What happened to Frank's Ms3x guides!?
#1
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So like my intro thread states I have been perusing this site for awhile and in that time I have saved numerous links to pages and threads I though would be useful down the road. One of which was Frank's MS3X build guide found at his Westfield site. However, it seems that the page is down. I have tried accessing it several times over the past couple weeks from different PCs and using different browsers but the address is only returning a 404 error. Any body know what the story is on this? Has the page been removed?
http://westfieldmx5.devocht.com/mega...ms3/99-05-ms3/
http://westfieldmx5.devocht.com/mega...ms3/99-05-ms3/
#3
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There was some forum butthurt over westfield MX5 copying useful posts from other sites, or something along those lines. Some little **** thought he was the first person to ever have an original thought, and got upset when it was added to the westfiled site. Apparently he needed to be credited for some little thing till the end of time, probably something that's common sense to 99.9% of the population.
The butthurt was so strong, that he apparently shut down the whole website in protest. I thought it was just European IPs that were blocked, but I can't access it either.
It appears he even botched the webcrawler settings before deleting it, I can't find a cached version of the site even.
The butthurt was so strong, that he apparently shut down the whole website in protest. I thought it was just European IPs that were blocked, but I can't access it either.
It appears he even botched the webcrawler settings before deleting it, I can't find a cached version of the site even.
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Bummer, that page was a great reference! It was nice having it all in one place as opposed to digging through all the threads on here. I've been looking at Oouchi's threads, Freaky Roadster's threads, and a couple others I can't think of off hand and gathering bit by bit.
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I'm working with a 95 with a vvt motor in it. If I recall correctly Frank had directions specific to MS3X builds managing vvt motors. I remeber him using a nitrous channel for vvt because of that channels frequency. Wish I could remember more of that page!
Last edited by herbster89; 10-13-2014 at 12:27 AM.
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First off thanks to Frank and Brain for supplying the info for this writeup. This is a modified copy of the 90-93 writeup that Frank used to host, other years can use this as a general guide. Brain's pinout diagrams can easily be found on Google...
There really isn't anything special in here. I cut out Frank's stuff about fitting the connectors into the ms case. That was really the main difference with his guide. Other than that really he installs everything but the fuel/spark drivers not used with the ms3x.
Everything in this text can be easily found out in public.
If this is out of place feel free to delete this post!
90-97 MS3X
How to build a full plug and play MS3-Extra for a 1.6 or 1.8 NA Miata
Parts needed:
1x MegaSquirt-III w/PCB V3.0 - UnAssembled Kit
1x MegaSquirt-III MS3X Expansion Car
1x GM Open Element IAT Sensor with Pigtail (optional on NA, needed on turbo)
The only transistor on the heatsink is U5 (no mica insulator needed) on the far left. With a near empty heatsink, there’s enough room to install the miata connector inside the case. If needed, it’s ok to drill new holes through the heatsink.
Part 1: MS3 main board assembly
Step 1: transistors
- Q2 (ZTX450)
- Q19 (2N3904)
- Q22, Q23 (ZTX553)
Step 2: resistors
- R1, R6, R44, R48, R53, R54 (10K)
- R2, R9, R10 (1K) + a 1K resistor from R13 left to R45 right
- R3 (51K)
- R4, R7 (2K49)
- R5, R8 (2K2)
- R11, R51 (1M)
- R16, R42, R55 (1K)
- R49, R50 (100K)+ a 100K resistor in R52 pin 1 & 3
- R40 (1R)
- R45, R46 (10K)
- R47 (47K)
- R56 (10K pot) – turn it 12 turns anti-clockwise and then 10½ turns clockwise.
Step 3: diodes
- D9, D10, D11 (1N4001)
- D4 (1N4748)
- D12 (1N4749)
- D13 (1N4742)
- D19 (1N4734)
- D24 (1N4148)
Step 4: capacitors
- C1, C3, C18, C19, C23 (0.1µF)
- C2, C9, C10 (0.22µF)
- C4, C6, C8, C15, C31 (0.001µF)
- C5, C7 (1.0µF)
- C32 (0.01µF)
- C16, C17
- C22
Step 5: coils and fuses
- L1, L2, F1, F2 and MOV1
Step 6: varia
- U2 (map sensor), U7 (LM2904) and the 40-pin socket
Step 7: heatsink
Secure the heatsink by installing U5 with heat paste, no mica insulator, a plastic bolt and the short stand-off.
