MKTurbo Sale Thread
#1662
mkturbo.com
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I believe it took the guy who designed the manifold about 2 nights to print it.
#1664
I did not have those L shaped brackets hence my confusion.
Based on my test fits so far, it looks like a significant portion of the front air dam will have to be cut. Would it be better to just remove this bit all together? Doesn't look like it will direct much air with the amount that has to be cut for fitment.
#1665
Hmm, might want to ask Lars about the L brackets. He will be gone for a week or so so might be easier to fab your own tbh. I can measure mine maybe and send dimensions if you are in a real hurry. Its a small 10mm bolt that threads into the spots. You could take the bolt holding the horn into ACE or somewhere and find another. I removed mine completely, I believe someone a couple posts up cut theirs up. I was planning on making my own ducting/splitter anyways so I didn't worry about it. Figured it would be easier than trying to cut it out perfectly like I would like, imo. If your latch stays secure without the bracket, that works.
Unrelated: Awesome looking manifold Lars, excited to see how it works out!
Unrelated: Awesome looking manifold Lars, excited to see how it works out!
Last edited by thebigtuna; 02-13-2018 at 07:55 PM. Reason: words
#1667
I actually designed it with a water jacket around the flow passages to keep it cool; between that and the high temp black paint, the temperature won't be a problem. The only concern at this point is the gorilla glue holding the 2 halves together.
#1668
I have mentioned this to some of us at MRLS. My tips are these.
Keep all the v bands loose and start with the front one. Make the downpipe touch the engine/transmission, it all moves together. Then adjust and tighten the rest of the v bands working towards the back. You can bend the hangers a little bit to get it just right if necessary.
I always want to orient the downpipe 1/2 way between the chassis and the transmission, took me a few times to stop doing that. The downpipe doesn't rattle against the engine/transmission, it rattles against the chassis.
Keep all the v bands loose and start with the front one. Make the downpipe touch the engine/transmission, it all moves together. Then adjust and tighten the rest of the v bands working towards the back. You can bend the hangers a little bit to get it just right if necessary.
I always want to orient the downpipe 1/2 way between the chassis and the transmission, took me a few times to stop doing that. The downpipe doesn't rattle against the engine/transmission, it rattles against the chassis.
Thanks! Tried it out as you said and it worked!. Noise is completely gone and I'm super happy about that. The new orientation left the exhaust with a leak where the downpipe connects to the turbo at the v-band. I'm going to retry and fit it better when I do my brakes. I'm worried that leak could mess with my afrs
#1669
Yeah, I ran out of the green because I had like 3 prints fail halfway through. Each half was about 4.5 hours to print, but it took several tries to get it right.
I actually designed it with a water jacket around the flow passages to keep it cool; between that and the high temp black paint, the temperature won't be a problem. The only concern at this point is the gorilla glue holding the 2 halves together.
I actually designed it with a water jacket around the flow passages to keep it cool; between that and the high temp black paint, the temperature won't be a problem. The only concern at this point is the gorilla glue holding the 2 halves together.
#1678
mkturbo.com
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Enji-ninja is the guy who designed my new manifold. Based on my current log manifold he was able to design something that should flow a good bit better then what I currently make.
I cannot confirm or deny that a t2 based manifold is in the works. But if you look in my build thread you might be able to get a hint.
That is an EGR port. You just need to use a 99/00 egr tube.
I cannot confirm or deny that a t2 based manifold is in the works. But if you look in my build thread you might be able to get a hint.
That is an EGR port. You just need to use a 99/00 egr tube.
#1679
So I saw mention of a ebay ball bearing t3 turbo earlier in the threads and was curious of any news on the matter. My 1.6 setup is maxed out at 206hp with lars's intercooler (cx racing big tooth) setup (intake temps start to spike). I'm chasing more power anyone know of a better intercooler option that wont break the bank?
Also curious if anyone has switched over to e85 on this setup and if so what power did you find?
Also curious if anyone has switched over to e85 on this setup and if so what power did you find?
#1680
1.8 swap. Seriously. The reason you’re maxed out is because of the poor flow characteristics of the 1.6L head. A bigger intercooler might keep your IAT’s down some, but your already past the point of diminishing returns. 5psi more might only get you 10-15hp.
I boosted my 1.6L so I could take my time with my 1.8L build. I’m actually pretty happy around 200hp, but there’s no question where I”m eventually headed.
I boosted my 1.6L so I could take my time with my 1.8L build. I’m actually pretty happy around 200hp, but there’s no question where I”m eventually headed.