pnp NA to pnp Turbo ???
#1
pnp NA to pnp Turbo ???
Hi All,
I've been running pnp on my car for about 3 months now and have it running almost like stock.
The AFM is about the only mod at the moment.
After setting the initial timing, the only thing I have really played with is the fuel map.
My turbo is going on this weekend.
Where do I start ?????
I have bigger injectors, but might not fit them until later.
I also have an EBC, but will probably also leave that until later and just use the mechanical actuator for now.
Any tips or pointers would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks,
Pat (UK).
I've been running pnp on my car for about 3 months now and have it running almost like stock.
The AFM is about the only mod at the moment.
After setting the initial timing, the only thing I have really played with is the fuel map.
My turbo is going on this weekend.
Where do I start ?????
I have bigger injectors, but might not fit them until later.
I also have an EBC, but will probably also leave that until later and just use the mechanical actuator for now.
Any tips or pointers would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks,
Pat (UK).
#4
Follow this link:
MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com
Then scroll down to "Boost (tuning for it)." We've got most of the questions covered there.
MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com
Then scroll down to "Boost (tuning for it)." We've got most of the questions covered there.
#5
Thanks.
I've read and taken in a lot of the manual, but am still really struggling with this.
The more I read the more complex it gets and it's all going over my head without someone pointing me in the right direction.
I've spent a fortune on bits and just want to get the car running smoothly and it's really beginning to p me off at the moment.
Injectors (550's) and ebc fitted as well as a hybrid T25 with FM intercooler and other associated parts.
All I have done in Megatune since fitting the turbo and other bits is adjusted the required fuel in constants to suit my engine size and injectors and an AFR of 12.7.
I then went into boost controller parameters and changed the closed loop to 20, the typical ambient pressure to 98 kPa (this is what the Megatune gauge showed before I started the engine).
I then went into the boost kpa target tables and changed them all to 85 as the actuator is really weak on my turbo.
My AFR's are now all over the place ranging from 10.4 to 19.9.
The car runs like a bag of poo and kangaroos really bad between 3 and 4k and really struggles above 4k to do anything.
I am also getting turbo chatter when releasing the throttle, but managed a few atishoo's from the dump valve when the car was pushed in 1st gear.
I also fitted a knocksense and turned the screw 15-20% as recommended from the light being on at idle - the light comes on an awful lot, but the engine sounds just the same with no audible "concerns".
Help.
Thanks,
Pat...
I've read and taken in a lot of the manual, but am still really struggling with this.
The more I read the more complex it gets and it's all going over my head without someone pointing me in the right direction.
I've spent a fortune on bits and just want to get the car running smoothly and it's really beginning to p me off at the moment.
Injectors (550's) and ebc fitted as well as a hybrid T25 with FM intercooler and other associated parts.
All I have done in Megatune since fitting the turbo and other bits is adjusted the required fuel in constants to suit my engine size and injectors and an AFR of 12.7.
I then went into boost controller parameters and changed the closed loop to 20, the typical ambient pressure to 98 kPa (this is what the Megatune gauge showed before I started the engine).
I then went into the boost kpa target tables and changed them all to 85 as the actuator is really weak on my turbo.
My AFR's are now all over the place ranging from 10.4 to 19.9.
The car runs like a bag of poo and kangaroos really bad between 3 and 4k and really struggles above 4k to do anything.
I am also getting turbo chatter when releasing the throttle, but managed a few atishoo's from the dump valve when the car was pushed in 1st gear.
I also fitted a knocksense and turned the screw 15-20% as recommended from the light being on at idle - the light comes on an awful lot, but the engine sounds just the same with no audible "concerns".
Help.
Thanks,
Pat...
#6
Boost Pope
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,339
Total Cats: 6,793
I then went into boost controller parameters and changed the closed loop to 20, the typical ambient pressure to 98 kPa (this is what the Megatune gauge showed before I started the engine).
I then went into the boost kpa target tables and changed them all to 85 as the actuator is really weak on my turbo.
I then went into the boost kpa target tables and changed them all to 85 as the actuator is really weak on my turbo.
My AFR's are now all over the place ranging from 10.4 to 19.9.
a bag of poo and kangaroos
This is, hands-down, the funniest thing I have heard in a long time. How is it that with all of my British friends and co-workers (one of whom is from Leeds) I've never heard this before? (And, how poorly does a bag of poo and kangaroos run?)
I am also getting turbo chatter when releasing the throttle, but managed a few atishoo's from the dump valve when the car was pushed in 1st gear.
I also fitted a knocksense and turned the screw 15-20% as recommended from the light being on at idle - the light comes on an awful lot, but the engine sounds just the same with no audible "concerns".
