Why am I Afraid to Buy a Megasquirt???
#1
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Why am I Afraid to Buy a Megasquirt???
I have a Greddy Turbo'ed 1.6L with all the bandaids right now. Bipes, o2 Clamp, Vortech FMU, 99 Injectors, MBC at 7psi, and an FMIC. I have the extra cash to buy a Megasquirt setup from Braineack but for some reason i feel really intimidated buy it. With the extra cash i would make selling my bandaids i would buy an LC1 to watch my afr's, however i never really tuned a full standalone. Im sure i could contact a couple guys from a local NJ forum but I just dont know if I'm ready to hear my engine go pop. Anyone want to help me get over my fears?
#5
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I just love the flexibility of plugging up any size injectors, no afm for simpler intake ducting, and the launch controller (Rice Bling Factor). Did you start off tuning a Turbo or NA miata?
#6
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Every time i read a thread on tuning and stuff they make it seem like one wrong move and your engine is toast. I have another motor lying around and the car isn't my Daily driver but i don't want to have to tear out a motor that i would have gotten plenty more miles on if i would have stayed with my band aided setup.
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Throw Jerry's basemap in there and get an LC-1 hooked up and be careful. If you make one BIG mistake, it could toast your motor, but we've all heard a little ping here and there and made it out alive. These aren't rotaries. Start at wastegate can pressure, get the overboost fuel cut working so you don't get any boost spikes, and feel your way through it as you go.
Or shell out and have someone professionally tune it. There is something to be said for the absolute peace of mind.
Or shell out and have someone professionally tune it. There is something to be said for the absolute peace of mind.
#9
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I'm was kinda intimidated by ms aswell but after tuning my emb with a narrowband greddy sensor with the wife, its seems easy enough with the support here.
Used the narrowband to get afr round 11:1 then once I got a wideband pulled all that fuel out.
Start by over fueling pull alot of timing (I was pulling a degree per psi at first) then slowly pulling fuel and putting the timing back in. Then I was confident enough and was craving more power so I add boost and did it all again.
Used the narrowband to get afr round 11:1 then once I got a wideband pulled all that fuel out.
Start by over fueling pull alot of timing (I was pulling a degree per psi at first) then slowly pulling fuel and putting the timing back in. Then I was confident enough and was craving more power so I add boost and did it all again.
#10
Every time i read a thread on tuning and stuff they make it seem like one wrong move and your engine is toast. I have another motor lying around and the car isn't my Daily driver but i don't want to have to tear out a motor that i would have gotten plenty more miles on if i would have stayed with my band aided setup.
So come join the dark side.
#12
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Throw Jerry's basemap in there and get an LC-1 hooked up and be careful. If you make one BIG mistake, it could toast your motor, but we've all heard a little ping here and there and made it out alive. These aren't rotaries. Start at wastegate can pressure, get the overboost fuel cut working so you don't get any boost spikes, and feel your way through it as you go.
Or shell out and have someone professionally tune it. There is something to be said for the absolute peace of mind.
Or shell out and have someone professionally tune it. There is something to be said for the absolute peace of mind.
Mike, dont worry. im sure paul would be willing to help you out with the tuning. and i should be putting one in in about a month and once i get the hang of it all ill be more than happy to help ya too.
I guess I'm in, Thanks guys! I'll contact Braineack shortly. So without starting a small war... LC-1 or Uego?
#14
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Well the uego goes for about $220 with a viewable gauge. The lc-1 is $190 shipped but it has no gauge so the only time I could see my afr is when I have a laptop handy. I was leaning towards the uego until I read it can only accuratly read down to 11.1 afr which isn't quite low enough for my liking on a turbo car.
#15
Well the uego goes for about $220 with a viewable gauge. The lc-1 is $190 shipped but it has no gauge so the only time I could see my afr is when I have a laptop handy. I was leaning towards the uego until I read it can only accuratly read down to 11.1 afr which isn't quite low enough for my liking on a turbo car.
http://www.wbo2.com/2j/default.htm
Leaner than 11.1:1 AFR? Are you trying to flood that engine?
#16
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Check this one too - a bit more expensive but it is quite nice:
http://www.wbo2.com/2j/default.htm
Leaner than 11.1:1 AFR? Are you trying to flood that engine?
http://www.wbo2.com/2j/default.htm
Leaner than 11.1:1 AFR? Are you trying to flood that engine?
#17
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Check this one too - a bit more expensive but it is quite nice:
http://www.wbo2.com/2j/default.htm
Leaner than 11.1:1 AFR? Are you trying to flood that engine?
http://www.wbo2.com/2j/default.htm
Leaner than 11.1:1 AFR? Are you trying to flood that engine?
I'd go LC-1 myself. Check the top of this subforum, Wideopentuning sells LC1s for 189 shipped! Hes HELLA fast on shipping too!
#19
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In reality, the LC-1 is most valuable when it's hooked up to the MS and you're datalogging it. Beyond that, it's just a monitoring tool, and to be honest, it's not totally necessary. If I were doing a budget build, the DB gauge would be one of the first things to go.
#20
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driftin8ez but tuningMSis.
and as artie said i would be willing to help on that end if you needed it.
i run the AEM UEGO and as far as it not being accurate below 11.1 WTF does it matter? 10.9..11.1, you take fuel out either way till you get it to a minimum of 12 anyway.
and as artie said i would be willing to help on that end if you needed it.
i run the AEM UEGO and as far as it not being accurate below 11.1 WTF does it matter? 10.9..11.1, you take fuel out either way till you get it to a minimum of 12 anyway.