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DIYPNP for 90-93 miata. Running on a 93 miata.
Bought a turbo car for cheap basically for the MS. Car ran but not well.
Put newest Frimware on and got "Conflict between spare output and Spark output"
I looked this conflict up and it seems someone has had good luck tuning off "Injection LED, Accel LED and Warm up LED"
Im very confused. I thought it would be more like place new frimware on MS and then put on startup map given by DIYAT and then start screwing with settings. I cant even get the car to start.
MAP line is ran and connected. GM AIT is installed and setting has been changed in TS. Innovate wideband.
I hope this is enough info and thank you in advanced I cannont believe after 6 years of having miatas this is my first MS!
Okay so I got the timing light out finally and no spark is definitely a cause. I tried jumping FP to GRN with no avil.
I updated to the latest firmware on the DIY site. 3.4.2 and uploaded a base map. I instantly get hit with an error.
Upon further reading it seems there is too many "LED's" on. So i found the setting to turn one off and after its turned off the error goes away.
Still no spark.
Very confused. I read on DIY's site that you should use an older verson firmware that the base was attached to. So I tried that on 3.3.3 also no luck. I added screenshots and attached my tune and data log.
Error on startup LED page After I disable LED 016
First, make sure the DIYPNP is loaded with MicroSquirt Module firmware - that screen shot appears to be set for full sized MS2 firmware. This can cause all sorts of weirdness, including it reading that you have configured outputs on the wrong pins.
First, make sure the DIYPNP is loaded with MicroSquirt Module firmware - that screen shot appears to be set for full sized MS2 firmware. This can cause all sorts of weirdness, including it reading that you have configured outputs on the wrong pins.
I noticed this during one of my Reflashes. This helped significantly. The car is now running. But Still cant get it to run with out the MAF. You rock Matt Cramer!
If it needs the MAF to run, make sure you have the high side driver supplying 12V when turned on and the ST SIGN fuse removed.
Thank you again.. I figured out that my Wideband is giving me a shorting error. Im assuming the car wont start with out a o2 sensor of some sort. I ordered a new one from innovate and it will be here friday. I hope I can get the car running by next week to take it to the tooooonnerr
Alright guys.So installed the new wideband. No longer getting odd readings from it. But the car still wont start with the MAF unplugged. I was told to remove the ST SIGN and I did that previous to MS install. And now I have been trying to research to find out where the "High side driver" is. I went into the DIYPNP manual and found a section on it but did not see what pin exactly Im supposted to be checking for 12v is.
Thanks again I also uploaded the photos of the board
Why did you wire the high side driver to the circuit meant to power a Bluetooth adapter? If you found any directions on a DIYAutoTune page stating to do this, please send me a link so I can fix this ASAP.
did not do that! the red lines were where I hooked the multimeter up to get the reading. I guess it makes sense that it was only getting 4.7v because thats what the bluetooth adapter is getting. So i guess I am not getting 12V to the High side driver.
Originally Posted by Matt Cramer
Why did you wire the high side driver to the circuit meant to power a Bluetooth adapter? If you found any directions on a DIYAutoTune page stating to do this, please send me a link so I can fix this ASAP.