Step 8: testing
Solder a temporary power wires to DB37 pin 1 (GND) and pin 28 (+12V) and do the tests as described in step 24 of the build manual here.
Step 9: jumpers
- jumper S12C to JS9
- jumper TACHSELECT to VRIN
- jumper VROUT to TSEL
Part 2: MS3X card modification
- desolder the DB37
- turn R11 and R32 about 6 turns anti-clockwise
- turn R11 3½ turns clockwise
- make sure JP3 and JP7 are installed, JP8 should not be fitted
- cut a corner of the MS3X card when necessary (see pictures)
- install the long stand-off next to D16 and put a plastic nut underneath it
Part 3: Wiring
Step 1: flyback diodes
Install a 1N4001 with the banded side to 12V (W/R wire in the ecu connector) and the other side to the idle output of the MS3X (pin 9).
Install a 1N4001 with the banded side to 12V (W/R wire in the ecu connector) and the other side to the fan output of the MS3X (pin 1). I’m using pin 1 / INJ G as the fan output
Install a 1N4001 with the banded side to 12V (W/R wire in the ecu connector) and the other side to the a/c fan output of the MS3X (pin ).
Step 2: Fuel Pump (ONLY for 90-93)
There’s 2 ways to make the fuel pump run:
- method 1: run a wire from the fuel pump output to the LG wire on a black/yellow relay under the steering column
- method 2: jumper pin A (LG) to pin F (R) in the AFM connector
Bring the FP ground signal out on ECU pin 2O and place a jumper at the airflow meter connector from pin A (LG) to pin F (R).You could also just run a wire from 2O directly to the LG wire on the fuel pump relay under the dash.
fuel pump:install a jumper between pin A (LG) and pin F (R) on the airflow meter connector or just connect the 2 wires at the back of the connector.air temp: connecto to pins B and G (the yellow and black wires)
Step 3: Air temp sensor
The air temp sensor has to be connected to pin B (B) and pin G (R/G) of the AFM connector (polarity doesn’t matter).
Step 4: pinouts
1Q – A/C Switch
1J – A/C Relay
2S – Condenser Fan
1L – Main Fan
Part 4: Final adjustment of the VR circuits:
- For the main board, measure the voltage on the upper leg of R54 while turning R56.
- For the MS3X board, measure the voltage on the lower leg of R17 (close to U7) while turning R11.
In both cases, you want to see about 2.5 to 3 volts, which puts you in the middle of the output range of the sensors.
Remarks for the 90-93
If you don't have variable tps, install a 1K resistor on your tps input wire to ground.
The stock 90-93 throttle sensor will not work with the megasquirt. You MUST disconnect the stock 90-93 throttle sensor or it will short out the 5v system and your MS will not work.
There really isn't anything special in here. I cut out Frank's stuff about fitting the connectors into the ms case. That was really the main difference with his guide. Other than that really he installs everything but the fuel/spark drivers not used with the ms3x.
Everything in this text can be easily found out in public.
If this is out of place feel free to delete this post!
90-97 MS3X
How to build a full plug and play MS3-Extra for a 1.6 or 1.8 NA Miata
Parts needed:
1x MegaSquirt-III w/PCB V3.0 - UnAssembled Kit
1x MegaSquirt-III MS3X Expansion Car
1x GM Open Element IAT Sensor with Pigtail (optional on NA, needed on turbo)
The only transistor on the heatsink is U5 (no mica insulator needed) on the far left. With a near empty heatsink, there’s enough room to install the miata connector inside the case. If needed, it’s ok to drill new holes through the heatsink.
