Stock ECU VE table
#25
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that's the whole reasoning behind the massive retard at 5.5K.
there's a correlation. haromony between AFRs, timing and EGTs and whatnot.
If it were me, I'd just copy the entire 5000RPM column across to redline. only retarding in the area where you acutally do have your AFRs set to go richer.
there's a correlation. haromony between AFRs, timing and EGTs and whatnot.
If it were me, I'd just copy the entire 5000RPM column across to redline. only retarding in the area where you acutally do have your AFRs set to go richer.
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Hmm.. I found that my map was more retarded in some of the lower load lower RPM areas.
In theory I should be safe if I match the factory ECU timing if not increase above what they have the timing set to right?
And as far as the 5.5k goes- I rarely hit that area of the map as is. On the freeway at 80 I'm sitting at 3400.
In theory I should be safe if I match the factory ECU timing if not increase above what they have the timing set to right?
And as far as the 5.5k goes- I rarely hit that area of the map as is. On the freeway at 80 I'm sitting at 3400.
#28
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Because a narrow band O2 is darn near an ON-OFF switch that switches at 1 Lambda (~14.7:1 for gasoline). You could never control to an AFR of 10.2 with a narrow band.
OTOH, if the entries other than 14.7 really get used as open-loop mode multipliers, then I can see how it is workable. Seems convoluted though.
Looking at these tables, I see emissions and warranty rather than optimized performance in a lot of areas. Targeting 10:1 AFR at high RPM/high load looks like a kind of "soft" rev limiter (especially considering the "high load" we're talking about is slightly less than atmospheric).
OTOH, if the entries other than 14.7 really get used as open-loop mode multipliers, then I can see how it is workable. Seems convoluted though.
Looking at these tables, I see emissions and warranty rather than optimized performance in a lot of areas. Targeting 10:1 AFR at high RPM/high load looks like a kind of "soft" rev limiter (especially considering the "high load" we're talking about is slightly less than atmospheric).
#31
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Hmm.. I found that my map was more retarded in some of the lower load lower RPM areas.
In theory I should be safe if I match the factory ECU timing if not increase above what they have the timing set to right?
And as far as the 5.5k goes- I rarely hit that area of the map as is. On the freeway at 80 I'm sitting at 3400.
In theory I should be safe if I match the factory ECU timing if not increase above what they have the timing set to right?
And as far as the 5.5k goes- I rarely hit that area of the map as is. On the freeway at 80 I'm sitting at 3400.
#32
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Tons and tons of cars gain a lot of torque, smoothness, and overall drive "better" with the megasquirt maps and proper tuning. There is nothing spectacular at all about the stock ecu fuel and spark maps.
I really don't see why everyone is so interested in this.
OP, If your lowend is not as good as stock it just means its not tuned worth a damn, and you need to get on that instead of trying to waste time converting the stock table for a "starting point". 80% of it, as mentioned already, is warrantte and emissions crap that hurts your performance if anything.
Only thing I'd be interested is seeing how the stock ecu controls idle, since I still haven't mastered a FLAWLESS idle with ms. But looks like some folks (like y8s, Reverant, and others) have shown videos of flawless idle on the ms3x so I'll probably pester them for their idle tuning secrets.
I really don't see why everyone is so interested in this.
OP, If your lowend is not as good as stock it just means its not tuned worth a damn, and you need to get on that instead of trying to waste time converting the stock table for a "starting point". 80% of it, as mentioned already, is warrantte and emissions crap that hurts your performance if anything.
Only thing I'd be interested is seeing how the stock ecu controls idle, since I still haven't mastered a FLAWLESS idle with ms. But looks like some folks (like y8s, Reverant, and others) have shown videos of flawless idle on the ms3x so I'll probably pester them for their idle tuning secrets.
#33
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Tons and tons of cars gain a lot of torque, smoothness, and overall drive "better" with the megasquirt maps and proper tuning. There is nothing spectacular at all about the stock ecu fuel and spark maps.
I really don't see why everyone is so interested in this.
OP, If your lowend is not as good as stock it just means its not tuned worth a damn, and you need to get on that instead of trying to waste time converting the stock table for a "starting point". 80% of it, as mentioned already, is warrantte and emissions crap that hurts your performance if anything.
Only thing I'd be interested is seeing how the stock ecu controls idle, since I still haven't mastered a FLAWLESS idle with ms. But looks like some folks (like y8s, Reverant, and others) have shown videos of flawless idle on the ms3x so I'll probably pester them for their idle tuning secrets.
I really don't see why everyone is so interested in this.
OP, If your lowend is not as good as stock it just means its not tuned worth a damn, and you need to get on that instead of trying to waste time converting the stock table for a "starting point". 80% of it, as mentioned already, is warrantte and emissions crap that hurts your performance if anything.
Only thing I'd be interested is seeing how the stock ecu controls idle, since I still haven't mastered a FLAWLESS idle with ms. But looks like some folks (like y8s, Reverant, and others) have shown videos of flawless idle on the ms3x so I'll probably pester them for their idle tuning secrets.
I'm just interested in the areas that are more advanced than what I was running. No point in that.
My idle is amazing with Adaptronic. I've honestly never been happier with an ECU.
#35
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Nope. Adaptronic is controlling it now and it's flawless.
What issues were you having?
Mine targets 14.5 and doesn't fluctuate more than 3-5% and my idle target table usually targets the set idle within 75-100 RPM.
What issues were you having?
Mine targets 14.5 and doesn't fluctuate more than 3-5% and my idle target table usually targets the set idle within 75-100 RPM.
#36
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OP, If your lowend is not as good as stock it just means its not tuned worth a damn, and you need to get on that instead of trying to waste time converting the stock table for a "starting point". 80% of it, as mentioned already, is warrantte and emissions crap that hurts your performance if anything.
#37
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I fit's any consolation, Jeffman's car had some crazy whacked out crack ----- settings for spark at idle and idle valve settings on that supercharged car. They were pretty easy to get right on his supercharged car. For some reason the enrichment settings were a real bitch on my daily.
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You really don't need crazy anything. I'm running 10 degrees ignition at idle with my idle valve in closed loop control. Once you get your PID settings correct (there is an excellent guide to this) you are all good. Just make sure your fuel is set properly.
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Yeah. The only downfall I can see to the Adaptronic is that it allows you to change just about anything you could imagine. So unless you know what you are doing you can really put things out of whack.
But this in my opinion is way better than being frustrated with too few settings. My car legitimately starts runs and idles like its bone stock. Warm up and all.
But this in my opinion is way better than being frustrated with too few settings. My car legitimately starts runs and idles like its bone stock. Warm up and all.