Greddy on a 96 1.6 90hp...
#1
Greddy on a 96 1.6 90hp...
Hi!
I have a 1996 MX-5 imported from Germany. this model only have 90 hp...
I have read that the differences between the 116 hp engine is: cams (the cams in 90hp is same as automatic transmition miatas). Theese i have changed to 116. The compression is a bit lower and the ECU is a bit different..
My big problem is: Can i fit a Greddy kit for Miata 90-93? People Back in Norway seems to think so, but I want to collect as much info as possible berfore I order.. tips anyone?
Ole
I have a 1996 MX-5 imported from Germany. this model only have 90 hp...
I have read that the differences between the 116 hp engine is: cams (the cams in 90hp is same as automatic transmition miatas). Theese i have changed to 116. The compression is a bit lower and the ECU is a bit different..
My big problem is: Can i fit a Greddy kit for Miata 90-93? People Back in Norway seems to think so, but I want to collect as much info as possible berfore I order.. tips anyone?
Ole
#6
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If it's really less compression, that just means more boost for you. Lucky.
Someone could ship you some cams and ecu too if you wanted. But odds are you'll forget about it once the boost arrives.
Someone could ship you some cams and ecu too if you wanted. But odds are you'll forget about it once the boost arrives.
#8
It is a left hand drive car.
In 1994 Mazda Started selling the 1.8 which in Europe became expensive due to taxes. Therefore a low power version of the 1,6 was made in 1995
The compression is 9,0:1 the same as in the autotrans version.
I think it is 9,4:1 in the 116hp...
Here are some info that can sort things out:
So you guys think i should buy a greedy kit then? How much boost do you think can i run on my almost stock engine with removed cat, larger exhaust, and 116 cams with only the greddy kit? EDIT: with this boost controller:
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/pric...st_Controllers
and air\fuel gauge:
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/pric...n_Fiber_Series
In 1994 Mazda Started selling the 1.8 which in Europe became expensive due to taxes. Therefore a low power version of the 1,6 was made in 1995
The compression is 9,0:1 the same as in the autotrans version.
I think it is 9,4:1 in the 116hp...
Here are some info that can sort things out:
Engine power
116 bhp = 1.6 Mk1 before the 1.8 came out
Early 1.6 (up to mid '91) cars had weak front crank pulley/crank the first year, less than 500 of those were shipped to the UK. Strengthened crankshaft was fitted to cars with UK chassis numbers from 00110630 (final digits). If your Miata is a 1990 or 1991 with VIN 209446 or less, you have a crankshaft with a smaller diameter nose. VIN numbers not 100% accurate If you'd like, verify the stronger/later crankshaft and larger bolt are fitted by measuring the bolt shoulder diameter to be 1.455 inches. The old/weaker pulley bolt shoulder diameter is 1.128 inches. There is an intermediate fix in the form of a longer nosed crankshaft with the same small diameter supplied by Mazda. This fault can and does still turn up on all the engines. Other odd one is con rods breaking – this seems more prone on post ’99 cars. Both failures are rare in the main.
90 bhp = 1.6 Mk1 after '94
http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/po.../igncurve.html to show it is nearer 105hp
130 bhp = 1.8 Mk1
110 bhp = 1.6 Mk2
140 bhp = 1.8 Mk2
90 v 116 bhp 1.6; has a different ECU, different cams, and lower compression. Runs pretty well (better than the old 1.6 (115hp) in the very low range) up to about 5.5 k RPM, than the difference becomes obvious. A tach redline at 6500 and rev limit at 6750. Some indicate >7000 but so far they all show 6750 upon datalogging. No need for a higher rev limit because the power drops bec. the cams are milder (same as US 1.6 auto tranny cams) and peak at 4000. The injector pulses narrow after 6500 with a matching drop in torque. This is probably so the driver will feel the drop and shift up instead of banging into the limiter all the time. http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/po...ta/bobhall.txt has Bob Hall’s take on this
116 bhp = 1.6 Mk1 before the 1.8 came out
Early 1.6 (up to mid '91) cars had weak front crank pulley/crank the first year, less than 500 of those were shipped to the UK. Strengthened crankshaft was fitted to cars with UK chassis numbers from 00110630 (final digits). If your Miata is a 1990 or 1991 with VIN 209446 or less, you have a crankshaft with a smaller diameter nose. VIN numbers not 100% accurate If you'd like, verify the stronger/later crankshaft and larger bolt are fitted by measuring the bolt shoulder diameter to be 1.455 inches. The old/weaker pulley bolt shoulder diameter is 1.128 inches. There is an intermediate fix in the form of a longer nosed crankshaft with the same small diameter supplied by Mazda. This fault can and does still turn up on all the engines. Other odd one is con rods breaking – this seems more prone on post ’99 cars. Both failures are rare in the main.
90 bhp = 1.6 Mk1 after '94
http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/po.../igncurve.html to show it is nearer 105hp
130 bhp = 1.8 Mk1
110 bhp = 1.6 Mk2
140 bhp = 1.8 Mk2
90 v 116 bhp 1.6; has a different ECU, different cams, and lower compression. Runs pretty well (better than the old 1.6 (115hp) in the very low range) up to about 5.5 k RPM, than the difference becomes obvious. A tach redline at 6500 and rev limit at 6750. Some indicate >7000 but so far they all show 6750 upon datalogging. No need for a higher rev limit because the power drops bec. the cams are milder (same as US 1.6 auto tranny cams) and peak at 4000. The injector pulses narrow after 6500 with a matching drop in torque. This is probably so the driver will feel the drop and shift up instead of banging into the limiter all the time. http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/po...ta/bobhall.txt has Bob Hall’s take on this
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/pric...st_Controllers
and air\fuel gauge:
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/pric...n_Fiber_Series
Last edited by Ole; 04-10-2007 at 04:46 PM.
#13
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Location: Tucson "it's 110º" Arizona
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Instead of receiving oil from the usual, pretapped but plugged from the factory spot, you "T" into the oil pressure sensor, providng your turbo with oil.
Mine is fed off the "T." Read this. Check the pics.
Here's a how-to starting with post #7. Enjoy
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4775
Mine is fed off the "T." Read this. Check the pics.
Here's a how-to starting with post #7. Enjoy
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4775
#14
Speaking of t's, I'm taking off my ghetto one to put my car back to stock. Anyone remember what size socket I need to remove the oil pressure sender on a 1.6L? I left my big sockets at home and don't have it here at school. I don't want to spend money "looking" for the correct size.
PS. sorry for thread jack.
PS. sorry for thread jack.
#15
Ok, so I maybe have to fix the oilpipes.. I think it will work..
But as far as I know, the kit delivers 4-5 psi out of the box.. I am planning to mount a AEM Boost Controller, can I then set the boost to 6 psi without anny other mods? It would be nice if you could give me some tips about what mods to look for as "the next step" and what boost i can set..
Ole
But as far as I know, the kit delivers 4-5 psi out of the box.. I am planning to mount a AEM Boost Controller, can I then set the boost to 6 psi without anny other mods? It would be nice if you could give me some tips about what mods to look for as "the next step" and what boost i can set..
Ole
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