Random misses/cutouts helps me
#1
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*edit* This is a processor restart issue.
Running ms1 v3.0. Brain built around 2008. I am like the 3rd owner or something and trying to get everything to work right.
Hr10g
Running diy's 96/97 basemap with spark invert.
The car runs, I have registered tunerstudio and MLV and zeitronix wideband.
It runs perfect on stock ecu. With ms1 it will run and idle ok (def. needs to be tuned) but randomly it will just cutout or miss at idle and higher, sometimes at idle it will just die. When I looked at the tooth counter all the bars are even, and when looking at the trigger counter every time it misses, a bar goes up a little higher then the others.
I had an issue earlier with ms not outputting enough juice to fire all my cops, which was "fixed" by using 100ohm pullup resistors on Joes spark output mod instead of 330ohm. Could it be related to that?
Also the diy map seems to run real rich. I changed a few things like scaled the timing down about 20% and tried letting autotune have a go but any ideas what it could be?
Also when the bigger cutouts happen the middle led will shutoff.![](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/confused.gif)
theres my datalog
Running ms1 v3.0. Brain built around 2008. I am like the 3rd owner or something and trying to get everything to work right.
Hr10g
Running diy's 96/97 basemap with spark invert.
The car runs, I have registered tunerstudio and MLV and zeitronix wideband.
It runs perfect on stock ecu. With ms1 it will run and idle ok (def. needs to be tuned) but randomly it will just cutout or miss at idle and higher, sometimes at idle it will just die. When I looked at the tooth counter all the bars are even, and when looking at the trigger counter every time it misses, a bar goes up a little higher then the others.
I had an issue earlier with ms not outputting enough juice to fire all my cops, which was "fixed" by using 100ohm pullup resistors on Joes spark output mod instead of 330ohm. Could it be related to that?
Also the diy map seems to run real rich. I changed a few things like scaled the timing down about 20% and tried letting autotune have a go but any ideas what it could be?
Also when the bigger cutouts happen the middle led will shutoff.
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/confused.gif)
theres my datalog
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Last edited by Jpopsbronco; 01-31-2012 at 01:59 AM.
#4
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Well, before I started logging the car had turned on and off a few times with tunerstudio up and going... During the datalog, the car remained running the entire time. (would that indicate that the ms reset 4 times during the datalog???)
I had the ms wired in through the parallel harness at first and then after some reading decided to ground it better. So its wired like this:
12v comes from relay, powering zt2 and ms.
The 2 chassis grounds from the ecu are tied into the grounds for the ms, which I changed. I soldered in 2 more lengths of 14awg and grounded those to the chassis to be sure it was grounded well.
I just tried something else also. I switched spark outputs from your mod with the 2n2222 transistors from radioshaq back to original. I never had it running on original and never did try, until today. It doesn't spark st all with that output, except when I turn the key on I get the intake backfire.
Thanks for your help, and your inj shipped out yesterday.
I had the ms wired in through the parallel harness at first and then after some reading decided to ground it better. So its wired like this:
12v comes from relay, powering zt2 and ms.
The 2 chassis grounds from the ecu are tied into the grounds for the ms, which I changed. I soldered in 2 more lengths of 14awg and grounded those to the chassis to be sure it was grounded well.
I just tried something else also. I switched spark outputs from your mod with the 2n2222 transistors from radioshaq back to original. I never had it running on original and never did try, until today. It doesn't spark st all with that output, except when I turn the key on I get the intake backfire.
Thanks for your help, and your inj shipped out yesterday.
#5
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(SecL is an internal counter within the MS which represents the number of seconds elapsed since the MS booted up. Normally it counts from 0-255 and then rolls over. When it suddenly drops to 0 from some value other than 255, this normally indicates a processor reset.)
The barometer reading also resets itself to something close to whatever the most recent MAP reading before the reset was, which is also indicative of a processor reset. (The baro value is generated by sampling the MAP sensor once immediately at bootup, under the assumption that the engine will not be running and, this, MAP will be equal to baro.
I had the ms wired in through the parallel harness at first and then after some reading decided to ground it better.
I just tried something else also. I switched spark outputs from your mod with the 2n2222 transistors from radioshaq back to original. I never had it running on original and never did try, until today. It doesn't spark st all with that output, except when I turn the key on I get the intake backfire.
But I can pretty much guarantee you that whatever I am seeing in this log is not related to your ignition system. Something is very wrong, and it's hard to say what, but it's causing the CPU to reset itself.
Thanks for your help, and your inj shipped out yesterday.
#6
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Ok, so you were right again sir! Update: I put spark outputs back to your spark output setup and it started and ran like normal. Ve analyze worked and the afrs were right on par. So I drove to the gas station thinking it must've been a cold solder joint, everything was working pretty normally. After I started it up after refueling it started and idled as good as it had on the stock computer. So I take a look at the ms and for whatever reason gave it a little knock with my hand and it starts doing it again, First it missed alot then all 3 lights went out as it died, after knocking it a few more times the lights came on but no start. So I'm guessing it was power related like you said. I went back and reflowed all the solder joints inside the ms, all of them, and the problem persists. Any ideas? My harness LOOKS ok but could it be related to that(my next step is to check my db37 connector...)? I've got my multimeter ready
.
