Can't torque, use HeMan strength?
#1
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questions time.
Because I can't get anything but an open end wrench on the three inside manifold nuts I can't torque it down to any specific value. Is it time to just use all the strength my girlish frame can muster?
Any specific torque values for turbo to manifold and turbo to downpipe nuts?
On another note I bought a Dremel today to enlarge the bolt holes on my downpipe flange after two machine shops refused to work on stainless steel. Tungsten Carbide Cutting bit went through it like butter, and I have the microscopic steel splinters to prove it.
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Because I can't get anything but an open end wrench on the three inside manifold nuts I can't torque it down to any specific value. Is it time to just use all the strength my girlish frame can muster?
Any specific torque values for turbo to manifold and turbo to downpipe nuts?
On another note I bought a Dremel today to enlarge the bolt holes on my downpipe flange after two machine shops refused to work on stainless steel. Tungsten Carbide Cutting bit went through it like butter, and I have the microscopic steel splinters to prove it.
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And if you do put in a cage hopefully it is better than the one that we saw up at AA motorsports in VA today... wish i would've gotten some pictures but it was pretty sad. A toyota starlet with a full tube frame and 13B on alcohol...wrecked at 40MPH and cracked half the dam welds in the cage, crushed the cage and tore just about every suspension component in the car to hell. definetely should've gotten some pictures of that but im sure someone did, I know I saw Scott taking some of the motor/turbo.
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I torqued what could be reached to 30 lbs. and did the three middle studs by feel with an open end wrench. Then I spent five hours modifying the downpipe and my car to try to make it fit. Then I gave up for the day. I'm going to be super bummed if this **** doesn't fit. I think I might be able to get it fit but it might jack up the exhaust some.
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#15
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Also, studs which are longer than necessary can make it quite a bit harder to assemble. I cut all the DP studs x5, all the turbo/mani studs x4, and the 3 middle studs in the head. Box wrench fits everything except 1 of the DP nuts, but that's OK cuz I do the turbo/DP nuts on the bench (turbo and DP come out as one unit). I'm pretty sure it's easier to jack the car up on driver's side, drop the cat and WB sensor and pull out the turbo/DP together than it is to back out all 5 DP nuts....
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i've got the downpipe engaged on the turbine studs and the downpipe engaged on the cat. It's a matter of will both those flages line up properly. And they may but it might make the exhaust sit in a manner that rattles on the ppf. I gotta think this must be the reason they moved to larger studs on the turbine exit. With the fitment the way it is it looks like the downpipe is going to put a lot of stress on those studs.
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So I got the downpipe on the turbo and the cat. My next question is how the **** do I tighten the lower turbine inlet nut closest to the firewall? Wrench will not turn on it because of the turbine housing on two sides. I know I'm going to have to buy a new wrench, but any suggestions as to which. Looks like I'll have to grind the open ends of the wrench down as well. Tips?
#19
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So I got the downpipe on the turbo and the cat. My next question is how the **** do I tighten the lower turbine inlet nut closest to the firewall? Wrench will not turn on it because of the turbine housing on two sides. I know I'm going to have to buy a new wrench, but any suggestions as to which. Looks like I'll have to grind the open ends of the wrench down as well. Tips?