Alright I have my AEM Uego coming in this weekend and wiring it up seems like im either going to be splicing my OEM wiring directly in or tapping into other voltage/ ground sources witha feed going to the back of the Megasquirt(rear connection)

Is it easier to just splice the wire or would it be better to just wire tap and send the signal to the rear.

And by the sounds of it, i need to take all the other o2 sensors out due to MS only using 1 instead of 2 for narrow band for idle.

I have the FM downpipe so ill have my o2 just before my cat.

 

Your call, but I prefer using the options port at the back vs splicing factory wiring.

You do not need to remove unused sensors, although there is no real reason to leave them in, either.

 

That pin connector, in the back, is it easy to open back up to add things later on?

 

its not too hard. depending on where and how you mount the unit

 

Well the unit is mounted where the OEM one was and its pretty tight Lol. From my understanding the pins i need to put in are A and D (A is ground and D is Analog Input 1)

Then the 12v I can just tap off of somewhere for the sensor itself, where would be recommended to tap the 12v?

 

Old post that was never responded to so here's my A$0.02 to close it out and help future readers:

I have an Innovate MTX-L so tapped my MSM's power windows for GND and 12V. I used "vampire taps" which purists hate but the power window wires are more substantial than most other electrical wiring in the car so there's no danger of them falling out or eventually severing the wires.

The Innovate MTX-L and LC-2 wideband O2 kits put ALL the GNDs to the same wire so you don't want to connect it to the ECU GND because it'll introduce unwanted noise (due to the heating unit which draws a lot of current) and possibly affect your other sensors.

The LC-1 was a much better design, it had a separate GND for the O2 sensor and the O2 sensor's heater element - Innovate "dumbed-down" the installaton to make it simpler to install and stop people asking questions about where to connect the multiple GNDs.

 

Glad you showed up, Lokiel. I have the MTX-L after my roommate decided I needed it more than he did. Interesting information here, I wasn't aware the O2 sensors were basically irrelevant when using MS....? Could this cause issues with the car starting up if your wide and hasn't yet been installed?

 

I am not sure what you are trying to say here. Narrowband O2 sensors are just about irrelevant to the MS. A wideband O2 can be used by the MS for many different things. You can get a car started and running on a MS without a wideband, but actually tuning it would be a real challenge.

 

You answered my question. Sorry for not being clear enough. I have two OEM sensors in the car, one in the DP and one behind the CAT in a 2.5 FM exhaust. I've been troubleshooting all day and last night trying to figure out what is preventing my car from actually starting. It turns over but that's it. From what you said the O2 sensors are probably not the cause of my issue.

I knew tuning would be troublesome which is why I planned on just using the MTX-L to cross that bridge when I get there.

 

The 2 factory O2 sensors are not the cause of your starting issues. I don't even think any MS makers for the miata wire them in to the MS by default.

 

they are wired in by default in the pnp-pro

but as already stated, not an issue since the ms won't even read their inputs during crank/ase

 

Working through this same process myself currently using AEM UEGO. After email to DIYPNP support I ended up using "C" on option connector for the AEM 5V signal wire and the ground wire on option connector also. I considered splicing into front 02 wiring but this was simpler and tidier with less effort. For powering the wideband I used a fuse tap purchased at advance auto on the power window fuse in fusebox. This allows a separate 10A fused circuit for the wideband. Car ran fine for a few days using just the narrowband and boost controller dialed all the way down prior to getting the wideband installed and set up. It is my understanding that MS uses only the front 02 sensor by default and does not communicate with rear at all. I intend to remove both once all is sorted and tuned. Now if I could only get the car to stay running with the ID1000s installed....

 

It was analog input 2 for 5V signal.

 

welp, among a battery that drops voltage down to like 7 or 8 during the cranking stage, I'm sure there are a thousand other things I'm having to deal with before the car will start.

 

I already have my wideband installed (AEM uego) gound somewhere and power conected. I just installed my mspnp pro.
So from the wideband, i can re-wire the ground to the options port to "A" and the white wire to "C"(analog plug 2)? (i thought id say something like o2/ wideband or something like that in the optional port option) "D" says its for MAF
Leave the power source where i have it at?
I hate splicing and definitely dont want to cut OE harnes for o2 and stuff.

 

Ground to option connector pin A, signal to C. Get your power from the power window fuse or something like that.

 

I'm considering stand alones for my MSM. DIYPNP does not have a digital wideband input it sounds like?

 

i have a msm with mspnp pro. Follow the post before yours which is what I used. Ground A and wideband input on C

 

If you want digital A/FR, you'll need either an MSLabs CAN Wideband module (see MSLabs CAN Wideband Module) or the TinyIOx board via its CAN module (see aidanjdj's "most excellent" thread write-up at https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...tinyiox-89144/).

I'm a fan of the TinyIOx board since it allows additional sensors to be added easily via the CAN bus (my implemlementation: Lokiel's "Gina" (2004 Titanium SE) - Page 50 - mx5cartalk.com).