FS: '96 1.8l Engine
#1
FS: '96 1.8l Engine
This is the original engine from my '96 with 94K miles on the odometer when I removed it to put in my 2000 "race" engine. The last 30K miles were run with Mobil 1 oil, before that, I don't know. It had the following compression @ 87K miles (8/04): 200,190,192,200. Power output was 121rwhp/108ft# on Dynojet dyno at 90k miles(11/04) and 129rwhp/114ft# on same dyno 6 months later using SDS engine management. I modified the fuel rail to provide fuel feed at both ends, and it has an insulating intake manifold gasket. It does NOT include the CAS, CrAS, EGR valve/pipe, temp guage sender, injectors, coils/wires/plugs (because these were used on the new engine). This engine would be a good candidate for a 1.6l>1.8l swap or just to replace an old worn-out 1.8l. Asking $850 (buyer picks up or pays for shipping).
#2
This is the original engine from my '96 with 94K miles on the odometer when I removed it to put in my 2000 "race" engine. The last 30K miles were run with Mobil 1 oil, before that, I don't know. It had the following compression @ 87K miles (8/04): 200,190,192,200. Power output was 121rwhp/108ft# on Dynojet dyno at 90k miles(11/04) and 129rwhp/114ft# on same dyno 6 months later using SDS engine management. I modified the fuel rail to provide fuel feed at both ends, and it has an insulating intake manifold gasket. It does NOT include the CAS, CrAS, EGR valve/pipe, temp guage sender, injectors, coils/wires/plugs (because these were used on the new engine). This engine would be a good candidate for a 1.6l>1.8l swap or just to replace an old worn-out 1.8l. Asking $850 (buyer picks up or pays for shipping).
#4
Yup, you can buy them all day long from wrecking yards for cheep. That's how I got my 2000 engine. But you don't have any way of knowing what you are getting! That engine I got was in such bad shape I had to put new bearings, new pistons, of course new rings, all new gaskets and seals,have the block honed (actually since I had to take the block to a machine shop anyway I had it bored out .5mm oversize), the head was a mess and had to be re-shimmed, etc., etc., etc. I ended up spending another $700+ on the damn thing! If you want an engine to rebuild, buy the cheapest one you can find. BUT, if you want an engine that you can drop into your car and start right up you need to get one from someone that knows the engine and has cared for it. Sure, it costs a bit more, but you will get what you pay for.
#6
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
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i got a 94 motor and trans complete for $250 out of a wreck. I sold both cheap when I moved x-country. It was allegedly good and I might have run it as-is with the lower compression but I was also considering new rods and pistons and an overbore to make it bulletproof. Didn't plan on using the head.
basically if you dont like the price, wait for a better opportunity for you.
basically if you dont like the price, wait for a better opportunity for you.
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