Couple points.

One, people on this forum are actually not abnormally helpful or nice. In fact they are basically less forgiving and more rude than most places online IMHO. Which is fine. Nobody here owes anyone squat. And its not a rule of the universe that someone who has gathered knowledge must then share it all who ask. I have learned a LOT about this little corner of car-dom by just reading threads. Because people here by and large know WTF they are doing.

Two. I am one of the fools who has run an EWG dumped on a small turbo application. And here's the run down on that.

-I only did it to cure massive boost creep issues. Which I never really did figure out save that my exhaust was pretty awesome and you could drop a tennis ball in the DP and it would roll out the back a couple seconds later. This was on a E316G and 2L 4G63. I ported the IWG as far as you can. I mean I sat down and spent a day with a die-grinder, then polished everything with a dremel. That was a seriously optimized IWG. And still boost creep.

-So I had a welder (Fritz Welding in PHX) braze a mild steel pipe with a standard TiAl 38mm flange on it right near the collector on my cast iron ex. mani. And shockingly, it worked fine. I still have that unit and with the rich AFRs and retarded timing I was running, if it was going to crack due to heat in a street application, it would have a dozen times over. I beat the **** out of it.

-I dumped that TiAL 38 to atmo, and it did cure my creep, and I had basically no back pressure in the ex. mani. Yet I still had some pretty big tuning issues, namely that anything resembling reasonable timing advance would induce knock. I did NOT weld the IWG shut. I needed all the bypass I could get, and the freer the flow, the better off I was. I used an MBC to get it opening just before the boost level I wanted, then another MBC to control the EWG. I used both.

-Moral of the story. EWG are awesome and superior to IWG in almost everyway, with the possible exception of units like the EFR turbos. But they are also completely unnecessary for you. If you want that sound, Bro, get a QTP dump on your downpipe just downstream from the turbo. BTW, any of these dump-to-atmo options are illegal as hell. I did it as an experiment to cure a bizarre problem and it only kinda worked. Which surprises nobody.

2nd Lesson: Any damned mani will work as long as it places the turbo such that your DP can bolt up. Why would it be so hard? First step would be asking FM if they have an option on that kit or more likely a mani you could switch into it with provisions for an EWG. After that, find a local welder. Use a 1.5 inch flex pipe to make your dump tube. Simple.

 

As the guys pointed out we do offer our FM2R kit with both a married or a divorced WG. With married you must use our 3" DP. With divorced you could use the 3" or the 2.5".

Yes, the GT2860RS is the smallest FM2R option. If we were building the car here per your requests, I'd do this turbo & I'd add an adjustable intake cam gear so the power band could be adjusted lower in the range (more cam advance) for better response. It'd still have enough top end flow for a stock engine. Then, when you build the engine you can re-set it for more top end (at the expense of bottom).

Keep in mind that divorced wastegates are hellaciously loud. If there's a cop in a 2 mile radius he'll know you're coming, and racetracks with a dB limit will boot you off. That said we do offer both.

 

^ A 2013 corvette was kicked out of the event because his exhaust was over 100db.

 

Thanks for all of the feedback i really do appreciate it. With that being said, it is a daily driver and dont give a rats *** about the cops. Lol
There are no emissions in my state and i use to daily a Honda CBR600 with a straight pipe. So sound is no problem.
Yet again i want to thank everybody for the feedback.