It has all the components necessary, just have to be able to load apps on it. Hate to spend the money on it without trying it first.

 

Link to product?

 

e.g.: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Touc...e-31cab9b090e3

 

it says it supports OBD2 dongle, DAB+ radio receivers and a camera all via USB. Sounds good?

 

It also supports Herbrew. So that is a plus.

Are there any Android 5+ head units that doe USB OTG?

 

Never knew, but it looks like there are possibly a few other options on amazon rather than aliexpress from Eswin Automotive Store in mainland china.

But you're wanting a stealthy look right? Check this one out - http://www.autopumpkin.com/car-dvd-p...eo-output.html

Has ODB2 support, bluetooth, gps, USB port in front like the other.

Latest Android 5.1 Double Din 2 Din Car GPS Stereo,Android 5.1 Head Unit | Pumpkin

These are neat and shiney.

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Top-...4-80046dab1470

same same but diffelent

 

in a perfect world one would be able to run Harry's Laptimer and hook up a wifi camera and a hi-res GPS mouse directly to the stereo

 

That is ******' cool. It even looks kinda period correct. A bit of 90's rice. If it's running normal android I don't see why it couldn't bluetooth sync to the the MS and auto-start tunerstudio.

Could even run it in the top DIN with some traditional gauges below for some thing. You'd cover the HVAC controls though.

 

If these are truly Android based units with wifi you can do all of the above. Without WIFI you would only sacrifice the camera control.

I'm doing just that with tablet.

 

I made it from C channel and angle aluminum stock.

 

Available through amazon as well:

https://www.amazon.com/Pumpkin-Andro...android+stereo

 

Worse specs than 4 year old phones. No thanks

 

Just pointing out that you can order those from retailers based on this continent.

I have a nexus tab I'd like to do this with as well, except I want to be able to keep using it for school too since it's helpful for reviewing notecards and watching review lectures on the go.

So basically, I might be mounting it in a way where it can be easily detached and I want to run shadow dash to look at gauges. I might look into having things going through wifi on my phone so I can run gps or such through that, but I'm content running that through my phone and just using the nexus for shadow dash. Need to read a bit more of running oil pressure and temp sensors to the megasquirt.

 

Gentlemen, I think I've found the answer: https://youtu.be/8qHvB8bD404

this guy, while suffering from severe vertical video syndrome, runs shadow dash on a Joying 2 DIN radio. It looks like a tablet, but it's an Android 5.1 head unit. so I suppose the Pumpkin 5.1 radios will work as well.

he does however use the USB connection, not Bluetooth. I might run a longer USB cable from the radio into the passenger footwell and connect it to the MS3-PRO there. Whenever I do some tuning I'll simply hook the USB cable up to my laptop.

being able to run MSdroid is another bonus, being able to make adjustments on the fly.

 

How do I tell if these are USB OTG. I much rather wire up my MS with USB then do bluetooth.

 

most likely by shelling out 400.- I presume?

joking aside, this is exactly what the guy in the video has done!?

 

This is why I posted the link to the item for sale on amazon. Much easier to ask questions and field returns if it's bought through them.

 

You DON'T want this unit!

I got it prior to Xmas and spent 3 days trying to install the bastard in my MSM and here are the problems with it:

1. The unit comes with NO mounting hardware - so I bought a generic Double-DIN cage.

2. Double-DIN units are heavy and name-brand manufacturers include a rubberised mounting pin on the back that slides into a slot in the cavity's rear vertical brace to help support the unit - there was none included but there was a threaded hole in the rear at approximately the right spot so I made a mounting pin from a 5mm Allen bolt, several nuts and multiple layers of heatshrink "heatshrunk".

3. The plastic fascia that comes with the unit looks cheap and looks like it's been sitting in the sun for years - it's NOT black. The fascia is far too wide and a little tall too so you need to trim it a lot, way too much on the sides though because it becomes too thin. I have several fascias from other units but none fit over the unit due to the next problem:

4. The front plastic bezel attaches to the outside of the metal housing so protrudes on all sides. This means that the unit CANNOT be mounted in the generic cage because the plastic bezel stops it sliding far enough forward, meaning that the unit sticks out way too far. Good luck with trying to make your own custom solution too because the plastic bezel is so wide that there's no room on the sides so you can't get any extracting tools in to get it out again if you have snap-lock tabs. There is quite a bit of vertical space though.

Since there is no room on the sides, I made a top and bottom shelf out of 2mm aluminium with small lips on the front to hook onto the fascia and joined them with a square-angled u-brace that was mounted to the cavity's rear brace and included a hole for the mounting pin to pass through, The unit slid in and sat well but protruded a little too far for my liking but that was going to be as good as it gets. I still had NO idea how I was going to secure in place, custom locking tabs onto the top and bottom shelf were going to be my only option.

Some of the rear cables plug in close to that rear vertical cavity brace so I connected them and slid the unit in for a test fit - unfortunately they prevented the unit from going all the way. Most of the offending wiring was audio and since I only have from speakers and an amp in my car, I cut off all the unwanted wires from the plug and STILL had the same problem - the socket is hitting the rear brace so can't go in fully.

When I pulled the unit apart, I found that there is only a single motherboard in the bottom of the unit - the rest is just empty.

At this point I gave up on trying to fit it and ordered this instead: https://www.amazon.com/Android-Bluet...&tag=wow085-20

It's a single-DIN unit with a detachable screen.
The unit comes with a single-DIN mounting cage - unfortunately the screen protrudes too far since the cage's front lips hook onto the sides of the fascia.
You can adjust the screen's mounting points (the 4 mounting clips can be screwed into any of the vertical screw-points)
This unit is not as deep as a Double-Din unit and the whole unit, including the screen, fit inside the head unit cavity so I'm in the process of trying to make a bracket(s) to fit it so that it sits flush.
The detachable screen and smaller single-Din housing make this job much easier, I can actually see what I have to work with (you need to jam a Double-Din unit in so have no idea).

Also, one of my generic mounting kit fascias fits nicely over the screen so I should be able to make it look neat.

FYI: I installed a Mazda 3 EONON Double-DIN unit in my Mazda SP23 (see EONON GA5151W install into 2005 SP23 - MazdaSpeeders.com for details) and even though it has a custom panel and custom mounts, I still needed to do some work to make it fit properly/securely. It's something that the Chinese manufacturers really need to get a handle on because Android head units are so useful in a car.

Bottom line: If you're going to get a Chinese Android unit:
* try and get one with mounts/panel specific to your vehicle
* otherwise custom mounting is required (if you get it done by someone else, don't be surprised if it ends up looking crap, they charge you a lot for it because it's a custom-mount, and the head unit protrudes too far)
* Aim for at least Android 5.1
* Get the biggest resolution you can find (typically 1024x600 today - my SP23 only has 800x480(WGA) which isn't enough when you have Apps with buttons on them).
* Use Apps designed for Landscape mode - most Apps are designed for phone's in Portrait mode and are painful to use in Landscape mode eg, if the App uses lists, scrolling through them takes forever

 

Will it Megasquirt?