FMIC Installed
#1
FMIC Installed
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It only took 2 days to do, and alot of fab work by Brice @ Alamo. We mocked up the passenger side Saturday, then put back the stock stuff so I could drive home. Then went out there today (Sunday) and mocked up the driver's side and then installed it. It uses 2" on the DS and 2.5" on the PS.
The PS is probably pretty typical of most FMIC installs. It just goes up between the radiator and the pulleys, straight to the throttle body. No BOV right now due to the supplied bung being steel, not aluminum. Should get that installed soon.
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It only took 2 days to do, and alot of fab work by Brice @ Alamo. We mocked up the passenger side Saturday, then put back the stock stuff so I could drive home. Then went out there today (Sunday) and mocked up the driver's side and then installed it. It uses 2" on the DS and 2.5" on the PS.
The PS is probably pretty typical of most FMIC installs. It just goes up between the radiator and the pulleys, straight to the throttle body. No BOV right now due to the supplied bung being steel, not aluminum. Should get that installed soon.
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#2
The DS took alot more tiem and fab work. We clocked the turbo, then went down thru the gap in the sub-frame and between the suspension control-arms to the IC.
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#14
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (33)
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you weld better than I do. there's a reason why I didn't post up pics of the exhaust I put together.
don't think i would have welded up a charge pipe to the compressor, but your work does look nice. you might want to invest in a real water temp gauge, just in case that big *** fmic at the funky angle doesn't let air get to the rad.
don't think i would have welded up a charge pipe to the compressor, but your work does look nice. you might want to invest in a real water temp gauge, just in case that big *** fmic at the funky angle doesn't let air get to the rad.
#16
Also wondering about airflow to rad.. asking a lot of the air to make it turn from parallel to ground, ~30*, then back to parallel to go to rad. I think the only thing I'd change is that. And I'd give the bay a good scrub, haha.
pitlab: www.cantbustme.com
pitlab: www.cantbustme.com
#17
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,688
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my only problem with the design is that you've basically sealed the mouth with the intercooler, so no air can go around the i/c and make it's way directly into the radiator.
even with most "big" ic setups, they don't plug the top and sides of the opening of airflow and the radiator still gets plently of airflow even at the north most edge of it. (radiator is something like 25" wide x 17" tall)
but if you dont have cooling systems problems, then it'll work.
even with most "big" ic setups, they don't plug the top and sides of the opening of airflow and the radiator still gets plently of airflow even at the north most edge of it. (radiator is something like 25" wide x 17" tall)
but if you dont have cooling systems problems, then it'll work.
#18
Also wondering about airflow to rad.. asking a lot of the air to make it turn from parallel to ground, ~30*, then back to parallel to go to rad. I think the only thing I'd change is that. And I'd give the bay a good scrub, haha.
pitlab: www.cantbustme.com
pitlab: www.cantbustme.com
#20
my only problem with the design is that you've basically sealed the mouth with the intercooler, so no air can go around the i/c and make it's way directly into the radiator.
even with most "big" ic setups, they don't plug the top and sides of the opening of airflow and the radiator still gets plently of airflow even at the north most edge of it. (radiator is something like 25" wide x 17" tall)
but if you dont have cooling systems problems, then it'll work.
even with most "big" ic setups, they don't plug the top and sides of the opening of airflow and the radiator still gets plently of airflow even at the north most edge of it. (radiator is something like 25" wide x 17" tall)
but if you dont have cooling systems problems, then it'll work.