Hello everyone, i am a new member here. I joined when i bought my miata about six months ago after driving a 944 for a year. The miata is a great improvement and im loving it so far. Only issue ive noticed is a lack of power which i intend to fix via a turbo setup. However that is to come later. Ive decided to install megasquirt first.

First thing is i bought ms1 v2.2, yes i know should have gotten 3.0 but ive assembled per the megamanual. And this is the point i am currently at. Ive been searching, and searching, with little information found. I was planning on running parallel, just controlling ignition, fuel and timing. However i was hoping for some opinions on standalone with the 2.2. The main issue is the mods i have to do, also the harness. The parallel harness looks downright scary. Also all the standalone mods are using a 3.0 board, and im not sure how to perform them on my board. if anyone could point me in the right direction thatd be excellent.

My winter break for college will soon be arriving, and i hope to spend as much time as i can hopefully getting this thing in the car and running.

Thanks in advance
John M

 

Jump D5, D8

that will get you running. Use pin 11 for second trigger on the CPU. Bringing it in through X11. Using X14 and X13 for spark outputs. This is will leave you with one spare input/output. You could put fan control on D18 and out X12.

you need to upgrade Q5 to the PWM idle valve mod and bolt the FET to the case.


build Db37 like this:




and harness like this:




since there is no pin 36 on the v2.2, that would be the green/white wire that I labeled clutch IIRC. Whatever matches to X14 or X13. Just double check what's on pins 25, 27, 29 and 31.

 

wow thanks for the quick response. Couple questions. The blue lead, is that a 300 ohm resister? And 470 ohm for the red?

On a side not brain, i dont live far from you. Any chance you could pm me a price for modding my squirt to be standalone and building a harness? If your too busy no problem.

 

Is the MS already assembled?

 

Yes, other than what you have listed above. Im just curious?

 

I think I have one connector left to build a harness, I'd charge $60 for that, then the mods to the MS would be an additional $20 for the time to due then and then loading in software and such.

edit, sorry for the erroneous edit.
-hustler

 

I'll do it all for $60, but it will be soaked in koala urine before I return it to you. Let me know if you're interested. I should also note that I'm a quadriplegic Afrikan-Native American and my legal name is Dikembe Lieswithbuffalo. It is your American duty to embrace my diversity, financially.

On a side note, I vote for Brain considering I'm installing one of his builds in a friend's car on Sunday.

 

Just FWIW.

Here's how I modded your v2.2 board for miata MS-I mods. In case anyone else needs to know.

 

Wow that looks great Brain, thanks again.

 

So just so I don't screw this up, I'm going to take a crack at summarizing the mods in the pictures above (and follow up with some questions):

- V2.2 w/ latest firmware of MSnS-E
- 1.6L coils

- 2 x 470 and 1 x 1k resistors (and D5 and D8 jumped) for tach input
- 270 ohm resistors for coil A and coil B spark outputs (pin 31 and 36)
- cap mod filter
- PWM idle mod
- fan control relay to pin 27
- LAUNCH IN??

Questions
- What is the LAUNCH IN mod? Required for launch control (personally not desired)?
- Will the PWM work fine with 1.8L air valve?
- Best to buy PWM kit from DIY (http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/p...4fcc391ae7fbcf)
- I plan to run standalone.. simplest way to control fuel pump is?
- Is the fan control 'out' switched ground or power (so I can wire up my relay correctly)?

Thanks so much guys, finding it tough to track down instructions/knowledge on the MS1 V2.2, but it is the board I have (built WAY back when they first came out.. ) but never got around to using.

Cheers

 

1. it's the clutch switch input to use launch control. no you dont need it.
2. yes.
3. sure, or you can buy the extra parts at radioshack.
4. run the MS FP output from pin 37 to your oem harness on pin 2O. that will bring it to your AFM connector....then just that wire with the pin that normal grounds the fuel pump relay.
5. switched ground. But why would you need to fool with relays?

 

Awesome, thanks for the clear answers!

PS: No radioshack up here in the great white north. Anybody interested in selling me the parts required for these mods (PWM mod, a few resistors, that cap, some of that nice crossover wire)? Figure some folks on here (looking at your Braineack) might have a stock pile of such parts and wouldn't mind selling at a bit of a mark up?

Cheers

 

I sneeze parts like that...

 

Ha, fair enough. Not sure how to read into that (are you cool with shipping me some parts?) so I sent you to a PM to discuss.

Thanks

 

My problem is I never have stamps or envelopes and I hate going to the PO.