Port WI build thread
#61
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BTW I also asked that same friend of mine if he knew of any good papers on WI, perhaps published in SAE or the like. He said there is not much there since for the most part the OEM Engineers have not been playing with it, and neither has the racing community. Plus in racing if someone finds a performance advantage they are usually motivated NOT to publish it for obvious reasons. That is why a lot of the WI information is from the WW-II era piston engine performance development like the article that Joe linked to. I suspect that the information was closely guarded during the war, but was released once everyone switched over to jet engines and it did not matter much anymore anyway.
#66
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No I think that is your name? Seriously, what is the basis for the assumption that the manifold is going to be a problem? I'll wager that my guy knows more about manifold design than most of us here. So his assessment that it is OK carries more weight than the assessment that it is not OK, at least until someone comes up with something better than changing the stock configuration = doom and gloom.
So, in the mean time, let's keep the manifold aspect of this out of the discussion unless it relates to the WI.
So, in the mean time, let's keep the manifold aspect of this out of the discussion unless it relates to the WI.
#68
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Good news on the manifold. I'd just go for it, despite the naysayers.
I forget what you're using for knock protection...consider trying Jeff's new device?
EDIT: OK nevermind, found the thread assuming you mean this one:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t41877/
Yep I already did something like that a while back using a cheap radio shack amplifier.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t22322/
I can either listen in on its speaker, or I send the output to one of my stereo inputs, where I can apply 16 band equalization. Boosting the upper midrange frequencies seems to make it easier to hear knock. In fact, I installed two knock sensors on the motor. One for the Adaptronic, and one for the electronic det can. That way the input impedances do not interfere with each other.
On the one-way(check) valve switch...you've got the right idea, I've just yet to find one in 12V. Tried Grainger and McMaster...need to look around more. If we find one I think I'm going to order 20 of them as they could be applied to ANY setup. You'd just need 4, and a lot of wiring, for yours.
Last edited by ZX-Tex; 02-03-2010 at 01:19 PM.
#69
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Here is a flow switch from Omega that would work though the price point is too high
Liquid Micro-Flow Switches
Liquid Micro-Flow Switches
#71
Re: knock - the miata's main knocks frequency is 13 kHz in my testing. However I recorded knock off-idle. If someone has knock recordings under heavy load I would like to analyze those waveforms.
I posted a 2nd order bandpass filter schematic centered at 13 kHz.
What does Jeff's circuit look like?
I posted a 2nd order bandpass filter schematic centered at 13 kHz.
What does Jeff's circuit look like?
#73
Do they make an electronic check valve? Basically a valve that closes or opens a circuit when it's activated? I would think you could tie this in with the PWM so that anytime the PWM is active, it would make sure the check valves are opening. If they aren't opening, then the nozzle is clogged causing a high back pressure. I would think that would be much simpler and cheaper than a flow meter (assuming it exists).
#74
Correct. I left filtering out of the mix due to the fact that I'm trying to keep cost low and the price of small batches of custom made PCBs is a bit prohibitive. As an "entry level" knock detection device, an amp works suitably well. Worlds better than not having anything at all, but not as nice as a phormula or a gizzmo.
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Do they make an electronic check valve? Basically a valve that closes or opens a circuit when it's activated? I would think you could tie this in with the PWM so that anytime the PWM is active, it would make sure the check valves are opening. If they aren't opening, then the nozzle is clogged causing a high back pressure. I would think that would be much simpler and cheaper than a flow meter (assuming it exists).
#76
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Correct. I left filtering out of the mix due to the fact that I'm trying to keep cost low and the price of small batches of custom made PCBs is a bit prohibitive. As an "entry level" knock detection device, an amp works suitably well. Worlds better than not having anything at all, but not as nice as a phormula or a gizzmo.
#77
I'm thinking of a contact-based ball type one-way valve that simply says "hey dummy, there's no flow here" or not. We don't care so much about knowing the actual flow rate, as that's all calculated ahead of time, and dependable as long as there are no busted lines or clogged nozzles.
