Very high RPM after start with ms3 & ms3x
#1
Very high RPM after start with ms3 & ms3x
Hey hairdressers,
Just finished building my MS3 with MS3x for my mk2 1.6 mx-5 with Frank's guide. It starts but runs on very high rpm and very lean (19 afr). I tried lowering the VE table to 35 in the idle zone, but it doesn't seem to help. I am new to this whole ecu tuning scene and I'm learning it pretty fast, but I don't know what to do at the moment. The idle valve works and I tried disconnecting it to see if it's the problem, but it didn't matter at all. I couldn't find a basetune for my car, so I just got myself a 1.8 basetune and changed the injector and engine size.
Wideband is connected as a narrowband at the moment because I'm switching the ecu every time cause I need to daily the car. Once the car will be idling normally, I will resolder it.
I included my log and tune, please point me in the right direction .
Just finished building my MS3 with MS3x for my mk2 1.6 mx-5 with Frank's guide. It starts but runs on very high rpm and very lean (19 afr). I tried lowering the VE table to 35 in the idle zone, but it doesn't seem to help. I am new to this whole ecu tuning scene and I'm learning it pretty fast, but I don't know what to do at the moment. The idle valve works and I tried disconnecting it to see if it's the problem, but it didn't matter at all. I couldn't find a basetune for my car, so I just got myself a 1.8 basetune and changed the injector and engine size.
Wideband is connected as a narrowband at the moment because I'm switching the ecu every time cause I need to daily the car. Once the car will be idling normally, I will resolder it.
I included my log and tune, please point me in the right direction .
Last edited by Alex Naoumov; 09-20-2016 at 10:56 AM.
#2
if youre lean, why would you reduce fuel?
what basetune? Im sure it's not a good one.
you certain you dont have a vacuum leak on your IM? I dont see how youre hit >4000RPM on the idle valve alone -- especially with those idle pwm% numbers (assuming you did the flyback mod to the expander card correctly).
what basetune? Im sure it's not a good one.
you certain you dont have a vacuum leak on your IM? I dont see how youre hit >4000RPM on the idle valve alone -- especially with those idle pwm% numbers (assuming you did the flyback mod to the expander card correctly).
#3
Thanks for your reply !
That's stupid yeah, didn't really think about that...
I can't upload the basetune right now cause I'm on the cellphone, you can see the tune I'm using in my first post.
Car runs fine on stock ecu with a bolt in the vacuum tube to block it, so I doubt there is a leak in the manifold. I didn't install the flyback diode because somebody told me that it is build in the Ms3x already.. Do you think I need to install iit
That's stupid yeah, didn't really think about that...
I can't upload the basetune right now cause I'm on the cellphone, you can see the tune I'm using in my first post.
Car runs fine on stock ecu with a bolt in the vacuum tube to block it, so I doubt there is a leak in the manifold. I didn't install the flyback diode because somebody told me that it is build in the Ms3x already.. Do you think I need to install iit
#5
Yes, I did. I also tested all my outputs with a scope and they all work. Do you think I still need to install that flyback diode? Even if the expander has one built in?
Actually I had some trouble with this part:
I measured around 2.3-2.4v at both points and turning the resistors didn't change much. Tbh I don't think this is the problem.
I didn't check for a vacuum leak, but I only removed the charcoal canister and put my vacuumline on that port that came free and the vacuumline is good and not leaking.
Actually I had some trouble with this part:
Step 2: fine adjustment of the VR circuits:
– For the main board, measure the voltage on the upper leg of R54 while turning R56.
– For the MS3X board, measure the voltage on the lower leg of R17 (close to U7) while turning R11.
In both cases, you want to see about 2.5 to 3 volts at that point, which puts you right in the middle of the actual output range of the sensors.
– For the main board, measure the voltage on the upper leg of R54 while turning R56.
– For the MS3X board, measure the voltage on the lower leg of R17 (close to U7) while turning R11.
In both cases, you want to see about 2.5 to 3 volts at that point, which puts you right in the middle of the actual output range of the sensors.
I didn't check for a vacuum leak, but I only removed the charcoal canister and put my vacuumline on that port that came free and the vacuumline is good and not leaking.
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