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#7
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No noticable effects from changing grounds and adding relay, and I did change spark output both times. The car still runs and drives perfectly on stock ecu(how I got home from gas station lol)
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One more thing. When it was working correctly, after the car had sat for awhile the coolant temp sensor in tunerstudio started at 168 when the water temp was definitely lower (ait was like 68) and rose to 174. Then, the more gas I gave it (direct relation to tps) the lower the clt got. Like at 50% tps, and 3000rpm the clt would be at 98 but clutch in at idle 174, and everywhere in between.
This was after I had used easy therm to flash 1544 bias resistor, r7 removed. r4 intact.
I'm really beginning to suspect grounding issues.......
This was after I had used easy therm to flash 1544 bias resistor, r7 removed. r4 intact.
I'm really beginning to suspect grounding issues.......
#9
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Checked grounds, They are definitely good. Founds a loose connection in parallel harness so decided to make an entirely new one. Will update after thats done.
After I fixed the connection temporary, the car idled much better (it was actually strange because I dont know what happened but the clt and tps signal were both affected by the position of the connector into the stock ecu...)
The car was still not running like it had on the way to the gas station though. If I revved it up slowly it would be fine but if I gave it a quick shot it would die for a sec(middle led turns off) but come back before rpms dropped enough to die. Sometimes it would do it at idle also.
Any ideas where to start to check for processor resets?
After I fixed the connection temporary, the car idled much better (it was actually strange because I dont know what happened but the clt and tps signal were both affected by the position of the connector into the stock ecu...)
The car was still not running like it had on the way to the gas station though. If I revved it up slowly it would be fine but if I gave it a quick shot it would die for a sec(middle led turns off) but come back before rpms dropped enough to die. Sometimes it would do it at idle also.
Any ideas where to start to check for processor resets?
#10
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Ok here's something new. I bought my buddies known good parallel harness, and wired in the ms as I had it wired before with my harness. I also cleaned the board real good with some 91% rubbin alc and toothbrush, after it dried it looked a little white and not glossy anymore, so I think I got all the rosin off lol. Also I checked my grounds again and resocketed the processor.
Anyways, the car runs better with the new harness and clean board, but still has what i assume are resets. I have more or less pinpointed when they occur though because most the time they arent random.
It will idle well and reach up to 209* in megatune then my fans turn on, but this is after at least 10 mins of idling, and my middle led never turns off(it has fanmod but running parallel). It only flickers/turns off when the car stumbles or misses or dies whatever it does. In tuner studio its set as warmup led and output 4 is off. Anyone have any insight? should i set it to fan output and not warmup?
The resets or whatever they are mainly are induced when there is load on the engine. Every single time there is a load on the engine it does it, sometimes, randomly it will do it at idle, but it is very random at idle if it does it at all.
Anyways, the car runs better with the new harness and clean board, but still has what i assume are resets. I have more or less pinpointed when they occur though because most the time they arent random.
It will idle well and reach up to 209* in megatune then my fans turn on, but this is after at least 10 mins of idling, and my middle led never turns off(it has fanmod but running parallel). It only flickers/turns off when the car stumbles or misses or dies whatever it does. In tuner studio its set as warmup led and output 4 is off. Anyone have any insight? should i set it to fan output and not warmup?
The resets or whatever they are mainly are induced when there is load on the engine. Every single time there is a load on the engine it does it, sometimes, randomly it will do it at idle, but it is very random at idle if it does it at all.
Last edited by Jpopsbronco; 01-31-2012 at 01:26 AM.
#12
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Do not ASSUME you are getting a reset - KNOW. Look at the data log. Do you have a vertical red line there? Does SecL drop to zero? If so, yes, you've got a reset. If not, you've got something else. And I recommend posting a data log of it if you wish for help in determining WHAT it is.
Also, do the resets only show up on the car, or do they show up on a Stim? What is the condition of your spark plugs and plug wires?
Also, do the resets only show up on the car, or do they show up on a Stim? What is the condition of your spark plugs and plug wires?
#13
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Do not ASSUME you are getting a reset - KNOW. Look at the data log. Do you have a vertical red line there? Does SecL drop to zero? If so, yes, you've got a reset. If not, you've got something else. And I recommend posting a data log of it if you wish for help in determining WHAT it is.
Also, do the resets only show up on the car, or do they show up on a Stim? What is the condition of your spark plugs and plug wires?
Also, do the resets only show up on the car, or do they show up on a Stim? What is the condition of your spark plugs and plug wires?
Also I wired in a switch for spark control, and when initially booted with spark set to factory ecu, the car runs normal on fuel only, but if you switch spark on, it starts with the restarts and continues to run poorly and die with either with the stock ecu or ms is controlling spark until I switch it back off and restart. I'm in the process of aquiring a stim
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Last edited by Jpopsbronco; 02-02-2012 at 10:37 PM.
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