So I have an MS3 basic. Now what?
#1
So I have an MS3 basic. Now what?
Purchased an MS3 basic from MSlabs (Rev).
Feeling a bit overwhelmed at the moment. It did not come with anything but a test sheet, the ecu and a harness of some sort.
I have read a ton of posts, but not sure which apply to my car and the MS3 I have... do I need to build some sort of gizmo for the alternator? Configure the timing? A hundered other things, or just unplug the factory ecu and plug this one in? I know I'll need a WB (buying today) and a IAT (GM?) which I'm also ordering (ebay) today but how do they get hooked up?
Is there an instruction sheet? I'm great at following directions but a lot of what I'm reading is for folks building their own MS systems and I think this one is already setup? Autotune... box came without any software... where do I find this? I know all of these answers are on this site somewhere. However, a lot of the information was posted in 2007-2008 before the MS3 existed, and now there are MS1, Ms2, Ms3 and 3-4 variations of each not to mention all the different Miata configurations.
Would love to install this this weekend but it's like someone handed me a box of parts and said build it when I'm not even sure what I'm building.
HELP!
Feeling a bit overwhelmed at the moment. It did not come with anything but a test sheet, the ecu and a harness of some sort.
I have read a ton of posts, but not sure which apply to my car and the MS3 I have... do I need to build some sort of gizmo for the alternator? Configure the timing? A hundered other things, or just unplug the factory ecu and plug this one in? I know I'll need a WB (buying today) and a IAT (GM?) which I'm also ordering (ebay) today but how do they get hooked up?
Is there an instruction sheet? I'm great at following directions but a lot of what I'm reading is for folks building their own MS systems and I think this one is already setup? Autotune... box came without any software... where do I find this? I know all of these answers are on this site somewhere. However, a lot of the information was posted in 2007-2008 before the MS3 existed, and now there are MS1, Ms2, Ms3 and 3-4 variations of each not to mention all the different Miata configurations.
Would love to install this this weekend but it's like someone handed me a box of parts and said build it when I'm not even sure what I'm building.
HELP!
#3
Purchased an MS3 basic from MSlabs (Rev).
Feeling a bit overwhelmed at the moment. It did not come with anything but a test sheet, the ecu and a harness of some sort.
I have read a ton of posts, but not sure which apply to my car and the MS3 I have... do I need to build some sort of gizmo for the alternator? Configure the timing? A hundered other things, or just unplug the factory ecu and plug this one in? I know I'll need a WB (buying today) and a IAT (GM?) which I'm also ordering (ebay) today but how do they get hooked up?
Is there an instruction sheet? I'm great at following directions but a lot of what I'm reading is for folks building their own MS systems and I think this one is already setup? Autotune... box came without any software... where do I find this? I know all of these answers are on this site somewhere. However, a lot of the information was posted in 2007-2008 before the MS3 existed, and now there are MS1, Ms2, Ms3 and 3-4 variations of each not to mention all the different Miata configurations.
Would love to install this this weekend but it's like someone handed me a box of parts and said build it when I'm not even sure what I'm building.
HELP!
Feeling a bit overwhelmed at the moment. It did not come with anything but a test sheet, the ecu and a harness of some sort.
I have read a ton of posts, but not sure which apply to my car and the MS3 I have... do I need to build some sort of gizmo for the alternator? Configure the timing? A hundered other things, or just unplug the factory ecu and plug this one in? I know I'll need a WB (buying today) and a IAT (GM?) which I'm also ordering (ebay) today but how do they get hooked up?
Is there an instruction sheet? I'm great at following directions but a lot of what I'm reading is for folks building their own MS systems and I think this one is already setup? Autotune... box came without any software... where do I find this? I know all of these answers are on this site somewhere. However, a lot of the information was posted in 2007-2008 before the MS3 existed, and now there are MS1, Ms2, Ms3 and 3-4 variations of each not to mention all the different Miata configurations.