Part 1: MS3 main board assembly
Step 1: transistors
- Q2 (ZTX450)
- Q19 (2N3904)
- Q22, Q23 (ZTX553)
Step 2: resistors
- R1, R6, R44, R48, R53, R54 (10K)
- R2, R9, R10 (1K) + a 1K resistor from R13 left to R45 right
- R3 (51K)
- R4, R7 (2K49)
- R5, R8 (2K2)
- R11, R51 (1M)
- R16, R42, R55 (1K)
- R49, R50 (100K)+ a 100K resistor in R52 pin 1 & 3
- R40 (1R)
- R45, R46 (10K)
- R47 (47K)
- R56 (10K pot) – turn it 12 turns anti-clockwise and then 10½ turns clockwise.
Step 3: diodes
- D9, D10, D11 (1N4001)
- D4 (1N4748)
- D12 (1N4749)
- D13 (1N4742)
- D19 (1N4734)
- D24 (1N4148)
Step 4: capacitors
- C1, C3, C18, C19, C23 (0.1µF)
- C2, C9, C10 (0.22µF)
- C4, C6, C8, C15, C31 (0.001µF)
- C5, C7 (1.0µF)
- C32 (0.01µF)
- C16, C17
- C22
Step 5: coils and fuses
- L1, L2, F1, F2 and MOV1
Step 6: varia
- U2 (map sensor), U7 (LM2904) and the 40-pin socket
Step 7: heatsink
Secure the heatsink by installing U5 with heat paste, no mica insulator, a plastic bolt and the short stand-off.
Step 8: testing
Solder a temporary power wires to DB37 pin 1 (GND) and pin 28 (+12V) and do the tests as described in step 24 of the build manual here.
Step 9: jumpers
- jumper S12C to JS9
- jumper TACHSELECT to VRIN
- jumper VROUT to TSEL
Part 2: MS3X card modification
- desolder the DB37
- turn R11 and R32 about 6 turns anti-clockwise
- turn R11 3½ turns clockwise
- make sure JP3 and JP7 are installed, JP8 should not be fitted
- cut a corner of the MS3X card when necessary (see pictures)
- install the long stand-off next to D16 and put a plastic nut underneath it
Part 3: Wiring
Step 1: flyback diodes
Install a 1N4001 with the banded side to 12V (W/R wire in the ecu connector) and the other side to the idle output of the MS3X (pin 9).
Install a 1N4001 with the banded side to 12V (W/R wire in the ecu connector) and the other side to the fan output of the MS3X (pin 1). I’m using pin 1 / INJ G as the fan output
Install a 1N4001 with the banded side to 12V (W/R wire in the ecu connector) and the other side to the a/c fan output of the MS3X (pin ).
Step 2: Fuel Pump (ONLY for 90-93)
There’s 2 ways to make the fuel pump run:
- method 1: run a wire from the fuel pump output to the LG wire on a black/yellow relay under the steering column
- method 2: jumper pin A (LG) to pin F (R) in the AFM connector
Bring the FP ground signal out on ECU pin 2O and place a jumper at the airflow meter connector from pin A (LG) to pin F (R).You could also just run a wire from 2O directly to the LG wire on the fuel pump relay under the dash.
fuel pump:install a jumper between pin A (LG) and pin F (R) on the airflow meter connector or just connect the 2 wires at the back of the connector.air temp: connecto to pins B and G (the yellow and black wires)
Step 3: Air temp sensor
The air temp sensor has to be connected to pin B (B) and pin G (R/G) of the AFM connector (polarity doesn’t matter).
Step 4: pinouts
1Q – A/C Switch
1J – A/C Relay
2S – Condenser Fan
1L – Main Fan
Part 4: Final adjustment of the VR circuits:
- For the main board, measure the voltage on the upper leg of R54 while turning R56.
- For the MS3X board, measure the voltage on the lower leg of R17 (close to U7) while turning R11.
In both cases, you want to see about 2.5 to 3 volts, which puts you in the middle of the output range of the sensors.
Remarks for the 90-93
If you don't have variable tps, install a 1K resistor on your tps input wire to ground.
The stock 90-93 throttle sensor will not work with the megasquirt. You MUST disconnect the stock 90-93 throttle sensor or it will short out the 5v system and your MS will not work.
Last edited by leboeuf; 10-13-2014 at 04:07 PM. Reason: Removed more info specific to Frank's writeup.