Bipes LED question
#1
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Bipes LED question
searched, but could not find.
I just installed the bipes. Runs great, I set the switches to pull up to 8* total timing, my intent is to run 14* base and have the bipes pull to 6* in boost. I set up the temperature and RPM switches conservatively.
So, I go to set the timing, but one LED is lit. Is it pulling 2* timing at idle, or does the first LED light to tell you the bipes is on? I set the timing at 12*, incase the 2* was being pulled. I think what I may have just done is set the timing to 12* and now it's going to pull to 4* in boost.
Can anyone confirm/deny the meaning of that first LED??
I just installed the bipes. Runs great, I set the switches to pull up to 8* total timing, my intent is to run 14* base and have the bipes pull to 6* in boost. I set up the temperature and RPM switches conservatively.
So, I go to set the timing, but one LED is lit. Is it pulling 2* timing at idle, or does the first LED light to tell you the bipes is on? I set the timing at 12*, incase the 2* was being pulled. I think what I may have just done is set the timing to 12* and now it's going to pull to 4* in boost.
Can anyone confirm/deny the meaning of that first LED??
#2
I think you'll find most of your bipes question answered here:
http://www.frontiernet.net/~bipesauto/BipesACU/
But, first thing to do is check your dip switches to make sure you have the LEDs displaying retard and not something else. At idle, there should be no retard at all (unless your engine bay really really hot and you run the lowest temp retard setting) so if you are getting one LED, something else such as your AFM signal is screwed up.
http://www.frontiernet.net/~bipesauto/BipesACU/
But, first thing to do is check your dip switches to make sure you have the LEDs displaying retard and not something else. At idle, there should be no retard at all (unless your engine bay really really hot and you run the lowest temp retard setting) so if you are getting one LED, something else such as your AFM signal is screwed up.
#3
The first LED (or two or three) will sometimes be lit depending on intake temps, based on retard to temp. settings. But, if you set your timing correctly, it doesn't really matter, as you are in complete control of the base timing and intake temp. settings.
The correct method for setting the timing would be to drive around to bring the car up to operating temp., then come back to the garage, set your desired Bipes settings/switches, and set the car's base timing. With this method, it's very possible you'll have one LED lit if your retard to temp. settings are aggressive, but that'll also mean that when the outside temps are cool, the Bipes will add back a couple degrees of timing.
My base timing is set to 12, and I have one LED lit when the car is up to operating temp. (and when I set my base timing), so while the car is warming up and the engine is cool, no LEDs are lit, and I'm at 14 degrees. Once the car is warmed up, I'm back to 12, and sometimes, when it's really hot out/heatsoaked, it'll pull a couple more to bring my base down to 10. Then, I pull 7 degrees at WOT/full load, so my end result will always be between 3-7 degrees base timing at WOT/full load.
The correct method for setting the timing would be to drive around to bring the car up to operating temp., then come back to the garage, set your desired Bipes settings/switches, and set the car's base timing. With this method, it's very possible you'll have one LED lit if your retard to temp. settings are aggressive, but that'll also mean that when the outside temps are cool, the Bipes will add back a couple degrees of timing.
My base timing is set to 12, and I have one LED lit when the car is up to operating temp. (and when I set my base timing), so while the car is warming up and the engine is cool, no LEDs are lit, and I'm at 14 degrees. Once the car is warmed up, I'm back to 12, and sometimes, when it's really hot out/heatsoaked, it'll pull a couple more to bring my base down to 10. Then, I pull 7 degrees at WOT/full load, so my end result will always be between 3-7 degrees base timing at WOT/full load.
#4
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Yep, they're set to display retard, and it was showing 1 LED when I first cranked the car, and the intake temp couldn't have been any more than 60* F. I let it warm up so I could set the timing, and still, 1 LED lit.
I just want to know if it shows 1 LED does that mean it's on or does that mean it's pulling 2* timing?
I just want to know if it shows 1 LED does that mean it's on or does that mean it's pulling 2* timing?
#5
Yep, they're set to display retard, and it was showing 1 LED when I first cranked the car, and the intake temp couldn't have been any more than 60* F. I let it warm up so I could set the timing, and still, 1 LED lit.
I just want to know if it shows 1 LED does that mean it's on or does that mean it's pulling 2* timing?
I just want to know if it shows 1 LED does that mean it's on or does that mean it's pulling 2* timing?
#10
It could be legitimately pulling 2* based on temp. Think about where your AFM is in relation to your turbo. And at idle you are not getting any of the heat out of the hood. And interesting thing would be to see if that LED is lite while cruising on the highway at low rpm.
You can also tweak the temperature based retard so that it is set least aggressive.
Jay
You can also tweak the temperature based retard so that it is set least aggressive.
Jay
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