1.8 diff, RX7 clutch LSD, RX7 housing, MMR bushings
#1
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From: Hanover, MA
1.8 diff, RX7 clutch LSD, RX7 housing, MMR bushings
While cleaning out the garage I noticed I have enough parts to put together another diff. For sale is an open 1.8L differential. I believe it came out of a 1999 and has 4.11 gears with 60k on it. Some light surface rust on one bearing cap and a few ring gear teeth. Nothing major should wipe off with some WD-40.
It comes with a 1987 RX7 aluminum housing and clutch type LSD. LSD could use a rebuild or a shim. It has about 90k on it and when I place 2 stub shafts in I can turn them the opposite direction by hand (Note, this is just the diff. It still needs to be installed in the open 1.8L carrier). Housing has had the bushings removed and the new MMR ones are still in the box.
$450 plus shipping
Parts located in Hingham, MA
It comes with a 1987 RX7 aluminum housing and clutch type LSD. LSD could use a rebuild or a shim. It has about 90k on it and when I place 2 stub shafts in I can turn them the opposite direction by hand (Note, this is just the diff. It still needs to be installed in the open 1.8L carrier). Housing has had the bushings removed and the new MMR ones are still in the box.
$450 plus shipping
Parts located in Hingham, MA
Last edited by Pseudosport; 08-11-2009 at 02:16 AM.
#4
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From: Hanover, MA
I'm currently running this exact same setup in my car. If you swap out the housing bushings it will bolt right into a Miata. Reason is the bolt hole diameter is different between Miata and RX7. Casting might be a little thicker too on the part that goes from housing to bushing but I'm not 100% sure.
http://www.solomiata.com/Drivetrain.html
edit: Forgot I had this pic. In the back you can see a broken Miata housing. The 2 in the front are both 1987 RX7 housings. You can see there is a slight difference in appearance between the two.
http://www.solomiata.com/Drivetrain.html
edit: Forgot I had this pic. In the back you can see a broken Miata housing. The 2 in the front are both 1987 RX7 housings. You can see there is a slight difference in appearance between the two.
Last edited by Pseudosport; 08-08-2009 at 03:27 AM.
#8
The bolt pattern is the same. I have an FC housing in my car right now - it's a bit stronger than the Miata housing.
#10
Can someone please real explain in "talking to a stupid person" terms how one can use this rear end with a 2003 that currently has a torson?
Would I need a new open diff? Would I need new axles? Driveshaft? Help understanding would be appreciated.
Would I need a new open diff? Would I need new axles? Driveshaft? Help understanding would be appreciated.
#11
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From: Hanover, MA
All you would need is the clutch type limited slip unit it’s self and RX-7 C-clips for the axles. You can keep your axles, driveshaft, and differential assembly.
Remove diff assemble, separate aluminum housing from cast iron carrier, check ring gear back lash, unbolt bearing retainer caps, pull out torsen and ring gear assembly, unbolt ring gear from Torsen, install ring gear on RX-7 limited slip, install ring gear and LSD into housing, set back lash and bearing preload, reassemble diff and aluminum housing, install c-clips on axles, put diff back into car.
Something like that.
Remove diff assemble, separate aluminum housing from cast iron carrier, check ring gear back lash, unbolt bearing retainer caps, pull out torsen and ring gear assembly, unbolt ring gear from Torsen, install ring gear on RX-7 limited slip, install ring gear and LSD into housing, set back lash and bearing preload, reassemble diff and aluminum housing, install c-clips on axles, put diff back into car.
Something like that.
#13
While cleaning out the garage I noticed I have enough parts to put together another diff. For sale is an open 1.8L differential. I believe it came out of a 1999 and has 4.11 gears with 60k on it. Some light surface rust on one bearing cap and a few ring gear teeth. Nothing major should wipe off with some WD-40.
If it's really a 4.1 assembly, then it came from a manual NA8. You can count the teeth on the gears to figure out the ratio.
#15
All you would need is the clutch type limited slip unit it’s self and RX-7 C-clips for the axles. You can keep your axles, driveshaft, and differential assembly.
Remove diff assemble, separate aluminum housing from cast iron carrier, check ring gear back lash, unbolt bearing retainer caps, pull out torsen and ring gear assembly, unbolt ring gear from Torsen, install ring gear on RX-7 limited slip, install ring gear and LSD into housing, set back lash and bearing preload, reassemble diff and aluminum housing, install c-clips on axles, put diff back into car.
Something like that.
Remove diff assemble, separate aluminum housing from cast iron carrier, check ring gear back lash, unbolt bearing retainer caps, pull out torsen and ring gear assembly, unbolt ring gear from Torsen, install ring gear on RX-7 limited slip, install ring gear and LSD into housing, set back lash and bearing preload, reassemble diff and aluminum housing, install c-clips on axles, put diff back into car.
Something like that.
#16
You can get them through Mazda.. I know there is a write up about using this diff somewhere with the part numbers for the C-Clips. I got mine for like 20$ or something, they are pretty cheap.
#18
RX7 Circlips PN is (M005-27-421 $1.95)
Axle Seals also recommended (MA02-27-238A $5.95)
Axle Seals also recommended (MA02-27-238A $5.95)