Where can I pull power so the wideband will not reset every time I crank the car?
#1
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Right now im pulling power from the little blue plug under the hood on the drivers side.
Every time iIstart the car, the wideband resets, showing my AFR as 8 for a few seconds as it warms up when im trying to figure out the afr when cranking
Every time iIstart the car, the wideband resets, showing my AFR as 8 for a few seconds as it warms up when im trying to figure out the afr when cranking
#5
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I think I used the fuel pump lead to switch my relay....heres what it looks like...the blue 8ga wire is coming from the battery and then goes to one side of the distribution block (yes I know its not attached in this pic). The other side of the distribution block I used for my grounds. Just to give you an idea
DSC03258.jpg?t=1264127080
#7
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Is it an LC-1?
In Logworks you can see text info on the guage as you crank such as 'warm up', [low voltage' etc. The LC-1 requires a min supply voltage of 9v. During cranking, especially if your cranking for excessive periods of time and are trying to dial in cranking PWs you will likely get the error code. Your voltage is probably dropping below the 9v min and the LC-1 throws a heater calibration error as it's trying to warm-up. Mine displays the 'low voltage' message just as the engine catches.
It happens with mine every so often and it's wired to the stock ECU 12v supply - LC-1 error code 4 IIRC.
In Logworks you can see text info on the guage as you crank such as 'warm up', [low voltage' etc. The LC-1 requires a min supply voltage of 9v. During cranking, especially if your cranking for excessive periods of time and are trying to dial in cranking PWs you will likely get the error code. Your voltage is probably dropping below the 9v min and the LC-1 throws a heater calibration error as it's trying to warm-up. Mine displays the 'low voltage' message just as the engine catches.
It happens with mine every so often and it's wired to the stock ECU 12v supply - LC-1 error code 4 IIRC.
#9
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Absolute best way to wire an LC-1 IMO:
![](https://lh6.ggpht.com/_tMYIeupe-9Q/SdpFc7f8_SI/AAAAAAAAAQA/9H2baaQRujY/s720/PIC-0072.jpg)
Or, if you have a PNP, cut the stock harness and wire it in there (I've done this as well). The ECU gets a nice filtered 12v that is constant through cranking. Also, by wiring in all of the grounds at one point shared by the ECU, it does away with all of those nasty ground offset problems people complain of.
![](https://lh6.ggpht.com/_tMYIeupe-9Q/SdpFc7f8_SI/AAAAAAAAAQA/9H2baaQRujY/s720/PIC-0072.jpg)
Or, if you have a PNP, cut the stock harness and wire it in there (I've done this as well). The ECU gets a nice filtered 12v that is constant through cranking. Also, by wiring in all of the grounds at one point shared by the ECU, it does away with all of those nasty ground offset problems people complain of.
#11
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Just to let you know, the LC-1 will still "reset" because of the low voltage (E-9) and will require reheating again. Sure, not from 0% but it won't work if you plan to check your AFR during cranking.
Jim
Jim
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Not from the ECU. If the LC-1 shorts, it will blow the ECU fuse and the car will stop dead on its tracks. Get power from the main fuse with an extra relay switched on by the ECU, with a 5A fuse.
Jim
Jim
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09-05-2015 08:02 AM