Custom intake piping.
#1
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Custom intake piping.
Been thinking of having someone do a custom intake pipe replacement for my Greddy setup so I can recirculate. I have the Stripes IC piping and would like to use the bypass valve I bought.
Does anyone have a suggestion on how to get something like this done? Where to go etc?
It's either that or cut a hole in the existing Greddy pipe and weld something on there. I suppose I could do that, but I'd probably have to get with a buddy and see if he could help me out. I'm not particularly handy with welding.
Does anyone have a suggestion on how to get something like this done? Where to go etc?
It's either that or cut a hole in the existing Greddy pipe and weld something on there. I suppose I could do that, but I'd probably have to get with a buddy and see if he could help me out. I'm not particularly handy with welding.
#2
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What kind of BOV, specifically?
I've never seen the Stripes' pipes first-hand. I assume that a fitting has already been provided for you on the pressurized side, so you just need to add a return fitting on the atmospheric side, right? You're running the stock cast-aluminum intake piece from Greddy, yes?
Welding to that pipe will be tricky. What I've seen some people do is to purchase a small pre-threaded pipe nipple whose outer diameter matches whatever hose you'll be using for the BOV exhaust, and then drill and tap the cast aluminum intake pipe so that the pipe nipple threads into it. A 3/4" NPT pipe, for instance, has an OD of just over 1". While taps in that size range are generally quite expensive, you can find cheap ones that will work fine in soft aluminum here: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRAR?PMSECT=0000000733
I've never seen the Stripes' pipes first-hand. I assume that a fitting has already been provided for you on the pressurized side, so you just need to add a return fitting on the atmospheric side, right? You're running the stock cast-aluminum intake piece from Greddy, yes?
Welding to that pipe will be tricky. What I've seen some people do is to purchase a small pre-threaded pipe nipple whose outer diameter matches whatever hose you'll be using for the BOV exhaust, and then drill and tap the cast aluminum intake pipe so that the pipe nipple threads into it. A 3/4" NPT pipe, for instance, has an OD of just over 1". While taps in that size range are generally quite expensive, you can find cheap ones that will work fine in soft aluminum here: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRAR?PMSECT=0000000733
#3
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What kind of BOV, specifically?
I've never seen the Stripes' pipes first-hand. I assume that a fitting has already been provided for you on the pressurized side, so you just need to add a return fitting on the atmospheric side, right? You're running the stock cast-aluminum intake piece from Greddy, yes?
Welding to that pipe will be tricky. What I've seen some people do is to purchase a small pre-threaded pipe nipple whose outer diameter matches whatever hose you'll be using for the BOV exhaust, and then drill and tap the cast aluminum intake pipe so that the pipe nipple threads into it. A 3/4" NPT pipe, for instance, has an OD of just over 1". While taps in that size range are generally quite expensive, you can find cheap ones that will work fine in soft aluminum here: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRAR?PMSECT=0000000733
I've never seen the Stripes' pipes first-hand. I assume that a fitting has already been provided for you on the pressurized side, so you just need to add a return fitting on the atmospheric side, right? You're running the stock cast-aluminum intake piece from Greddy, yes?
Welding to that pipe will be tricky. What I've seen some people do is to purchase a small pre-threaded pipe nipple whose outer diameter matches whatever hose you'll be using for the BOV exhaust, and then drill and tap the cast aluminum intake pipe so that the pipe nipple threads into it. A 3/4" NPT pipe, for instance, has an OD of just over 1". While taps in that size range are generally quite expensive, you can find cheap ones that will work fine in soft aluminum here: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRAR?PMSECT=0000000733
This is kinda why I was hoping to just do some sort of new pipe rather than hack up the Greddy one.
#4
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If you have access to a MIG welder and a decent saw (preferably a chop saw, but a hacksaw will suffice if you have a steady hand) you can pretty easily fabricate a new intake pipe that will accommodate your requirements, and probably flow better to boot.
I purchased a piece of mandrel-bent common steel 180° pipe with some longish legs on it from Summit. I believe it was 2.5" diameter. I used the chop saw to take a wedge-shaped section out of the middle of the bend, then re-welded it together. The idea was to open up the bend to something slightly wider than 180°, which was necessary to clear my AFM and put the filter back where it was originally. At the time, I was running recirculated, so I then got a piece of 1.25" steel exhaust pipe (a scrap piece from a local shop), used a 2.5" hole saw to prepare the end of it, and a 1.25" hole saw to make an opening in the main piece, and welded the stub onto it for my recirculation return. Nowadays I'm VTA so the return is capped off.
Here's the original setup, I've drawn a green line through the U-pipe where I welded the two halves back together after the cut. You can see how that opened the bend up to the proper angle. Please ignore the piece-o-**** headshield.
And here's a different angle, this time with the AFM removed and a straight pipe in its place.
I purchased a piece of mandrel-bent common steel 180° pipe with some longish legs on it from Summit. I believe it was 2.5" diameter. I used the chop saw to take a wedge-shaped section out of the middle of the bend, then re-welded it together. The idea was to open up the bend to something slightly wider than 180°, which was necessary to clear my AFM and put the filter back where it was originally. At the time, I was running recirculated, so I then got a piece of 1.25" steel exhaust pipe (a scrap piece from a local shop), used a 2.5" hole saw to prepare the end of it, and a 1.25" hole saw to make an opening in the main piece, and welded the stub onto it for my recirculation return. Nowadays I'm VTA so the return is capped off.
Here's the original setup, I've drawn a green line through the U-pipe where I welded the two halves back together after the cut. You can see how that opened the bend up to the proper angle. Please ignore the piece-o-**** headshield.
And here's a different angle, this time with the AFM removed and a straight pipe in its place.
#5
Try to find a small a fabrication or muffler shop nearby. You should be able weld an adapter on your Greddy elbow. I'm not certain, but the cast material might be thick enough to drill, tap and screw on an adapter.
Or you can just buy a 180 degree ubend pipe and follow Joe's instructions. Here are a few pictures of my intake pipe when I had a recirculated system.
Hope this helps.
Or you can just buy a 180 degree ubend pipe and follow Joe's instructions. Here are a few pictures of my intake pipe when I had a recirculated system.
Hope this helps.
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