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There are things like paddle switches but they are too large, at least the ones I have seen. That device is not quite a paddle wheel flow meter in that it does not measure flow rate. It just uses the movement of the wheel to trip a switch. I agree it is still too expensive though. I threw it out there as more of an 'FYI' than a 'here is something'.
I'll see if I can find something else. There are so many practical minded geniuses where I work that somebody may know of something offhand that would do the job. I get a lot of those "Oh yeah I know just what you need. Go here and get this..." eureka moments courtesy of my colleagues. The mechanical requirements are so simple there has to be something cheap out there somewhere.
For the PWM variable flow usage, I would basically have to set it at the lower flow threshold so that when I am running at 20% DC (or whatever the minimum flow rate for good atomization is) it will let me know if I have an obstruction. It would basically be a necessary but not sufficient indicator of proper flow. Still very useful though.
I'll see if I can find something else. There are so many practical minded geniuses where I work that somebody may know of something offhand that would do the job. I get a lot of those "Oh yeah I know just what you need. Go here and get this..." eureka moments courtesy of my colleagues. The mechanical requirements are so simple there has to be something cheap out there somewhere.
For the PWM variable flow usage, I would basically have to set it at the lower flow threshold so that when I am running at 20% DC (or whatever the minimum flow rate for good atomization is) it will let me know if I have an obstruction. It would basically be a necessary but not sufficient indicator of proper flow. Still very useful though.
Last edited by ZX-Tex; 02-04-2010 at 12:25 PM.
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HOWEVER, I'd love to see ZX do a test on his system, while it's still out of the car, where he drives the HSV at various duty cycles at its intended operating frequency, and makes two observations: First, does the volume of water actually emitted match the predicted flow based on the PWM table, and second, is the atomization quality consistent even at low flow rates? If both of these tests return true, then party on. If not, then I'd make the case for re-testing withrigid metallic tubing and compression fittings.
Assuming Aquamist uses the same polypropylene(polyethylene?poly-something) hose that everyone else uses I doubt it expands outward much at all.
(...)
The reason water continues to come out is because the water in the hose after the valve will drain out from suction and/or gravity, pressure equalizing to atmospheric...
(...)
The reason water continues to come out is because the water in the hose after the valve will drain out from suction and/or gravity, pressure equalizing to atmospheric...
I did this test on the bench with everything level, so there's no vacuum or gravity at work. And it wasn't just a few drips- the nozzle was very clearly spraying after the pump was shut off. You nailed it when you guessed "pressure equalizing to atmospheric", however you need to figure out the reason that there was any pressure to equalize. If the tubing was in fact non-expandable, then as soon as the pump shut off there's be no more pressure to equalize. Water is non-compressible, at least, not at the pressures we're working at. The reason there was pressure was that the tubing was expansing slightly and acting as a pressure reservoir. Someday I'll measure it with a micrometer.
Oh, and the tubing is nylon.
BTW I also asked that same friend of mine if he knew of any good papers on WI, perhaps published in SAE or the like. (...) I suspect that the information was closely guarded during the war, but was released once everyone switched over to jet engines and it did not matter much anymore anyway.
Like I said, I've got a whole library of this stuff, I've just been too damn lazy to collate it and publish. One of these years...
#80
I did this test on the bench with everything level, so there's no vacuum or gravity at work. And it wasn't just a few drips- the nozzle was very clearly spraying after the pump was shut off. You nailed it when you guessed "pressure equalizing to atmospheric", however you need to figure out the reason that there was any pressure to equalize. If the tubing was in fact non-expandable, then as soon as the pump shut off there's be no more pressure to equalize. Water is non-compressible, at least, not at the pressures we're working at. The reason there was pressure was that the tubing was expansing slightly and acting as a pressure reservoir. Someday I'll measure it with a micrometer.
A true HSV that is like a fuel injector would be able to cycle around 200Hz. Do you think that the pressure drop over the maximum 5ms time period until the next cycle is that significant? My guess is that it is not.