to get this car to be NA again, cant i just remove the throttle body elbow from intercooler, and just put the crossover pipe from my NB with existing 02 maf? so the turbo will just blow into the engine bay, but the car will technically become NA again, without removing turbo/manifold/dp....?

The guy i bought it from was a tool, he had no idea about anything in it, he bought it like that and drove for 1.5 years, and he told me the guy he bought it from had no idea about the turbo either. lol.

I just did some measuring, its not a GT2860, the flange seems to be T3, the spacing between the 4 bolts is wider than T25 flange, i have a T25 tacotaco manifold here and a churbo, and the spacing is closer together on the 4 bolts.

still wonder what kind of turbo that is.

also took off intake elbow, OIL EVERYWHERE inside all piping, throttle body a little, turbo inlet oil, BOV had oil....

I wonder if the turbo is blowing compressed oil out, or oil is coming out of the TB into piping. my guess turbo is blowing oil out.

turbo propeller has a little shaft play, i wouldn't say a lot, when pressing down on it and spinning it, it does not hit the walls.

 

Your turbo would over spin trying to maintain positive pressure.

 

Just found an old for sale listing of the car, its has the Begi S5 turbo system from about 2010 and about 75k miles. im surprised a Garrett turbo will blow its oil seals in a mere 25k miles.

can the seals be changed? or it needs a whole $800 rebuild?

 

Stop adding up costs until you find out exactly whats wrong.

Hit the basics - compression test, leakdown. Pull the turbo, inspect it.

Even good parts go to hell when they're mistreated with a bad tune.

 

The Amazing power of search!

I have found the actual build of my car!!
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...rbo-kit-27300/

 

Oh man, thankfully empty of any issues and full of good pics!

 

Its 1am now, and i am on a mission to read all 10 pages!

you even comented on the build, back in 2008
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...00/#post341374

Im a little pissed off, he said that he installed FM big brake kit, and i have stock brakes some one rubbed the brakes off the car

 

Might as well move this thread into the 'build' section.

 

lol.


look at how the catchcan is hooked up.




remove the catchcan. revert the PCV back to stock plumbing. Remove the silly crankcase vent filter, plumb it back to the intake where the catchcan is currently hooked up.

You're pushing that oil out the crankcase and through the turbo. It doesn't have adequate venting to prevent blow-by and it was victim of a retarded PO.

 

hahaha I love it when people buy a basket case and think it's "just a....." quick fix

I hope you paid less than 3k or something

And keep a tally of all the expenses. you'll learn in the end

 

that is not how its hooked up,

The IM vacuum nipple is blocked off, EGR valve from VC goes to catch can, other end of catch can has a hose and a breather. that's it.

a useless setup IMO.

Im thinking to plumb that second hose from the catch can to the turbo inlet elbow to have some vacuum

I never said that its going to be a quick fix, its not like I came here saying OMG, I just scored this sick miatz mad cheap, it runz roughhh, Maybe need a tune up???

right now I am at a crossroad, go over everything and make it good again, or transfer all the good stuff into my perfectly healthy 99 NA.

btw, my thinking is this:

buy this Miata, knowing it doesn't run well, hope its not too bad to fix.

or, buy it for 4k. remove all the parts that I want, convert it back to stock, and sell it for 3k.

so with plan B for a total cost of ~$1500 , I am getting a full Begi S5 turbo kit $6k retail, FM stage II clutch + flywheel, HD rollbar, BC coilovers, FM butterfly brace, LC1 WB, and newer LSD rear end for my 99.

Not a bad deal in IMO

the main thing that is topping me is I want to figure out where all this oil in the piping is from, are the turbo oil seals shot or its coming from elsewhere.
This is what is stopping me from transferring it all into my 99.

BTW, I already bought an AVO NB turbo kit with a GT2560R, mani/dp and all piping and IC by AVO. and was planning on installing all of that. but a begi S5 kit is supposed to be top of the line.

 

Do as the Brain says or it gets the hose...

Getting that vvt nb back to stock is your best bet, buuut depending on the condition of the motor in stock form. That would be the deciding factor to sell or not. I mean, is the nb shell in better shape minus the motor?

Or is your original in better condition? Definitely find out the health of the vvt motor in stock form.

If I were you, I'd keep both and slowly work on both cars and see what options pop up once you figure out whats up.