Would love to install this this weekend but it's like someone handed me a box of parts and said build it when I'm not even sure what I'm building.
HELP!
You need to download Tunerstudio (and, after spending the amount you did you may as well go for the 'paid' version). Then read through the Tunerstudio web site and re-read again a few times. You'll need the USB cable/laptop to connect to the MS3
The MS3 has alternator control so you don't need anything else.
Rev should've sent you an zip file with an *.ini file and instructions with wiring pinouts etc for the wideband. If not, you should PM him (I have MS2 not MS3 so sorry if the MS3 doesn't use/need the *.ini file).
Wiring the GM IAT is pretty straightforward but you need to figure out where you're going to put it.
You'll need to either lose the front O2 sensor or have another bung welded into the downpipe for the Wideband sensor.
Other than that, take your time + do the research on each step + take your time.
1. Install wideband + calibrate
2. Install GM IAT Sensor + wire it
3. Remove ECU + Install MS3
4. Tune
#4
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Very NorCal
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Shoot Rev an email with your order number and ECU serial number. I believe he should have a set of instructions for you that will walk you through the install, setup, calibration and first start. At least, that's what I've seen from his other units.
#5
This is what i had when i got my ms3 basic from rev. The went pretty well have fun!
Instructions for the MS Labs
Basic MS3 ECU
1. Download TunerStudio from tunerstudio.com and install. Forget anything you
may have read about MegaTune or EasyTherm, it will not work with this ECU.
2. Download the drivers for your USB adapter and install.
3. 90-93 1.6 (US; 94-97 EU 1.6 as well) only: VERY IMPORTANT!!!!! Remove the 10A
"ST SIGN" from the engine bay fuse box. If you do not do this, the ECU will be
damaged and you will not be able to start the car!!! If you do NOT have a variable TPS,
you should also disconnect your stock TPS from the car. The ECU will not be damaged
if you don't, however it will appear as if the ECU is not working at all. You will
need to fit a variable TPS to take full advantage of this ECU. A typical and
budget TPS is the Wells type 201.
4. Remove the stock ECU
5. Run a vacuum line from the intake manifold, just after the throttle body,
to the ECU (the connection is under the DB37 socket). If you don't do this,
the car may not start at all, or may shoot black smoke out of the exhaust.
6. Connect the ECU to the stock harness.
7. If you want to use a GM IAT sensor, it must now be wired in.
• On the 99-05 (Non-MSM), simply replace the stock air temperature sensor found
• On the MSM, the GM sensor replaces the stock air sensor that is on the TB
• On the US 90-93 1.6L (and European 94-97 1.6L), the GM sensor replaces the
• On the 94-97 1.8L, the GM sensor replaces the sensor that is inside the MAF
on the air filter box with the GM sensor. There is no polarity on the wires.
elbow.
sensor that is inside the AFM (Air Flow Meter). Disconnect the AFM, and pull
back the rubber boot of the AFM's connector. You should see 7 wires on it. The
GM IAT connects to the red/green and black/green wires. No polarity.
(Mass Air Flow) sensor. Disconnect the MAF, and pull back the rubber boot of
the MAF's connector. You should see 5 wires on it. The GM IAT connects to the
red/black and black/green wires. No polarity.
8. Switch the ignition to ON, do NOT start the car yet. When you switch the ignition to
ON, you should hear the fuel pump priming for 2 seconds. If you do not year the fuel
pump priming, and your car is a JDM/Eunos, I may have included three connectors on
the harness adapter that have purple wires on them. Two of the connectors are male,
the third connector is female. Switch the female connector from the one of the males to
the other, and try again.
9. Connect the USB cable to the PC. Windows should detect and install your
cable.
10. After the device has been installed successfully, open the Device Manager
(Control Panel -> System -> Hardware -> Device Manager) and click "Ports" to
see which COM port it is under (usually between COM1 and COM10).
