WigglingWaffles

I got a Braineack built MS3X today and as im installing it, i came into a couple roadblock questions, due to a high noob level with electrical systems.

1) can i continue using the stock afm for first start and test runs? A GM iat was included, but id rather not plumb it in until after i get the car running. Im assuming settings in TS would need changed if i stay stock.
2) in the directions theres an I/O pigtail for wideband o2 that shows yellow and grey wires for spark C/D. I intend on staying with batch ignition until i get more comfortable tuning. Do i just leave these wires alone?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

1) that's really pointless and stupid and will take more effort and time on your part than starting the right way on speed density
2) wire in the wideband, leave ignition stock

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

what he said. :P

you should really dump the AFM, even just duct taping the AIT sensor in the air box in front of the filter is better. Pulling the AFM is good for an extra 5hp alone.

SpartanSV

OP is just wanting to use the stock MAF for IAT. You can absolutely do it that way, but as brain mentioned there are power gains to be had without the MAF in place.

https://trubokitty.com/#/tune <---- Brain's site. I used what he had listed at the bottom of that page to utilize my stock MAF for IAT.

EDIT: Just noticed you're on a 1990 chassis with a AFM instead of a MAF and I have no idea if that AFM still allows for temp sensing or if the calibration is the same as the 1.8 MAFs.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

1) unplug maf/afm
2) connect the 2 wires to the gm iat
3) place into airbox

done.
proceed with tuning car

SpartanSV

Also add jumper wire at AFM connector for the fuel pump cause 1.6 car.

https://trubokitty.com/#/installation Brain is the ******* man.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

the instructions in my sticky thread are actually geared to a unit I built.

WigglingWaffles

I ended up plumbing in the iat because i found the right tap. Fuel C and D on the I/O pigtail are still disconnected and the injectors remain as stock.
((trigger warning; im a noob))
so now my problem is initial tuning. Im still trying to run batch ignition for now, and i cant seem to get the engine to idle well.

It will idle somewhat stable, bouncing between 1,000-1,250rpm, but my afr's wont budge below 21. Ive tried tuning it out through the VE table, but it doesnt seem to change anything, even on the idle VE table. I recalibrated my wbo2 and it matches ts. I also tried running a few logs through VE analyze and it helped, but only by about .4 afr.
Not to mention that, even outdoors i can smell unburnt gas around the car.


the only ways i can get it to richen up is by pinching the MAP line or by throwing something like a 17 on my required fuel, both of which i know are incorrect ways to solve this problem long term.

im bound and determined to not give up, but im also really stumped.

WigglingWaffles

Here's the tune and a log of the car idling with a few pedal taps
side note; I do not have my TPS plugged in per the installation instructions