#10
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,339
Total Cats: 6,793
I see. "It runs like a bag of poo, and it kangaroos." I usually refer to that behavior as "porpoising". Nevertheless, I am going to start using the term
"poo and kangaroos" in everyday conversation.
The only thing I'd change is to either raise the temperature to around 70, or make sure you instruct MLV to ignore all data below 70 (the latter would be better). Reason is that we don't want MLV correcting the tables during warmup and ASE. Get the VE tables tuned for normal operation, then tune warmup and ASE separately.
No, leave the BOV in place. It's not going to hurt your tuning, I'm just offering advice on how to loosen it up and make it vent more easily.
"poo and kangaroos" in everyday conversation.
The only thing I'd change is to either raise the temperature to around 70, or make sure you instruct MLV to ignore all data below 70 (the latter would be better). Reason is that we don't want MLV correcting the tables during warmup and ASE. Get the VE tables tuned for normal operation, then tune warmup and ASE separately.
No, leave the BOV in place. It's not going to hurt your tuning, I'm just offering advice on how to loosen it up and make it vent more easily.
#11
Poos and kangaroos - now that's funny - think you've started something.
Right, I've removed the EBC and did some VE tuning as you suggested above - about 8 x 5 minute logs taking it easy and not pushing the car, analysing each time.
I then altered the EGO as suggested and did the same again.
The car is running loads better and is "almost" driveable, faster than stock, but no where near what I was hoping for - but I realise that will come in time and with some more understanding.
The AFR's look a lot better as well - 10 to 16.
There is now only "poos and kangaroos" between 3200 and 4000 revs in all gears, and 3rd and 4th don't seem to want to go higher than 4000.
Also a small issue when letting go of the throttle after WOT and the car almost stalling.
I've uploaded my last log and MSQ if anyone gets a minute:
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/patrick...0905261341.xls
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/patrick...alysed%208.msq
I'll have a look at the BOV later - makes sense as if the valve isn't opening, it will be creating back pressure and hence the turbo flutter - see, I'm learning!
What should I be looking at next?
Thanks in advance,
Pat...
Right, I've removed the EBC and did some VE tuning as you suggested above - about 8 x 5 minute logs taking it easy and not pushing the car, analysing each time.
I then altered the EGO as suggested and did the same again.
The car is running loads better and is "almost" driveable, faster than stock, but no where near what I was hoping for - but I realise that will come in time and with some more understanding.
The AFR's look a lot better as well - 10 to 16.
There is now only "poos and kangaroos" between 3200 and 4000 revs in all gears, and 3rd and 4th don't seem to want to go higher than 4000.
Also a small issue when letting go of the throttle after WOT and the car almost stalling.
I've uploaded my last log and MSQ if anyone gets a minute:
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/patrick...0905261341.xls
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/patrick...alysed%208.msq
I'll have a look at the BOV later - makes sense as if the valve isn't opening, it will be creating back pressure and hence the turbo flutter - see, I'm learning!
What should I be looking at next?
Thanks in advance,
Pat...
#13
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,339
Total Cats: 6,793
When you first drop back to idle from a higher RPM, the MS starts at the minimum value and then works its way up. All this time, your engine is struggling to run. By raising the minimum value, it starts at a higher number and thus has an easier time of finding stability.
#14
Cheers Joe,
That's sorted out the idle dropping and thanks for explaining "why" in english - even I got it!
Just been pointed in the direction of the AFR target table and mine were way off.
Have amended them to read something sensible and will be out later getting some more logs.
I've gone for approx:
16 - 41 kpa - 14.7
60 - 100 kpa - 13.5
100 kpa and above - 11.8
It's a steep learning curve!
Pat...
That's sorted out the idle dropping and thanks for explaining "why" in english - even I got it!
Just been pointed in the direction of the AFR target table and mine were way off.
Have amended them to read something sensible and will be out later getting some more logs.
I've gone for approx:
16 - 41 kpa - 14.7
60 - 100 kpa - 13.5
100 kpa and above - 11.8
It's a steep learning curve!
Pat...
#15
Right, running a bit better after 3 hours of small logs.
Still kangarooing though around 4k.
Any thoughts or suggestions anyone?
MSQ - Right click and save as....
Log
Thanks,
Pat...
Still kangarooing though around 4k.
Any thoughts or suggestions anyone?
MSQ - Right click and save as....
Log
Thanks,
Pat...
#16
Right, I found an MSQ on my CD that seemed a lot better than mine.
Tried and tested and the car is running a lot better (and quicker) so I'm getting there slowly.
Latest Log
Latest MSQ - right click and save
Pat...
Tried and tested and the car is running a lot better (and quicker) so I'm getting there slowly.
Latest Log
Latest MSQ - right click and save
Pat...
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