11. Save the attached .ini file on your Desktop.
12. We are ready to connect to the ECU. Run TunerStudio.
13. Click File -> New Project
14. Give your project a name - anything will do.
15. Under ECU definition, click "Other" and browse to the file you saved on
16. your desktop (the one attached in this email)
17. Click Next
18. Select:
• Oxygen Sensor: Wideband / AFR
• Temperature display: Celcius/Farenheit (whatever works for you)
• CAN COMMANDS: Deactivated
• EXPANDED CLT TEMP: Activated
• MPH: Activated
• Meters: Activated
• Internal log fields: Deactivated
• Use CRC data check: Deactivated
• PW 4X: Deactivated
• Cyl 12-16 support: Deactivated
19. Click Next
20. Under Port, select the COM port you found the USB cable to be under (ie
probably COM1 through 10)
21. Click "Test Port" - you should get "Successfull". If not, try with other
ports until you succeed.
22. Click Next.
23. Select the gauge style you want
24. Click Finish
25. You should see the gauges and you should be in Online mode.
26. Calibrate your TPS (if you have a variable TPS): Tools -> Calibrate TPS.
Do not press the throttle at all, and click the top "Get Current". Then press
the throttle fully, and click the bottom "Get Current" button. The click
Close. Now when you slowly press the throttle, the "Throttle Position"
indication should slowly go from 0% to 100%.
27. 90-97 cars must ABSOLUTELY set their base timing with a timing light!!!
99-05 cars will have a 0.5-2 degrees variance - you can drive the car in
low/medium revs/loads and you shouldn't have a problem, however you should
still set the base timing.
28. There are several free-hanging wires on the adapter loom (depending on your
request):
• Yellow - Wideband input. Connect this to your wideband analog output
• Grey – Switchable tables (optional). Connect this to a ground (through an on/off
• Brown – Launch control input. Connect to a ground (through a momentary
• Brown and Green (twisted together)- Ignition output C (brown) and ignition
• Pink and Violet – Injection output C (pink) and injection output D (violet) (90-93
switch) to switch between VE/Ignition tables.
switch) to enable launch (when pressed).
output D (green)
only)
• Pink and White (twisted together) – Oil pressure input (white; resistive), oil
temperature (pink; resistive). Connect to sensor. The other end of the sensor
goes to ground.
• Violet (purple) – VVT control solenoid (negative side) to use on 01-05 engine
swaps. The other pin of the valve needs a switched and fused (5A) 12V power
supply. The valve does not have a polarity.
• Green - Boost control output. Connect this to a boost control valve. The other
wire of the boost control valve needs to be connected to a switched and fused
12V source. A 5A fuse is recommended.
• White – Knock input. Connect to a knock sensor.
• Red – Datalog start/stop.Connect this to a switched 12V source (through an
on/off switch) to start/stop datalogging to the SD card.
• Orange - Free programmable output (Nitrous 2), low side. Can drive any load up
to 5A.
• Setting the base timing:
1. Run TunerStudio and open your project
2. Make sure you are in Online mode
3. Go to Basic Setup -> More Ignition Settings
4. Set "Fixed Advance" to "Fixed Timing"
5. Set "Timing for Fixed Advanced" to "10".
6. Click Burn (if running, the engine may die at this point)
7. Switch the ignition off and on again.
8. Start the car
9. The crank pulley on the 99-05 has two marks on it. The left mark should align
with the "10" sign just behing the pulley, while the right mark should align with
the "T" mark behind the pulley. On the 90-97, there is only one mark, which
should align with the “10” mark.
10.Go to Tools -> Trigger Wizard
11. Press the "-" and "+" buttons until both marks on the pulley are properly aligned.
On the 90-97, there is only mark, so that should align with “10”.
12.Press Burn when you are done. The engine may die.
13.Go to Basic Setup -> More Ignition Settings
14.Set "Fixed Advance" back to "Use Table" and click Burn
15.Switch the ignition off and on again - this is very important, if you don't do it, the
car will not start.
