1999 Mazda Miata. Stock everything except for MS wideband and ait sensor. Installed all of these yesterday. Started the car but died soon after. At first i thought it might be timing because instructions said to set timing when first installed. I can get it to stay onif I keep throttle down to more then 2k. I did this and looked at timing. It was at 8 degrees. So not too far off. Changed the angle from 6 to 4. Started the car and still same issue. Afr reads 14 when at 3k but as soon as I let off the throttle it goes to 11 and dies. First Data log is with me keeping throttle at 3k and the other one is after I set timing and blipping the throttle then letting it die. Im running ms3pro from diyautotune on their base map. Stock injectors. Any suggestions would be so helpful. Total noob when it comes to megasquirt and tuning. Read the manual and am getting familiar with the settings.

 

Neeeds more fuel -> hench it idles when your giving it gas.
Add a tonne across the board until she idles then fine tune, remember its hard kto tune idle until you tune your fuel map, so get that sucker on VE.

 

When I let off the gas it goes rich though. Afrs go down to 11 before it dies out. Shouldn't it be going lean when it dies out? Idk I'm noob.

 

You are right you need to lean out your idle be table. In the ms manual it confirms that also. On mine 5 pts is about 1 afr

 

Mine goes rich to, my understanding is its EAE and wall adhesion of fuel. Can be tuned out once cars working fine. Shouldnt make a difference to it starting. This is level 10 tuning, your on Level 1.

Spark, Air, Fuel = running.
You have spark, you have air.... so fuel? Lets be honest, you cant really damage the car adding more fuel at idle speeds. so get it going.

Also have a look at your WUE and ASE. They need to be considerable higher % if cold. Go look at a few examples. -> keep in mind these multiply your base fuel. if your base fuel is no where near enough then the other two will be so high its rediculous, which will be all over the shop once you do tune base fuel.

 

Change your fixed timing and use table.Your tps needs calibration also.
Your idle needs tuning also, the values you have in your open loop idle may not be suitable for your idle valve.

 

I calibrated tps today and changed to use table. How do I tune idle? I watched one of Greg's videos about megasquirt but he doesnt really go into that. He just says play with the settings lol. Any tips on getting my idle down through the idle controls? I lowered my VE table at where at idle because the smell of gas is super strong when the car is running. Plus I have to keep throttle open for it to continue to idle. Which Im guessing is because there is too much fuel and not enough air at idle. Dropping the VE values down at idle seemed to help to get the car shaking less. Ill try to work on the idle values, any tips? All the help is truly appreciated though thanks guys.

 

You need to study the manual and this forum mate. If you do, things are gonna get a lot easier.
You have to set same values on your VE/Timing cells(you are using idle ve function in your tune, you might want to tune this later) and use the idle valve test mode to figure out the valve's Duty cycles.
Try using the 2nd curve in injector dead time voltage correction.

 

that is the truth. I have read the manual and picked up diyautotunes book on EFI before i got the MS. Things are slowly starting to make sense now that I have it and am playing around with it. A friend of mine told me to change the idle valve to inverted instaead of normal. After doing this the car started idling at 2k without me having to give it throttle. I was low on gas from all the idling i had been doing so i turned autotune on and went on my first drive with the MS. The car ran sloppy but thats to be expected I guess. Anyways, I started smelling a burnt smell like clothes left on the iron too long. right next to me on the center console it started getting super hot. I thought it was the transmission at first but then realized it was further back. Figured it had to be the wiring. WHen I got home I popped the hood and the trunk was hot! The battery was super hot. I unplugged it. Took apart my center console (wired up the wideband and boost gauge to the cigarrette lighter) checked the wires and they were fine. Checked under the dash (connected the boost gauge 12v constant to a wire under here) and it was fine too. Just did a visual inspection because it was dark out. But anywyas, what do you guys think happened? What should I be checking tomorrow and correcting? I got pretty scared, thoguht the car was going to catch on fire!

 

It sounds like you have too strong a draw or a short in one of the circuits. Or possibly too much resistance. I would say you have to clean and replace your grounds and determine why others don't use the cigarette lighter for their wideband power. I sourced mine from the power window circuit.

