Another DevilsOwn system installed and operating.
#1
Thread Starter
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 33,556
Total Cats: 6,933
From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Another DevilsOwn system installed and operating.
Well, I’m about a month late with this, but I finally got the DevilsOwn system installed and working. Vacation, smog check, unrelated repairs...
I decided for the moment to use the stock washer bottle and see how that works out. You can see from the pictures that I put the 90 degree fitting just at the rear inner corner. For reference, those threaded fittings are the A/C evaporator pipes sticking out through the firewall. Still haven’t gotten around to removing that…
The 3GPH nozzle is installed in my post-intercooler up-pipe, right before the throttle body. That pipe is only 18ga steel, but I was able to tap it with a 1/8NPT tap such that the nozzle screwed into it nicely without the need for the steel/rubber washer. Some red loctite ought to hold it steady. Sharp eyes will notice the fancy brass check valve hanging just below the nozzle in the installed shot. After seeing the plastic one that came with the kit I decided to splurge for the upgrade.
Mounting the pump was the biggest challenge. I didn’t want it in the trunk, and yet there’s just no room under the hood. It finally ended up in the front-right wheel well, mounted behind the bumper. There’s just enough metal there that I was able to fabricate a mounting plate to fit. The two left side screws go through the pump bracket, through the plate, and into the chassis. Two more sheet metal screws behind the pump secure the plate to the car, and then the two right holes in the pump bracket are attached only to the plate with machine screws and nuts. I guess it’s theoretically vulnerable to damage in this location, but we’ll have to wait and see.
The controller is a beautiful piece of hardware. I made that panel below the radio about a year ago to hold the oil temp gauge. Since then it had sprouted a garage door opener, a 1/8” power outlet for my GPS, and a switch to toggle the A/C fan. Had this big empty space on it exactly the shape and size of the controller, so that’s where it went.
I mounted a fuse and relay in the back next to the battery, and connected it directly to the battery + terminal (actually, I hi-jacked the old power antenna main wire, which in turn runs direct to the battery.) Then I ran a new 16ga wire from it forward along the tunnel to power the controller. The relay is switched by power fed back across what would normally be the power antenna control wire, which comes from the radio harness in the dash. The lower toggle switch on the panel controls the power to the relay, so I can switch the system on and off.
Current mixture is about 30% methanol (VP M1 racing fuel) 70% distilled water, and two drops of blue food coloring.
Initial impressions? Too early to tell. I just installed a new MBC so at the moment I’m only up to about 8PSI, and since the EMU fuel maps still aren’t perfect the timing is retarded a bit more than it needs to be. One thing’s for sure- the rate of water consumption is higher than I’d expected. The quick 5 minute drive to work (during which I was only in boost a few times) drained the stock washer bottle from completely full down to the seam where the neck transitions out to the main body of the tank. The system was turned off on the way home (since I was A/F Autotuning) but I’m wondering whether I need to think about finding a spot for a bigger tank. Maybe that spare tire will have to go after all...
At any rate, there you have it. Another satisfied customer.
I decided for the moment to use the stock washer bottle and see how that works out. You can see from the pictures that I put the 90 degree fitting just at the rear inner corner. For reference, those threaded fittings are the A/C evaporator pipes sticking out through the firewall. Still haven’t gotten around to removing that…
The 3GPH nozzle is installed in my post-intercooler up-pipe, right before the throttle body. That pipe is only 18ga steel, but I was able to tap it with a 1/8NPT tap such that the nozzle screwed into it nicely without the need for the steel/rubber washer. Some red loctite ought to hold it steady. Sharp eyes will notice the fancy brass check valve hanging just below the nozzle in the installed shot. After seeing the plastic one that came with the kit I decided to splurge for the upgrade.
Mounting the pump was the biggest challenge. I didn’t want it in the trunk, and yet there’s just no room under the hood. It finally ended up in the front-right wheel well, mounted behind the bumper. There’s just enough metal there that I was able to fabricate a mounting plate to fit. The two left side screws go through the pump bracket, through the plate, and into the chassis. Two more sheet metal screws behind the pump secure the plate to the car, and then the two right holes in the pump bracket are attached only to the plate with machine screws and nuts. I guess it’s theoretically vulnerable to damage in this location, but we’ll have to wait and see.
The controller is a beautiful piece of hardware. I made that panel below the radio about a year ago to hold the oil temp gauge. Since then it had sprouted a garage door opener, a 1/8” power outlet for my GPS, and a switch to toggle the A/C fan. Had this big empty space on it exactly the shape and size of the controller, so that’s where it went.
I mounted a fuse and relay in the back next to the battery, and connected it directly to the battery + terminal (actually, I hi-jacked the old power antenna main wire, which in turn runs direct to the battery.) Then I ran a new 16ga wire from it forward along the tunnel to power the controller. The relay is switched by power fed back across what would normally be the power antenna control wire, which comes from the radio harness in the dash. The lower toggle switch on the panel controls the power to the relay, so I can switch the system on and off.