16.Start the car - the base timing is now set properly!
You are now ready to start the car and tune!
• Basic considerations for autotune (“VE Analyze Live” aka VEAL)
◦ Don't let VEAL autotune your idle – in most cases you will get a hunting (oscillating)
idle as if your car has aggressive cams. To fix this, go to “VE Analyze Live” →
Advanced Settings ->Min RPM and set it to 1500rpm.
◦ VEAL also likes to pull fuel on the very low load areas and as a result, after
◦ For the first 20 minutes of autotuning, set “Cell Change Resistance” to “Easy” to get
◦ As you go along and you are happy with the results, increase the Resistance
◦ To get good results with VEAL, you need to drive VERY smoothly, as if you were
◦ Make sure you sweep all areas of the fuel map by setting a fuel load target (adjust
◦ Start from 40% and increase the fuel load target by 10% each time, until your
◦ If you can't reach the rev limiter with very low fuel loads (ie 40%, 50%), use a lower
◦ Keep your eye on the AFR gauge – if it is too lean (especially under load) step off
◦ Make sure “Update Controller” is enabled.
◦ Click “Burn” every 5 minutes to make sure you don't lose any progress if your
autotuning for a while the car may hesisate at very low loads. To fix this, go to “VE
Analyze Live” → Advanced Settings ->Min fuelload and set it to 30kPa.
some quick results. Then set it back to “Normal”.
setting above even more.
driving on ice. This means very smooth transitions on the throttle.
your right foot on the throttle so the fuel load remains constant while driving) then
sweep through the entire RPM range up to the rev limiter. For example, try to
achieve a constant 50% fuel load with the throttle while the RPMs increase. Repeat
as many times needed for this particular fuel load target.
maximum achievable fuel load has been reached.
gear (1st, 2nd, etc).
the throttle and add some fuel manually to the map before proceeding any further!
laptop dies of battery or crashes, etc
Dimitris
Instructions for the MS Labs
Basic MS3 ECU
1. Download TunerStudio from tunerstudio.com and install. Forget anything you
may have read about MegaTune or EasyTherm, it will not work with this ECU.
2. Download the drivers for your USB adapter and install.
3. 90-93 1.6 (US; 94-97 EU 1.6 as well) only: VERY IMPORTANT!!!!! Remove the 10A
"ST SIGN" from the engine bay fuse box. If you do not do this, the ECU will be
damaged and you will not be able to start the car!!! If you do NOT have a variable TPS,
you should also disconnect your stock TPS from the car. The ECU will not be damaged
if you don't, however it will appear as if the ECU is not working at all. You will
need to fit a variable TPS to take full advantage of this ECU. A typical and
budget TPS is the Wells type 201.
4. Remove the stock ECU
5. Run a vacuum line from the intake manifold, just after the throttle body,
to the ECU (the connection is under the DB37 socket). If you don't do this,
the car may not start at all, or may shoot black smoke out of the exhaust.
6. Connect the ECU to the stock harness.
7. If you want to use a GM IAT sensor, it must now be wired in.
• On the 99-05 (Non-MSM), simply replace the stock air temperature sensor found
• On the MSM, the GM sensor replaces the stock air sensor that is on the TB
• On the US 90-93 1.6L (and European 94-97 1.6L), the GM sensor replaces the
• On the 94-97 1.8L, the GM sensor replaces the sensor that is inside the MAF
on the air filter box with the GM sensor. There is no polarity on the wires.
elbow.
sensor that is inside the AFM (Air Flow Meter). Disconnect the AFM, and pull
back the rubber boot of the AFM's connector. You should see 7 wires on it. The
GM IAT connects to the red/green and black/green wires. No polarity.
(Mass Air Flow) sensor. Disconnect the MAF, and pull back the rubber boot of
the MAF's connector. You should see 5 wires on it. The GM IAT connects to the
red/black and black/green wires. No polarity.
