No connection to DIY PNP
#1
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No connection to DIY PNP
Hi
MS noobie here asking your help, so I ask humbly please dont bash me.
Car is 1991 Eunos Roadster MazdaSpeed 1.6 and it has Fuji Racing ITBs and they did work with Piggypack.
I dont know anything about electronics or MS. So thats why I bought DIY PNP and got someone more familiar to build it.
Now Im having MS in car and cpu that has working cable (its been tested via hyperterminal and works), but no connection to MS. Not when in car or when connected to 12v. Running tunerstudio and trying to do what said here but no luck what so ever.
Wondering am I doing something wrong or did the builder build it right?
Heres pics how PNP looks inside, just if someone can pick something wrong there.
Click for big pics
Thank you and yes I should bought pnp from here
MS noobie here asking your help, so I ask humbly please dont bash me.
Car is 1991 Eunos Roadster MazdaSpeed 1.6 and it has Fuji Racing ITBs and they did work with Piggypack.
I dont know anything about electronics or MS. So thats why I bought DIY PNP and got someone more familiar to build it.
Now Im having MS in car and cpu that has working cable (its been tested via hyperterminal and works), but no connection to MS. Not when in car or when connected to 12v. Running tunerstudio and trying to do what said here but no luck what so ever.
Wondering am I doing something wrong or did the builder build it right?
Heres pics how PNP looks inside, just if someone can pick something wrong there.
Click for big pics
Thank you and yes I should bought pnp from here
#3
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Thank you for answering.
No firmware, didnt get any connection to the box to do so (or am I stupid and it should be done first some how and then I can get connection to the box?)
Portcheck exe? Dunno, but tried hyperterminal and we see that cable works. (I have help from friend whos better with PCs)
Were running USB to serial (DB9) that has been check'd (pins 2 & 3 connect and hypertext shows it works)
Does the wiring in pics look "even bit there"?
No firmware, didnt get any connection to the box to do so (or am I stupid and it should be done first some how and then I can get connection to the box?)
Portcheck exe? Dunno, but tried hyperterminal and we see that cable works. (I have help from friend whos better with PCs)
Were running USB to serial (DB9) that has been check'd (pins 2 & 3 connect and hypertext shows it works)
Does the wiring in pics look "even bit there"?
#4
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wiring, at a glance, looks good. Although I cant tell if the BL/TH and/or BOOT jumpers are in place...they should NOT be.
there could be no wires on the board and you should still be able to connect the the microsquirt module. maybe your 12v adapter is no good?
there could be no wires on the board and you should still be able to connect the the microsquirt module. maybe your 12v adapter is no good?
#5
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The ECU won't connect to your laptop before loading code to it.
To load MS2/Extra code:
A. Download this folder, and make sure it's at c/programfiles/megasquirt: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/...t_20100413.zip
1. Place the boot jumper (located to the right of the INPUT 1 label and above the IGN1 - IGN2 - WLED - ALED jumper) across both pins.
2. Connect the DIYPNP to your computer using the serial port. If MegaTune or other tuning software is running, close it.
3. Power up the DIYPNP. This can be done on a car or you can plug our Stimulator / DIYPNP power supply into the supplied 12 volt port next to the DB15. If loading the code on the car, be sure to unplug the coils and injectors.
4. Go into the Program Files/MegaSquirt folder and open the MS2/Extra 303T folder.
5. Open the program called download-MS2-firmware.bat.
6. This program will first ask you a couple of questions about loading the code; tell it you have a MicroSquirt and which COM port you are using. Specify that you are upgrading from standard B&G firmware.
* Caution: Loading the MS2/Extra version for a full sized MegaSquirt will cause problems with the ignition output, and may even damage your ignition system. Be sure you load it with the MicroSquirt version of the firmware.
7. The program will load a new bootloader, at which point you will remove the bootloader jumper, power down the DIYPNP, then power it up again. Once you have pressed a key to continue, the utility will continue to load the MS2/Extra code. It will end with a message stating that verification has succeeded. You can now connect to the DIYPNP with MegaTune or TunerStudio.
To load MS2/Extra code:
A. Download this folder, and make sure it's at c/programfiles/megasquirt: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/...t_20100413.zip
1. Place the boot jumper (located to the right of the INPUT 1 label and above the IGN1 - IGN2 - WLED - ALED jumper) across both pins.
2. Connect the DIYPNP to your computer using the serial port. If MegaTune or other tuning software is running, close it.
3. Power up the DIYPNP. This can be done on a car or you can plug our Stimulator / DIYPNP power supply into the supplied 12 volt port next to the DB15. If loading the code on the car, be sure to unplug the coils and injectors.
