Added adjustment to the Vortech...
#5
Unless it is bleeding to atmosphere I don't think this will do what you want. I suspect it'll just make it a little slow to respond. What you need to do is drill and tap the body of the and install a hosebard there. Bring your vac/boost source in there and use the valve to bleed off to atmoshpere. That'll make it similar to a BEGI unit.
#8
Boost Czar
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I believe that's why I went the needle valve route...which worked okay.... I never liked the MBC idea, because it blocks the FMU from raising the fuel pressure untill a certain pressure it acheveied...that's it....which is not the solution most people are looking for.
#11
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OK... I think I understand. What I have is just a needle valve that I can screw down and limit the flow and not the pressure. What I need to do is to route the vacuum line directly into the Vortech and maybe have a "tee" on top and then put the valve on the other side. Crank the valve all the way down and then adjust up slightly to bleed off pressure accordingly as needed to lean out the mixture... Provided that I am way rich like I suspect I will be with the Walbro 190lph HP and the 1.8 injectors and the 12:1 disk in the Vortech.
I will also need a one way check valve on the other side of the valve so I don't have a vacuum leak.
I will also need a one way check valve on the other side of the valve so I don't have a vacuum leak.
#14
OK... I think I understand. What I have is just a needle valve that I can screw down and limit the flow and not the pressure. What I need to do is to route the vacuum line directly into the Vortech and maybe have a "tee" on top and then put the valve on the other side. Crank the valve all the way down and then adjust up slightly to bleed off pressure accordingly as needed to lean out the mixture... Provided that I am way rich like I suspect I will be with the Walbro 190lph HP and the 1.8 injectors and the 12:1 disk in the Vortech.
I will also need a one way check valve on the other side of the valve so I don't have a vacuum leak.
I will also need a one way check valve on the other side of the valve so I don't have a vacuum leak.
I'd leave the needle valve as is, but put a check valve on the end so it can't suck un-metered air into the system. Install another hose barb and bring the boost signal in there. Adjusting the needle valve will limit the amount or pressure IN the body of the vortech by creating a leak. This is basically how the BEGI unit works. If you want to get fancy you could put an MBC AFTER the needle valve so that it won't start bleeding off pressure until you hit a certain amount of boost, basically a pressure release valve. I meant to try this with my begi unit but got ride of it before I could.
#19
Cpt. Slow
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braineack, you have what seems to be a fuel hose in the way, do you have a better, less obstructed picture? where'd you get your bleeder valve and check valve? I got my bov check valve from jgs, but it would obviously be much to large for this app.
#20
Boost Czar
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The fitting on top of the FMU was drilled and taped to 3/16" or something like that...I took the vacuum line fitting directly off my BEGi FMU and screwed it in the fitting, the vacuum line on the bottom of the needle valve is on the threads....I just zipped it good and siliconed it a bit.
It would be just as easy to get a 1/8" Brass tee, and (4)four 1/8" to X fittings; one for the source the other for the needle valve....The valve B&T had pictured above can accept the same (2)two fittings....get a bit of vacuum hose and a check valve, and there you have it.