8. Switch the ignition to ON, do NOT start the car yet. When you switch the ignition to
ON, you should hear the fuel pump priming for 2 seconds. If you do not year the fuel
pump priming, and your car is a JDM/Eunos, I may have included three connectors on
the harness adapter that have purple wires on them. Two of the connectors are male,
the third connector is female. Switch the female connector from the one of the males to
the other, and try again.
9. Connect the USB cable to the PC. Windows should detect and install your
cable.
10. After the device has been installed successfully, open the Device Manager
(Control Panel -> System -> Hardware -> Device Manager) and click "Ports" to
see which COM port it is under (usually between COM1 and COM10).
11. Save the attached .ini file on your Desktop.
12. We are ready to connect to the ECU. Run TunerStudio.
13. Click File -> New Project
14. Give your project a name - anything will do.
15. Under ECU definition, click "Other" and browse to the file you saved on
16. your desktop (the one attached in this email)
17. Click Next
18. Select:
• Oxygen Sensor: Wideband / AFR
• Temperature display: Celcius/Farenheit (whatever works for you)
• CAN COMMANDS: Deactivated
• EXPANDED CLT TEMP: Activated
• MPH: Activated
• Meters: Activated
• Internal log fields: Deactivated
• Use CRC data check: Deactivated
• PW 4X: Deactivated
• Cyl 12-16 support: Deactivated
19. Click Next
20. Under Port, select the COM port you found the USB cable to be under (ie
probably COM1 through 10)
21. Click "Test Port" - you should get "Successfull". If not, try with other
ports until you succeed.
22. Click Next.
23. Select the gauge style you want
24. Click Finish
25. You should see the gauges and you should be in Online mode.
26. Calibrate your TPS (if you have a variable TPS): Tools -> Calibrate TPS.
Do not press the throttle at all, and click the top "Get Current". Then press
the throttle fully, and click the bottom "Get Current" button. The click
Close. Now when you slowly press the throttle, the "Throttle Position"
indication should slowly go from 0% to 100%.
27. 90-97 cars must ABSOLUTELY set their base timing with a timing light!!!
99-05 cars will have a 0.5-2 degrees variance - you can drive the car in
low/medium revs/loads and you shouldn't have a problem, however you should
still set the base timing.
28. There are several free-hanging wires on the adapter loom (depending on your
request):
• Yellow - Wideband input. Connect this to your wideband analog output
• Grey – Switchable tables (optional). Connect this to a ground (through an on/off
• Brown – Launch control input. Connect to a ground (through a momentary
• Brown and Green (twisted together)- Ignition output C (brown) and ignition
• Pink and Violet – Injection output C (pink) and injection output D (violet) (90-93
switch) to switch between VE/Ignition tables.
switch) to enable launch (when pressed).
output D (green)
only)
• Pink and White (twisted together) – Oil pressure input (white; resistive), oil
temperature (pink; resistive). Connect to sensor. The other end of the sensor
goes to ground.
• Violet (purple) – VVT control solenoid (negative side) to use on 01-05 engine
swaps. The other pin of the valve needs a switched and fused (5A) 12V power
supply. The valve does not have a polarity.
• Green - Boost control output. Connect this to a boost control valve. The other
wire of the boost control valve needs to be connected to a switched and fused
12V source. A 5A fuse is recommended.
• White – Knock input. Connect to a knock sensor.
• Red – Datalog start/stop.Connect this to a switched 12V source (through an
on/off switch) to start/stop datalogging to the SD card.
• Orange - Free programmable output (Nitrous 2), low side. Can drive any load up
to 5A.
