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All that turbo power sounds fun, but if this is a track car, then spend your money on suspension. I have tracked Vmaxx's and they are not that good on track. Go for XIDA's. I recently spent 4k on the newest and greatest XIDA ACE's. My car is mostly a street car, but I still went for the best. If you are building a track car that needs to go faster, you need real suspension before horsepower.
All that turbo power sounds fun, but if this is a track car, then spend your money on suspension. I have tracked Vmaxx's and they are not that good on track. Go for XIDA's. I recently spent 4k on the newest and greatest XIDA ACE's. My car is mostly a street car, but I still went for the best. If you are building a track car that needs to go faster, you need real suspension before horsepower.
^I disagree. If he already has somewhat stiff suspension with wide tires and a good alignment- money ($4k) spent on a turbo will make the car a lot faster.
^I disagree. If he already has somewhat stiff suspension with wide tires and a good alignment- money ($4k) spent on a turbo will make the car a lot faster.
In either case- nice car!
ah, no.
The VMAX track thing is 504/336 rates with 1" front, 5/8" rear bars. I assure you, real suspension would be worth 2s on a 2:00 road course. Not to mention more fun, easier to setup and learn driving technique.
I would start with 900/500 rates, 1.125 front, .562 rear bars. When he realized the error of his ways and installs 15x10 with 245's, I would up rates to 1100/500 and a 1.25" bar.
The VMAX track thing is 504/336 rates with 1" front, 5/8" rear bars. I assure you, real suspension would be worth 2s on a 2:00 road course. Not to mention more fun, easier to setup and learn driving technique.
I would start with 900/500 rates, 1.125 front, .562 rear bars. When he realized the error of his ways and installs 15x10 with 245's, I would up rates to 1100/500 and a 1.25" bar.
But that's just my opinion.
wouldn't doubling or tripling the horsepower be worth more than 2s? Remember I went from vmaxx to xidas- and picked up time. I also went from NA to Rotrex and picked up wayyyyy more time.
I should have been more clear- going from $1000 dampers to $4000 dampers will not gain as much time per lap as going from NA to turbo.
wouldn't doubling or tripling the horsepower be worth more than 2s? Remember I went from vmaxx to xidas- and picked up time. I also went from NA to Rotrex and picked up wayyyyy more time.
I should have been more clear- going from $1000 dampers to $4000 dampers will not gain as much time per lap as going from NA to turbo.
I bought the vmaxx since i was on a budget, i know there are much better options out there but as for now I'm not looking to spend big money on just coilers, down the road i plan to do Xidas or maybe Penskes
Yeah- I get that for sure. Vmaxx served me well in the past. Most people around here dislike them, but I had a very good overall experience for budget coilovers.
No one's going to point out the error of using the MSM intake cam on a FI build?
I mean... it'll help. The reason folks don't really do it is because it costs money while turning up the boost another psi is usually 'free'. I think it might have improvements that scale with boost, but there really haven't been any A/B tests that I've seen in an FI motor.
why go with mediocre FM manifold/downpipe and a semi laggy 2860, when TSE EFR 6258 will meet your 275-350hp goals, be reliable on the track, and spool MUCH better than a 2860...
and the 2560 is great, but will top out an the lower end of your power goals.
why go with mediocre FM manifold/downpipe and a semi laggy 2860, when TSE EFR 6258 will meet your 275-350hp goals, be reliable on the track, and spool MUCH better than a 2860...
and the 2560 is great, but will top out an the lower end of your power goals.
I have not yet bought any of the turbo parts, the Fm custom kit seemed to have almost everything i needed, but upon looking at price the TSE kit would cost about the same amount. I know the 2560 will top out somewhere around 275whp and i am full aware. Back to the TSE kit, is it basically: manifold, EFR, oil and water lines, downpipe? or is there more included with it
I have not yet bought any of the turbo parts, the Fm custom kit seemed to have almost everything i needed, but upon looking at price the TSE kit would cost about the same amount. I know the 2560 will top out somewhere around 275whp and i am full aware. Back to the TSE kit, is it basically: manifold, EFR, oil and water lines, downpipe? or is there more included with it
EFR kit is:
Turbo
cast manifold, much nicer than FM oid school design.
3" Vband downpipe vs 2.5" fm 5 bolt + 4 bolt
oil + water lines
Inconel manifold studs. <-- a must for track miatas. a $100 item from FM.
its pretty complete. just add your own intercooler, piping and BOV.
Turbo
cast manifold, much nicer than FM oid school design.
3" Vband downpipe vs 2.5" fm 5 bolt + 4 bolt
oil + water lines
Inconel manifold studs. <-- a must for track miatas. a $100 item from FM.
its pretty complete. just add your own intercooler, piping and BOV.
Wow never really considered that, The TSE kit seems like a pretty good deal, i was planning on using a no FM intercooler anyways so i will look more into the TSE kit as it seems like a better design and more bang for my buck
12-06-2017 | 06:45 PM
Bp4w Built motor: Track Build
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