Current mixture is about 30% methanol (VP M1 racing fuel) 70% distilled water, and two drops of blue food coloring.
Initial impressions? Too early to tell. I just installed a new MBC so at the moment I’m only up to about 8PSI, and since the EMU fuel maps still aren’t perfect the timing is retarded a bit more than it needs to be. One thing’s for sure- the rate of water consumption is higher than I’d expected. The quick 5 minute drive to work (during which I was only in boost a few times) drained the stock washer bottle from completely full down to the seam where the neck transitions out to the main body of the tank. The system was turned off on the way home (since I was A/F Autotuning) but I’m wondering whether I need to think about finding a spot for a bigger tank. Maybe that spare tire will have to go after all...
At any rate, there you have it. Another satisfied customer.
#10
Thread Starter
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 33,556
Total Cats: 6,933
From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Yes, this is the DO Progressive Universal kit, sourced from WideOpenTuning. The only exception is that I replaced the plastic check valve with the optional brass one. (Got the one with press-in tube connectors on both ends)
It's going to be hard for me to give you guys exact info regarding gains, since I don't have a "before" dyno plot. I'm still fiddling with the fuel maps on the EMU, I really need to spend some dyno time ironing those out. When I do that, I'll probably culminate with a HP pull, so we'll have our answer then.
From an anecdotal side, I'll say this. This morning I turned the new MBC up to about ten PSI. (Previously, I'd gotten my old one up to about 13 before deciding to replace it). For the first time ever I managed to get my big ole' 215/45/15's spinning without dumping the clutch- about halfway through first, they simply broke loose. This is with a 4.10 Torsen rear end, not the stock 4.30. And I still haven't put any more timing back in.
<Edit, I forgot that I finally have an excuse to use this smiley in a message:>
Thanks for the compliments on the install. I'm an engineer by trade, so I like things to be neat and organized. Which is part of the reason it took so damn long.
It's going to be hard for me to give you guys exact info regarding gains, since I don't have a "before" dyno plot. I'm still fiddling with the fuel maps on the EMU, I really need to spend some dyno time ironing those out. When I do that, I'll probably culminate with a HP pull, so we'll have our answer then.
From an anecdotal side, I'll say this. This morning I turned the new MBC up to about ten PSI. (Previously, I'd gotten my old one up to about 13 before deciding to replace it). For the first time ever I managed to get my big ole' 215/45/15's spinning without dumping the clutch- about halfway through first, they simply broke loose. This is with a 4.10 Torsen rear end, not the stock 4.30. And I still haven't put any more timing back in.
<Edit, I forgot that I finally have an excuse to use this smiley in a message:>
Thanks for the compliments on the install. I'm an engineer by trade, so I like things to be neat and organized. Which is part of the reason it took so damn long.
Last edited by Joe Perez; 01-24-2007 at 05:09 PM.
#13
Thread Starter
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 33,556
Total Cats: 6,933
From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
It's not a monitor, it's actually complete Tablet PC- basically a laptop without a keyboard, using a touchscreen. It's a Fujitsu Stylistic 3400, which is a Pentium 3 machine running Windows 2000. It's hooked up to the eManage Ultimate, and I use it for tuning. We had a brief discussion abot it over in this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=6602 where Rob McElwee posted some pictures of his setup, which is very similar. I'll try to get something posted in the next few days, probably over on the eManage forum.
#14
I've been meaning to do a seperate post on that, since a few people have already asked.
It's not a monitor, it's actually complete Tablet PC- basically a laptop without a keyboard, using a touchscreen. It's a Fujitsu Stylistic 3400, which is a Pentium 3 machine running Windows 2000. It's hooked up to the eManage Ultimate, and I use it for tuning. We had a brief discussion abot it over in this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=6602 where Rob McElwee posted some pictures of his setup, which is very similar. I'll try to get something posted in the next few days, probably over on the eManage forum.
It's not a monitor, it's actually complete Tablet PC- basically a laptop without a keyboard, using a touchscreen. It's a Fujitsu Stylistic 3400, which is a Pentium 3 machine running Windows 2000. It's hooked up to the eManage Ultimate, and I use it for tuning. We had a brief discussion abot it over in this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=6602 where Rob McElwee posted some pictures of his setup, which is very similar. I'll try to get something posted in the next few days, probably over on the eManage forum.
#16
I checked ebay and it looks like 100-200 dollars for one of these things. How well does it work...I would like to mount one of these in my car for when I get the EMU. I could leave it in the car, so that I dont have to carry a laptop around with me whenever I want to do some tuning.
edit: yes, please do a writeup on it...you are good at those writeups
edit: yes, please do a writeup on it...you are good at those writeups
#20
Thread Starter
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 33,556
Total Cats: 6,933
From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Sheesh, I'm getting more questions about that thing than the WI system. Maybe we need a seperate "In-Car PC" forum.