Greddy Winter Breakdown: Upgrades
#1
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Okay well today starts my "winter teardown" of my greddy setup, it started because I sold my Turbotony DP, because I aquired the New Stainless Steel BEGI upgrade, well I decided if I'm gonna do all this might as well do it big. Well here is why I am posting... My plans so far
-I wanna remove my A/C and P/S.... I think I can do this with no problem just loop the P/S lines
-Clock the Greddy and run 2.5" aluminum IC pipes instead of my 2" steel ones... but whats a cheap way to adapt the oil drain?
-Tap my oil pan and get rid of that shitty across the engine drain
-I hate the rusted looking greddy pieces, So I would like to get them all ceramic coated for looks and heat, where is a cheap place to ship them to?? There are no places in this town that does it I called everywhere within 50 Miles![vash](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/vash.gif)
-Maybe replace the greddy manifold, would It net any major gains....??
-if possible do a DIY port and polish of the turbo(I have no experience with this, but own a dremel) would It be very involved and precise? worth wasting the time???
-Mazdaspeed motor and diff mounts where is the cheapest place for this???
-6 puck ACT unsprung clutch and 10lb flywheel should I get a sprung one?, what are the disadvantages?
-got the advanced auto sports SS clutch line
-Either 4.10 torsen or a 1.8 diff Should I save the money with the 1.8? or get the torsen I don't ever autocross...
I have a lot of plans but If anyone else could think of some stuff that would be worth my time to net some more gains out of my greddy I have a reliable DD so down time is no problem anymore
Sorry for the novel just have alot of plans for the car for next warm season around here
-I wanna remove my A/C and P/S.... I think I can do this with no problem just loop the P/S lines
-Clock the Greddy and run 2.5" aluminum IC pipes instead of my 2" steel ones... but whats a cheap way to adapt the oil drain?
-Tap my oil pan and get rid of that shitty across the engine drain
-I hate the rusted looking greddy pieces, So I would like to get them all ceramic coated for looks and heat, where is a cheap place to ship them to?? There are no places in this town that does it I called everywhere within 50 Miles
![vash](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/vash.gif)
-Maybe replace the greddy manifold, would It net any major gains....??
-if possible do a DIY port and polish of the turbo(I have no experience with this, but own a dremel) would It be very involved and precise? worth wasting the time???
-Mazdaspeed motor and diff mounts where is the cheapest place for this???
-6 puck ACT unsprung clutch and 10lb flywheel should I get a sprung one?, what are the disadvantages?
-got the advanced auto sports SS clutch line
-Either 4.10 torsen or a 1.8 diff Should I save the money with the 1.8? or get the torsen I don't ever autocross...
I have a lot of plans but If anyone else could think of some stuff that would be worth my time to net some more gains out of my greddy I have a reliable DD so down time is no problem anymore
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#2
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I don't think you should jack with a turbo port, maybe portmatch the manifold though.
go with the sprung clutch hub, its much easier on the trans
get a torsen, it really makes the car hook-up
get a big radiator and take it to autobahn.
go with the sprung clutch hub, its much easier on the trans
get a torsen, it really makes the car hook-up
get a big radiator and take it to autobahn.
#3
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Swaintech.com for the Ceramic coating and you'll be right on with the 1.8 4:10 torsen in a five speed but the 5 speed is the weak link around 300rwhp. I'm @ 272.46rwhp and I toasted mine but I was "NOT" easy on it by any stretch of the imagination. I had to get a 6 speed and with the 4:10 gearing first gear is useless and @ 80mph on the freeway I was @ 4150rpm so I got a 3:63 and life is mo' betta!
Sounds like you've got a great plan just keep us posted and I definately agree with hustler, get a radiator, even if it's only a 37mm Koyo it will be way better than stock. Happy Building!
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#4
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Well I got the P/S and A/C removed and turbo and mani, DP all pulled out, but don't know if I should buy the ETD mani, what do you guys mean by port the manifold?? Should I drop $400 for the manifold or just get the cast iron one coated and throw it back on???
