Pls Help ASAP!
05-25-2017, 09:46 PM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2016
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Gauges Stopped Working, Engine Runs Horrible, MS2 Basic (SOLVED)
I have a reverent built ms2 basic for a 95 Miata, running an innovate mtxl, I wired my boost gauge and water temp gauge to the 12v and ground provided by the options connectors on the ecu. The wires on my water temp started coming out of the gauge connector and the 12v might have touched the ground for that gauge. This is the aftermath. I cant find a pinout for this specific board, and i I have a drift event tomorrow and I'm looking for any help. Thanks in advance if anyone responds.
Oh and the fuse looks like it says .6 amp 250v but it might be just 6amps if anyone can confirm?
Last edited by 0psi; 05-29-2017 at 06:01 PM.
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05-28-2017, 12:03 PM
#3
What I did on mine is I ran a 10 GA wire from the positive battery post through a 2A fuse and a relay switched on by the dimmer wire for the radio. Just to ensure I had a good power source. What is the issue right now? Is it a no start or are the gauges just not working? Having trouble seeing your pictures btw.
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05-29-2017, 06:32 PM
#4
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: New York
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First of all thanks to Reverent for replying fairly quickly
Okay, so even before I made this post, I checked every fuse in the car and couldn't find anything. Then I remembered reading somewhere about a fuse in the ECU. Took the ECU apart and immediately noticed burnt out connections on the circuit board and got really scared. Tested out the ceramic fuse and it was blown. I knew i had to fix those burnt out connections, so I soldered the big one in picture #1. For the smaller one I had to trace the connection all the way through the circuit board and daughter board from over and under it. Found the two common points in between the options harness connector and the engine harness connector and ran a wire across the entire board from under it.
Now that all the connections looked good although burnt, I had to figure out the fuse problem. I went through a bunch of 630ma fuses trying to get the gauges to turn on for more than 3 seconds. I tried seeing if the fuse would stay intact disconnecting the gauges, and o2 sensor separately to try and find a short. The fuse stayed intact only when the o2 sensor was disconnected and I thought the sensor was the problem. Borrowed another sensor from a friend and it blew out the last fuse. It makes sense now that the gauge worked with the 630 ma fuses because only the gauge was using power and the sensor wasn't being heated. I gave up with the entire thing after this and just went out to the drift event. Reverent tells me the fuse is actually a 6A not .6, which is what fixed the problem. It looks like what caused the fuse to blow was the wires on my water temp gauge touching. The gauges turned off and the car would run horribly and buck only on constant load. I still don't know why some connections are burnt on the circuit board though.
Thought I'd follow up with what I went through to solve the issue.
Okay, so even before I made this post, I checked every fuse in the car and couldn't find anything. Then I remembered reading somewhere about a fuse in the ECU. Took the ECU apart and immediately noticed burnt out connections on the circuit board and got really scared. Tested out the ceramic fuse and it was blown. I knew i had to fix those burnt out connections, so I soldered the big one in picture #1. For the smaller one I had to trace the connection all the way through the circuit board and daughter board from over and under it. Found the two common points in between the options harness connector and the engine harness connector and ran a wire across the entire board from under it.
Now that all the connections looked good although burnt, I had to figure out the fuse problem. I went through a bunch of 630ma fuses trying to get the gauges to turn on for more than 3 seconds. I tried seeing if the fuse would stay intact disconnecting the gauges, and o2 sensor separately to try and find a short. The fuse stayed intact only when the o2 sensor was disconnected and I thought the sensor was the problem. Borrowed another sensor from a friend and it blew out the last fuse. It makes sense now that the gauge worked with the 630 ma fuses because only the gauge was using power and the sensor wasn't being heated. I gave up with the entire thing after this and just went out to the drift event. Reverent tells me the fuse is actually a 6A not .6, which is what fixed the problem. It looks like what caused the fuse to blow was the wires on my water temp gauge touching. The gauges turned off and the car would run horribly and buck only on constant load. I still don't know why some connections are burnt on the circuit board though.
Thought I'd follow up with what I went through to solve the issue.
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