Just a word of advise for other cheap bastards like me....

Being that I am running a SC and my WI nozzle is in the intake, post TB, I need a check valve. Well I was a cheap bastard and refused to pay $30 for a check valve and ordered one through McMaster-Carr. I thought I was getting a killer deal for $6.

Well I fired the car up yesterday and watched the fluid in my tank drop as my car spewed water out the tailpipe. Now this is with my car idling. Obviously the check valve was not working.

My problem was that I order a check valve with a cracking pressure of 0.5psi. With 10ish psi of vacuum, the check valve was open all the time.

Moral to the story...

If you are specing a check valve, be sure to spec one with a cracking pressure of 15-20 psi.

I am going to do some calling around today and see if any of the local hydraulic stores have one in stock. Needless to say, my tuning session last night was cut short. I could tune sub 100kpa, but once I ran into boost a few times, I saw intake temps in the 230*F range. A little hot!

 

I went one better and just got a solenoid and wired it with the pump, pump on valve open, pump off valve closed.

It was $50 though

 

Chris,
I would have liked to use a solenoid valve, but being that I am using a progressive controller, I have no way to control it.

If I had a on/off system, it would have been great. I ended up buying a check valve from devil's own. A check valve with that high of a cracking pressure is pretty uncommon. I tried to find something locally and nobody had anything close.

 

I have one of the older style DO checkvalves you can have for $5 shipped if you need it.

 

I appreciate it, but I ordered one earlier this week from DO. It was a little bit of a fiasco getting it here, but it finally arrived yesterday.