W/I on superchagers?...
#1
W/I on superchagers?...
It's too late now that I've sold my supercharged '94, but where would you install the nozzle for the supercharger kits on Miatas? From what I've seen the nozzle should be mounted before the throttle body. but with the throttle body mounted before the superchager, i imagine that wouldn't do much... Can the W/I be installed in the throttle body dummy plate (speaking of the JRSC kits)
I also ask because a friend has a JRSC on her 90 and it's in need of some cooling/help from pinging.
I also ask because a friend has a JRSC on her 90 and it's in need of some cooling/help from pinging.
#2
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You could install it pre charger or right after the charger discharge. I have sprayed through an Eaton MP62 before and it worked fine. Its really up to you but either way water injection will most likely completely cure the pinging while letter her pick up some additional power as well.
#12
It really is hard to say because I've been testing the PC Pro at the same time. I couldn't say what was more beneficial - WI or the PC Pro. Also, the weather has been quite cool here so that's another factor that has changed.
Theoretically I should be able to run the same pulley (115mm) as I'm running now even through the summer, but I really don;t think so. From my limited experience in Phoenix (one summer so far), the engine/coolant temps have just as much if not more to do with pinging than the intake air temp. What I mean is that at 210F or so, even at 60F ambient temp, I still get "some" pinging. I'm running a 180F thermostat now and though I have a 160F TStat, I doubt if that is going to really help the coolant temps when I encounter traffic.
I MAY get one of the Adjustable Fan Controllers from BAker Electronics, but they need some voltage measurements from a Miata that I just don't know how to do in order to calibrate it for the Miata.
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7erz1/id1.html#fdrv
Theoretically I should be able to run the same pulley (115mm) as I'm running now even through the summer, but I really don;t think so. From my limited experience in Phoenix (one summer so far), the engine/coolant temps have just as much if not more to do with pinging than the intake air temp. What I mean is that at 210F or so, even at 60F ambient temp, I still get "some" pinging. I'm running a 180F thermostat now and though I have a 160F TStat, I doubt if that is going to really help the coolant temps when I encounter traffic.
I MAY get one of the Adjustable Fan Controllers from BAker Electronics, but they need some voltage measurements from a Miata that I just don't know how to do in order to calibrate it for the Miata.
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7erz1/id1.html#fdrv
#13
I am going individual runner using the devils own kit with and 4 aquamist nozzles and a highspeed valve all mapped through my emanage blue. This way it ENSURES that every cylinder is getting an equal and even amount of water to no cylinder (in theory) runs hotter than any other.
Makes more a much more efficient way of doing things. Once done, I should be able to ADD timing on boost making Lee a very happy man
Makes more a much more efficient way of doing things. Once done, I should be able to ADD timing on boost making Lee a very happy man
#15
I am going individual runner using the devils own kit with and 4 aquamist nozzles and a highspeed valve all mapped through my emanage blue. This way it ENSURES that every cylinder is getting an equal and even amount of water to no cylinder (in theory) runs hotter than any other.
Makes more a much more efficient way of doing things. Once done, I should be able to ADD timing on boost making Lee a very happy man
Makes more a much more efficient way of doing things. Once done, I should be able to ADD timing on boost making Lee a very happy man
#17
a spec of dirt that you miss falling in while filling up the tank can ruin your day trust me maybe not now maybe not tomorow but that dirt has freinds and eventualy they get together for a filter part. In my opinion your setup wont give the WI enough time to do its job correctly but i could be wrong let us know how it turns out.
#18
I just found out that the nozzle I've been using is a 1.0mm. The correct nozzle according to Aquamist and my dismal math (4x240cc + 1x550cc (x15%) should be around a 0.4mm nozzle. Hmm.
I realized this when I ordered what I thought was a bigger nozzle (0.6mm) and it was actually SMALLER than what I had. FYI, Aquamist nozzles have a color band at the base, but the 1.0mm nozzle is black and was faded to almost grey.
The 0.6mm is BLUE and easy to see. Anyway, I swapped the 0.6mm in place of the 1.0mm and used the same map so let's see what that does.
I realized this when I ordered what I thought was a bigger nozzle (0.6mm) and it was actually SMALLER than what I had. FYI, Aquamist nozzles have a color band at the base, but the 1.0mm nozzle is black and was faded to almost grey.
The 0.6mm is BLUE and easy to see. Anyway, I swapped the 0.6mm in place of the 1.0mm and used the same map so let's see what that does.
#19
my nozzles will be 0.3mm
As i said from the other thread - the main aim of the WI setup that i will be running will be to cool the cylinder walls (amoung a coupla other benefits) meaning it will lower EGT's and so I can run a bit leaner for more power.
Its a tried and tested setup - advocated by a renouned 5 garage in the country and a few other members of a forum i frequent.
As i said from the other thread - the main aim of the WI setup that i will be running will be to cool the cylinder walls (amoung a coupla other benefits) meaning it will lower EGT's and so I can run a bit leaner for more power.
Its a tried and tested setup - advocated by a renouned 5 garage in the country and a few other members of a forum i frequent.