• Setting the base timing:
1. Run TunerStudio and open your project
2. Make sure you are in Online mode
3. Go to Basic Setup -> More Ignition Settings
4. Set "Fixed Advance" to "Fixed Timing"
5. Set "Timing for Fixed Advanced" to "10".
6. Click Burn (if running, the engine may die at this point)
7. Switch the ignition off and on again.
8. Start the car
9. The crank pulley on the 99-05 has two marks on it. The left mark should align
with the "10" sign just behing the pulley, while the right mark should align with
the "T" mark behind the pulley. On the 90-97, there is only one mark, which
should align with the “10” mark.
10.Go to Tools -> Trigger Wizard
11. Press the "-" and "+" buttons until both marks on the pulley are properly aligned.
On the 90-97, there is only mark, so that should align with “10”.
12.Press Burn when you are done. The engine may die.
13.Go to Basic Setup -> More Ignition Settings
14.Set "Fixed Advance" back to "Use Table" and click Burn
15.Switch the ignition off and on again - this is very important, if you don't do it, the
car will not start.
16.Start the car - the base timing is now set properly!
You are now ready to start the car and tune!
• Basic considerations for autotune (“VE Analyze Live” aka VEAL)
◦ Don't let VEAL autotune your idle – in most cases you will get a hunting (oscillating)
idle as if your car has aggressive cams. To fix this, go to “VE Analyze Live” →
Advanced Settings ->Min RPM and set it to 1500rpm.
◦ VEAL also likes to pull fuel on the very low load areas and as a result, after
◦ For the first 20 minutes of autotuning, set “Cell Change Resistance” to “Easy” to get
◦ As you go along and you are happy with the results, increase the Resistance
◦ To get good results with VEAL, you need to drive VERY smoothly, as if you were
◦ Make sure you sweep all areas of the fuel map by setting a fuel load target (adjust
◦ Start from 40% and increase the fuel load target by 10% each time, until your
◦ If you can't reach the rev limiter with very low fuel loads (ie 40%, 50%), use a lower
◦ Keep your eye on the AFR gauge – if it is too lean (especially under load) step off
◦ Make sure “Update Controller” is enabled.
◦ Click “Burn” every 5 minutes to make sure you don't lose any progress if your
autotuning for a while the car may hesisate at very low loads. To fix this, go to “VE
Analyze Live” → Advanced Settings ->Min fuelload and set it to 30kPa.
some quick results. Then set it back to “Normal”.
setting above even more.
driving on ice. This means very smooth transitions on the throttle.
your right foot on the throttle so the fuel load remains constant while driving) then
sweep through the entire RPM range up to the rev limiter. For example, try to
achieve a constant 50% fuel load with the throttle while the RPMs increase. Repeat
as many times needed for this particular fuel load target.
maximum achievable fuel load has been reached.
gear (1st, 2nd, etc).
the throttle and add some fuel manually to the map before proceeding any further!
laptop dies of battery or crashes, etc
Dimitris
#6
Elite Member
iTrader: (37)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Very NorCal
Posts: 10,448
Total Cats: 1,900
And while the directions YOU got with YOUR MS3 Basic might work for you, OP may have his wired slightly differently depending on how Rev built the unit. I'm not saying they will or they won't work, what I'm saying is that if they don't, its going to be am expensive fix.
OP: if I were you I would STILL wait for Reverant to get back to you and confirm.
OP: if I were you I would STILL wait for Reverant to get back to you and confirm.
#9
Retired Mech Design Engr
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 5,012
Total Cats: 859
And as mentioned, you will need the .ini file. Then things will run OK, but not perfect. Then you learn, and change things, and results will vary, but slowly get better than as received. HOWEVER, keep that original base map (tune) for reference.
#12
If it's like my 2000 model, it's pretty simple. Run a vacuum line off of a T at one of your existing lines. Install and wire-up your WB. Unplug and remove the factory ECU, and plug in the MS3 and zip tie it up under the dash. You should be able to use your factory IAT sensor, but if you want to place it with the GM part that's a superior sensor. Start the car and begin tuning/tweaking with tunerstudio.
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Zaphod
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