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I had an ETD manifold on my Greddy'd '90 for ~2 weeks before the car was totaled, the DP was the stock greddy unit and there were some noticeable ***-dyno gains from the mani. Spool improved a good little bit and there may have been some power freed up If you've got the funds available, go ahead and pick one up.
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My BEGi SS tubular mani was $175 but it will make power and cut underhood temps dramatically. Swaintech White Lightning coating is far superior to any other out there, it comes with a warranty but.......it only comes in White!! Worth the money if you want as much power as humanly possible and who doesn't?
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#13
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Well I got the tranny pulled and clutch and flywheel out.. now here goes my ? what all should I change while I have the tranny out I bought (water outlet plug, CAS o-ring how do I change without messing up my timing, new TOB, front and rear tranny seal, rear main seal, anything else I should change while its out?? what oil should I use for the tranny just 75w-90 gear oil?? Ill post pictures up tommorow
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I just looped the lines, and smashed the other two shut to keep out debris
But it doesn't look awesome, so I'd like an answer on the plugs too.
For clocking, I used a billet Al adapter from atpturbo. I think it was the "fits all GT series turbos" one. Lemme see..
Here's a pic of the stock Greddy drain next to the ATP for reference:
img007.jpg
this one looks actually a little better than the one I used:
Alum 5 Degree Tilt Oil Drain Tube: atpturbo.com
but I used this one:
Oil Return Flange with integrated 5/8" barb For GT15 Through GT35R: atpturbo.com
And this fitting for the pan:
Fitting, 45 deg, 1/2" NPT male to 5/8" single slip on barb: atpturbo.com
and some of this hose:
Hi Temp Rubber/Silicone Oil Drain Hose - 5/8" (-10 AN equivalent ID): atpturbo.com
Edit - the result:
img018.jpg
As for the piping, that's pretty easy once you've cut out all that AC/PS dead weight
clocked with 2.5" Al piping:
FMICpiping001.jpg
Why a 6-puck? It shouldn't be necessary...
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/smile.gif)
For clocking, I used a billet Al adapter from atpturbo. I think it was the "fits all GT series turbos" one. Lemme see..
Here's a pic of the stock Greddy drain next to the ATP for reference:
img007.jpg
this one looks actually a little better than the one I used:
Alum 5 Degree Tilt Oil Drain Tube: atpturbo.com
but I used this one:
Oil Return Flange with integrated 5/8" barb For GT15 Through GT35R: atpturbo.com
And this fitting for the pan:
Fitting, 45 deg, 1/2" NPT male to 5/8" single slip on barb: atpturbo.com
and some of this hose:
Hi Temp Rubber/Silicone Oil Drain Hose - 5/8" (-10 AN equivalent ID): atpturbo.com
Edit - the result:
img018.jpg
As for the piping, that's pretty easy once you've cut out all that AC/PS dead weight
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/smile.gif)
FMICpiping001.jpg
Why a 6-puck? It shouldn't be necessary...
Last edited by kotomile; 11-01-2008 at 01:59 AM.
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Thanks for the reply and info kotomile, The best response I've had yet But I want the 6 puck ,if for some reason I want more power I might not have to pull the tranny again.. and I bought it used(yeah I know but It was very affordable) kotomile, how did you make the pipe off of the throttle body?? thats the only concern I have with the new IC setup
#18
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Far from ideal, but here's the first one I made:
FMICpiping008.jpg
That's a copper home depot fitting, wedged tight into a hole I bored into the pipe and then sealed with JB. When we did my MS install, we cannibalized that pipe and it became my new intake, and now I run the idle valve with a little filter on it.
The rest of the piping, starting at the turbo and following up to the TB:
FMICpiping002.jpg
FMICpiping003.jpg
FMICpiping004.jpg
FMICpiping005.jpg
FMICpiping006.jpg
FMICpiping008.jpg
That's a copper home depot fitting, wedged tight into a hole I bored into the pipe and then sealed with JB. When we did my MS install, we cannibalized that pipe and it became my new intake, and now I run the idle valve with a little filter on it.
The rest of the piping, starting at the turbo and following up to the TB:
FMICpiping002.jpg
FMICpiping003.jpg
FMICpiping004.jpg
FMICpiping005.jpg
FMICpiping006.jpg