my secret is fitting 11/16 studs in my m10 tapped manifold!

 

FWIW I did not see any evidence of loose studs on the T25 turbine inlet flange when I got back from MSR. Those nuts were tight, and there was no carbon blow-out visible anywhere at that joint. The 5-bolt flange at the turbine exit was also not leaking at the flange from what I could tell. I had a leak in that area, but it was unrelated to the studs/nuts. They were not super tight when I removed them, but still on there. When I unscrewed them, the studs came out of the turbo; the nuts were holding on to the studs securely.

This is all BEGI hardware, with the self-clinching nuts (oval-shaped), on a GT2871 running anywhere from 14-20 psi that day.

 

I really wondering something and it seems really stupid, but how many people have issues with studs backing out on bottom or even top mount manifolds? The reason I ask is that I can to the miata after owning an OEM turbo car(DSM) and never heard of anyone having nuts or bolts coming lose. Make me wonder, how many OEM turbo cars have side-mounted turbos version bottom. I can't think of any OEM car off the top of my head that has a side-mount turbo.

 

I don't have an issue anymore, I use studs grade 12 and Audi nuts with a Greddy manifold.

 

Standard FM 8mm hardware with track days, drag racing, canyon runs and auto-x days = never come loose.

 

my begi nuts no longer grabbed after a track day, I can spin them off with my hands. I wonder if Savington and I are on the loud pedal a lot longer than most here.

I've never seen a vertically mounted turbo lose its hardware from Boost Logic, a custom made piece on Andrew Brilliant's eclipse, and apparently the BEGi S4 manifolds don't suffer from this either.

 

Are any of the mentioned, cast manifolds?

 

no, all tubular. Matt's racecar sees tons of tracktime and doesn't have this issue. I've never seen a sidemount log manifold stay tight.

 

FM cast mani here.

 

Do you or don't you have issues?

 

Greddy cast/ no more problems, .

 

I have the Greddy manifold and don't have issues anymore, Mostly track use, and I don't drive slow. sorry for the double post, don't know what happend?

 

Don't.

 

Can you guys without problems tell us how fast you're going? Compare to SM lap times. The fast Cali track cars are going between 6 and 9 seconds faster than SMs at every track.

 

only had the problem with 1 bolt. haven't had a problem in a long time now. i seriously doubt you and sav are ''on the gas longer'' or that it would matter. you trying to say your too fast for your nuts? lol

anyways, if that was the case, i've been to vir with really long straights (oak tree is a 2nd gear corner leads to loooong straight 140+ mph.) tws is a lot bigger and faster track than msr-c, and there is a track in the rio grand valley (actually cameron county airport) that the pca uses with a really long straight. might be 3/4 of a mile long! 135+ mph there too. so if being on the gas mattered, then i or my buddy's msm with the begi turbo upgrade would be having the same issue's but we don't.

not sure what your mani. looks like, but is there a way to double nut and tighten against each other? or what about a little metal tab that sits against one side of the nut/bolt to keep it from being able to turn? i saw something like that on a car before. anybody know what that's called? or i know someone mentioned it before, but what about a small tack weld? somewhere easy to get to if you needed to grind it off too remove the bolt later. i hate **** like this. the simplest problems can be the most frustrating. good luck

 

With all respect, I doubt Hustler is 'fast' in your book Sav. Nor am I and I am on my third set of studs-n-nuts.

I think it could be down to:
a) fastening procedure, retightening after the first 2-5 heat cycles?
b) heat shielding/temperature differences between cars?
c) resonation of down pipe, engine block and other peripherals?

 

Instead of talking **** about people you've never met in your life, shouldn't you be ***** deep in a tranny hooker in the redlight in wooden shoes?

 

No. I don't think there is anything elite in shearing studs, as Savington thinks - nor is boning some underpaid skinny *** fake blonde bitch from eastern europe. Both suck *****.

 

Now that I think of it the only thing I did differently in the set up Im running now with no problems is CAT high temp anti-seize the can says that its stable at 1800F, but that should make it easier for them to come loose not harder.

 

Does it seem that the FM provided studs and nuts don't have the problem and BEGI's do?

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I don't believe the "longer on the loud pedal, faster driver" theory. A setup with 2* less timing and slower driver would have higher EGTs, and a slower driver on a track with a longer straight would stand on the gas longer than Sav.