4. Go into the Program Files/MegaSquirt folder and open the MS2/Extra 303T folder.
5. Open the program called download-MS2-firmware.bat.
6. This program will first ask you a couple of questions about loading the code; tell it you have a MicroSquirt and which COM port you are using. Specify that you are upgrading from standard B&G firmware.
* Caution: Loading the MS2/Extra version for a full sized MegaSquirt will cause problems with the ignition output, and may even damage your ignition system. Be sure you load it with the MicroSquirt version of the firmware.
7. The program will load a new bootloader, at which point you will remove the bootloader jumper, power down the DIYPNP, then power it up again. Once you have pressed a key to continue, the utility will continue to load the MS2/Extra code. It will end with a message stating that verification has succeeded. You can now connect to the DIYPNP with MegaTune or TunerStudio.
#7
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Thank you all alot.
Great to know that there isnt anything wrong, just that empty cpu's most often hardly do anything
We'll try more today. I just assumed while not knowing anything that it being PNP and build by someone knowing, that it would have it in it.
Great to know that there isnt anything wrong, just that empty cpu's most often hardly do anything
We'll try more today. I just assumed while not knowing anything that it being PNP and build by someone knowing, that it would have it in it.
#8
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The ECU won't connect to your laptop before loading code to it.
To load MS2/Extra code:
A. Download this folder, and make sure it's at c/programfiles/megasquirt: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/...t_20100413.zip
1. Place the boot jumper (located to the right of the INPUT 1 label and above the IGN1 - IGN2 - WLED - ALED jumper) across both pins.
2. Connect the DIYPNP to your computer using the serial port. If MegaTune or other tuning software is running, close it.
3. Power up the DIYPNP. This can be done on a car or you can plug our Stimulator / DIYPNP power supply into the supplied 12 volt port next to the DB15. If loading the code on the car, be sure to unplug the coils and injectors.
4. Go into the Program Files/MegaSquirt folder and open the MS2/Extra 303T folder.
5. Open the program called download-MS2-firmware.bat.
6. This program will first ask you a couple of questions about loading the code; tell it you have a MicroSquirt and which COM port you are using. Specify that you are upgrading from standard B&G firmware.
* Caution: Loading the MS2/Extra version for a full sized MegaSquirt will cause problems with the ignition output, and may even damage your ignition system. Be sure you load it with the MicroSquirt version of the firmware.
7. The program will load a new bootloader, at which point you will remove the bootloader jumper, power down the DIYPNP, then power it up again. Once you have pressed a key to continue, the utility will continue to load the MS2/Extra code. It will end with a message stating that verification has succeeded. You can now connect to the DIYPNP with MegaTune or TunerStudio.
To load MS2/Extra code:
A. Download this folder, and make sure it's at c/programfiles/megasquirt: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/...t_20100413.zip
1. Place the boot jumper (located to the right of the INPUT 1 label and above the IGN1 - IGN2 - WLED - ALED jumper) across both pins.
2. Connect the DIYPNP to your computer using the serial port. If MegaTune or other tuning software is running, close it.
3. Power up the DIYPNP. This can be done on a car or you can plug our Stimulator / DIYPNP power supply into the supplied 12 volt port next to the DB15. If loading the code on the car, be sure to unplug the coils and injectors.
4. Go into the Program Files/MegaSquirt folder and open the MS2/Extra 303T folder.
5. Open the program called download-MS2-firmware.bat.
6. This program will first ask you a couple of questions about loading the code; tell it you have a MicroSquirt and which COM port you are using. Specify that you are upgrading from standard B&G firmware.
* Caution: Loading the MS2/Extra version for a full sized MegaSquirt will cause problems with the ignition output, and may even damage your ignition system. Be sure you load it with the MicroSquirt version of the firmware.
7. The program will load a new bootloader, at which point you will remove the bootloader jumper, power down the DIYPNP, then power it up again. Once you have pressed a key to continue, the utility will continue to load the MS2/Extra code. It will end with a message stating that verification has succeeded. You can now connect to the DIYPNP with MegaTune or TunerStudio.
Now I have two jumpers in my hand that I presume I wont be putting back, am I correct?
Also TunerStudio wanted to update current project to 3.03.
Will take it to car and see if I can start it.
Cant remember when I have been as exited.
#9
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I just update my "more ignition options" and pressed "burn" while everything was connected. Did I just fry my coils etc?