 

What kind of MS are you Running?
Get +12v for your accessories from the white/red wire that goes to the ecu,pin 1B(that's the acc on power) and ground from black-yellow/black-green wires (pins 3C/3D)
Some ms, like reverant's have already the wires you need in an expasion loom.

 

OP is running a MSPNP-Pro from DIYAutoTune. I am pretty sure he is still on the stock firmware that they ship with, and working from their stock basemap.

 

So I installed a boost gauge and a wideband at the same time as the MS3 PNP. I have ground for both of these off the intake manifold. there is an area right on the intake manifold where you can thread a bolt in.

What I did for the 12v switched was this:
Cut the yellow wire for the cigarette lighter. On each end I twisted the wideband wire and the boost gauge wire respectively. Soldered them in. Then I took a small piece of wire to connect the two ends and soldered that in the middle. Soldering was not the best thats for sure.

What I did for 12v Constant:
The boost gauge came with a little manual that says you have to hook up one wire to a 12v switched and another to a 12v constant. After installing the 12v switched i tested it out to see if it would work on just that. The only thing that turned on was the needle for the boost guage. So I looked under the dash to find a 12v constant source. Found 2. There was a thick blue wire and a smaller red wire. Opted to go with the smaller red wire since I had no idea how I would splice into the big wire. I cut the red wire and wrapped the boost gauge wire to it. Soldered it on. Then I took a piece of wire and connected the two pieces of wire together. The gauges worked fine and turned on.

I am a complete noob to soldering and all of this. Learning as I go along. Im not even sure if the method I used to connect these gauges was the best. I checked the connections today and all seems fine. Doesnt look burned or anything.

There are four things that stand out to me as possible causes. Correct me if Im wrong but these are the things I have changed from the car that I feel might have caused the battery to overheat.

1. When I was setting up timing I left the plastic tab on the alternator that you connect the positive side of the timing light open. I dont know how relevant that is.
2. Maybe wiring 2 gauges together off one 12v source wasnt a good idea? Maybe too much load? im not sure
3. I forgot to reconnect the window switches back from the center console.
4. My soldering was too poor and causing problems?

What is most likely the culprit of this? And anyway I can test that everything is okay without having to see if the battery overheats again?

Thanks for the replies any and all help is appreciated

 

I don't think the problem is going to be any of those 4 things.

Pretty much everything in the vehicle is fused. The main battery cable isn't though. That's where I'd be looking. A good quick test would be to measure for continuity between the positive battery clamp and ground with the battery disconnected and the battery clamp not contacting the body.

 

So let me get this clear. I should disconnect the battery from the positive and negative terminals. Then set my multimeter to continuity mode. Touch the positive to positive and negative to the negative on the battery wires and see if I hear it beep? If yes then what would that mean? Everything is okay?

 

Do that except have the main 80amp fuse removed.

If it beeps you have a short to ground somewhere on that unfused large gauge wire.

 

I did the test but without taking the 80 amp fuse out just because I didn't read this before hand. My multimeter is the cheap kind that doesn't beep. But it does show numbers raising when there's continuity. And yes the numbers started rising when I touched the probes to the terminals. So does that mean I have a short? Or should I go back and do the test taking the 80 amp fuse out?

 

Alright I should have done this sooner but here's the diagram.

You actually need to remove the main fuse and the 30 amp injector/fuel pump fuse. As you can see the run from the battery to these fuses is unfused. A short there, before the fuses, will make things hot and smokey.

Removing the fuses insures that we are testing only that wire for a short to ground.

What meter do you have? We need to make sure you're actually measuring continuity.

 

I have this cheapo multimeter

And I will try doing that tomorrow then. Is the 30A injector fuse in the same box as the 80A main fuse?

 

http://www.all-sun.com/manual/Dt830_en.pdf

That appears to be a manual for your meter. It tells you how to measure continuity. Your meter beeps at <50 ohms you just didn't RTFM.

I'm not going to attempt to answer the second question because it's quicker for you to look in the damn box first. I don't own an NB. The diagram for a NA shows it as a 100 amp. It's a 80 on a NA. At least attempt to find answers to basic **** like that first. Also, on a NA that fuse actually unbolts. It doesn't just unplug. You can search and figure out if it's the same on a NB yourself.

My hand is getting clammy.