Flyin Miata Exhaust Manifold fitment
12-27-2019, 06:07 PM
#1
Newb
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Flyin Miata Exhaust Manifold fitment
I bought a used FM turbo kit for my nb1. I’m trying to dry fit the manifold to the head, but it doesn’t want to fit. I can get the top bolts in, but the manifold won’t fit onto the bottom studs. Is there any reason I can’t take a carbide bit to the manifold and slot the holes?
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12-27-2019, 07:05 PM
#2
Cpt. Slow
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It's most likely warped, check for flatness first, if there were any relief cuts, they're most likely closed and you can just take a drill to the holes and enlarge them slightly.
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12-27-2019, 07:37 PM
#3
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As curly says, warping is common, although IME it usually manifests as a manifold that'll slide onto the front or rear studs, but not the other end rather than top-but-not-bottom.
If that's not the problem you're encountering then, are you trying to install the manifold by itself or with a turbo bolted to it?
FM's recommended method these days is to assemble the manifold, turbo, and elbow together on the bench, then drop the whole thing into the car. This requires a couple things -- first you have to clearance the "shelf" on the fender if the turbo is anything bigger than a 2554 (and clearance it a lot if it's a 28xx). Second even with the clearancing there isn't quite enough room to get the assembly over the studs. To do that you need to angle the studs upwards, such as by unbolting the motor mounts and pulling the motor over to the passenger side with a big crowbar. Alternately, you can put a jack underneath and lift on the driver side (don't crush the oil pan).
--Ian
If that's not the problem you're encountering then, are you trying to install the manifold by itself or with a turbo bolted to it?
FM's recommended method these days is to assemble the manifold, turbo, and elbow together on the bench, then drop the whole thing into the car. This requires a couple things -- first you have to clearance the "shelf" on the fender if the turbo is anything bigger than a 2554 (and clearance it a lot if it's a 28xx). Second even with the clearancing there isn't quite enough room to get the assembly over the studs. To do that you need to angle the studs upwards, such as by unbolting the motor mounts and pulling the motor over to the passenger side with a big crowbar. Alternately, you can put a jack underneath and lift on the driver side (don't crush the oil pan).
--Ian
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12-27-2019, 08:15 PM
#4
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The turbo is bolted onto the manifold.
Right now the engine is out of the car, as I’m swapping to a rust free body. I’m going to take pictures to show where I’m having issues.
Is it easier to install the turbo before I put the engine back in, or should I wait? I’m inclined to wait so I don’t cause too many problems for myself at one time.
Right now the engine is out of the car, as I’m swapping to a rust free body. I’m going to take pictures to show where I’m having issues.
Is it easier to install the turbo before I put the engine back in, or should I wait? I’m inclined to wait so I don’t cause too many problems for myself at one time.
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12-27-2019, 11:23 PM
#5
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If the fender isn't already clearanced you'll want to do that before you put the motor in.
--Ian
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