Cos no luck with starting, not even half turn.
edit
Well, my fuel injectors leaked #1 cyl full gas
Cos no luck with starting, not even half turn.
edit
Well, my fuel injectors leaked #1 cyl full gas
Last edited by samulis; 05-05-2010 at 12:34 PM.
#10
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you can burn to your hearts desire... it's when you flash the firmware the coils must be disconnected.
if the car is failing to even crank at all, then it's the fault of your battery.
Why are you fooling with the ignition settings?
if the car is failing to even crank at all, then it's the fault of your battery.
Why are you fooling with the ignition settings?
#11
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Im setting up software.
Got sone one in Phone who knows more about MS than I do. So far at least ingition timing wrong and only two injectors spraying in cold start so I'll have to look there to fix it.
Thank you all for your help.
Got sone one in Phone who knows more about MS than I do. So far at least ingition timing wrong and only two injectors spraying in cold start so I'll have to look there to fix it.
Thank you all for your help.
Last edited by samulis; 05-05-2010 at 02:50 PM. Reason: more details
#12
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I have new problem, spraying injectors that fill throttles and cylinders. Started with #2 and #4 and after changing different injectors it now appers at #1 and #3. Plus fan is on all the time.
Could this be the problem?
MS was build using this harness pinout and the car is JDM model. I have read from some where that it has different pinout?
Click for big pics
Could this be the problem?
MS was build using this harness pinout and the car is JDM model. I have read from some where that it has different pinout?
Click for big pics
#13
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Your injectors (middle of that picture 4 red wires going to 2 seperate places on the breakout board) are wired to both 4U and 4Y, (2U & 2Y in the boosted miata link)
which is correct.
BUT they're also wired to your igntion outputs. 1G & 1H, god knows what else is wrong!
Play hell with whoever built it
which is correct.
BUT they're also wired to your igntion outputs. 1G & 1H, god knows what else is wrong!
Play hell with whoever built it
Last edited by samulis; 05-07-2010 at 08:18 AM.
#14
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not sure on the fuel thing.
your fans is on that green.yellow wire with only four wires. Looks like that's going back to your serial connector.
I'm completely baffled to why it's built like that, i'm sure if you unplug your serial connector the fan will turn off.
You need to review these pinouts and make sure your jumper wires are going to the correct place:
http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...NP+Pinouts.xls
(in this configuration you must unplug your TPS connector)
your fans is on that green.yellow wire with only four wires. Looks like that's going back to your serial connector.
I'm completely baffled to why it's built like that, i'm sure if you unplug your serial connector the fan will turn off.
You need to review these pinouts and make sure your jumper wires are going to the correct place:
http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...NP+Pinouts.xls
(in this configuration you must unplug your TPS connector)
#15
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not sure on the fuel thing.You need to review these pinouts and make sure your jumper wires are going to the correct place:
http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...NP+Pinouts.xls
(in this configuration you must unplug your TPS connector)
http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...NP+Pinouts.xls
(in this configuration you must unplug your TPS connector)
This is what I found out while looking pinouts and board
There should be wire and there isnt anything::
TPS SIG to 4L
These should be empty and they'r not
TACH should be empty, goes to 4 I
FUEL should be empty, goes to 4 T
PAO goes to 1 R
TPS SIG to 4L
These should be empty and they'r not
TACH should be empty, goes to 4 I
FUEL should be empty, goes to 4 T
PAO goes to 1 R
Last edited by samulis; 05-08-2010 at 08:28 AM.
#16
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Original TPS is removed and there is GM IAT wired in to it. There is variable TPS that came with Fuji Racing.
Also now that I found it, there was pin in BL/TH that I removed today.
Also now that I found it, there was pin in BL/TH that I removed today.
Last edited by samulis; 05-08-2010 at 07:04 AM.
#19
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I do get fuel that we check'd and tunerstudio show'd at botton that it is crancking. I need to check the rpm's (yes, friend said that there was rpm's). I think problem could be in ignition settings.
Also I have base timing at 12* instead of 10*, I cant really do adjust it before it's running?
Also I never got how to build booklet from the builder (bit scary but he said there wasnt one, but he's built ten's MS2) so I cant really check whats roght and whats wrong on the board it self
Also I have base timing at 12* instead of 10*, I cant really do adjust it before it's running?
Also I never got how to build booklet from the builder (bit scary but he said there wasnt one, but he's built ten's MS2) so I cant really check whats roght and whats wrong on the board it self
Last edited by samulis; 05-10-2010 at 04:21 AM.