Very hard to start when around freezingpoint.
#1
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Hi hope I can get a littel help from you.
I have a NA 1,6 with M45 and DIYPNP. It was running and starting OK in the summer and fall. I'm not driving it daily in the winther, but maybe once a month or just start it a few times durring the winther.
Voltage is ok sence it is connected to a charger. But I have to crank it for very long time before it starts (30 sec or more). And when it starts it sounds like running on 2 cyl. Even if I start it and stop it after 1 minute, its very hard to start again. Once it gets warmer (lets say cooling temp = 20°C) there is no problem at all.
I have been runing on Braineacks setting, and got it tuned (time and fuel) in the fall. I have already tried to add quite a lot fuel, on cold start at low temp. But that have not helped. The temp here is around 0°C.
Hope you can use my msl file, to see the problem. This is the second attemt on starting it, therefore the first 30 sek.cranking time is missing. If any other file or info is needed, please ask for it.
I have a NA 1,6 with M45 and DIYPNP. It was running and starting OK in the summer and fall. I'm not driving it daily in the winther, but maybe once a month or just start it a few times durring the winther.
Voltage is ok sence it is connected to a charger. But I have to crank it for very long time before it starts (30 sec or more). And when it starts it sounds like running on 2 cyl. Even if I start it and stop it after 1 minute, its very hard to start again. Once it gets warmer (lets say cooling temp = 20°C) there is no problem at all.
I have been runing on Braineacks setting, and got it tuned (time and fuel) in the fall. I have already tried to add quite a lot fuel, on cold start at low temp. But that have not helped. The temp here is around 0°C.
Hope you can use my msl file, to see the problem. This is the second attemt on starting it, therefore the first 30 sek.cranking time is missing. If any other file or info is needed, please ask for it.
#2
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I've got my cold start/warmup pretty well sorted. See attached for comparison to yours. Anything that is scaled in percent should transfer over. The cranking settings that are in milliseconds can be looked at for a pattern, but can't be used directly because your injectors will be different than mine.
If you have a wideband, use that to help you. On these cold starts, you should be sitting in the car with your tuning computer to get things right.
If you have a wideband, use that to help you. On these cold starts, you should be sitting in the car with your tuning computer to get things right.
#4
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Thanx, both of you.
I had a look, and saw that I had to make bigger changes than I had tryed.
So a lot more ASE and more (quite more) fuel when cold, seems to solve it.
I also raised the cranking rpm setting, from 210 to 300 (although its cranking around 200), and that also made it start farster. But I realy don't undestand why, only tried it bacause hustler said it. Can you explain why, and what this setting does?
I had a look, and saw that I had to make bigger changes than I had tryed.
So a lot more ASE and more (quite more) fuel when cold, seems to solve it.
I also raised the cranking rpm setting, from 210 to 300 (although its cranking around 200), and that also made it start farster. But I realy don't undestand why, only tried it bacause hustler said it. Can you explain why, and what this setting does?
#5
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Cranking RPM is the RPM below which you are considered to be cranking. If you go above cranking RPM, the MS stops using the cranking table and transitions into ASE and, eventually, warmup. You want to set it to an RPM where you are certain the engine has fired if it goes above. If you set it too close to your actual starter speed, then there is a chance that you'll transition into ASE before the engine has really started.
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