New to megasquirt, doing my best but would appreciate a little direction
#22
why not ask for a basemap that's actually correct for your car? and then maybe like installation instructions so you understand exactly how to sync the timing?
Because here what's going to happen: you'll never get it running right and do stupid things like unplugging the idle valve in an odd attempt to solving the problem. You wont ever tune it properly because you don't really seem to want to learn. You'll start blaming me and/or the ms3 for your issues. Your motor will fail and then in a final fit of frustration you'll end up pulling the MS3 and set it on fire using vodka as a fuel source.
Because here what's going to happen: you'll never get it running right and do stupid things like unplugging the idle valve in an odd attempt to solving the problem. You wont ever tune it properly because you don't really seem to want to learn. You'll start blaming me and/or the ms3 for your issues. Your motor will fail and then in a final fit of frustration you'll end up pulling the MS3 and set it on fire using vodka as a fuel source.
#24
MS2 and MS3s have a trigger wizard in the "tool" menu that'll tell you exactly what it's idling at. If you're having trouble getting a rock solid idle degree, select the area it's idling in and set it all to the same degree, somewhere in the 14-18 range. You then need to change the "ignition offset angle" so what you're reading with the timing light matches what the trigger wizard is displaying.
The brain, as usual, is right though. You need to start with a base map made for your ecu, and made for your engine. No more guessing should be happening.
Basic install:
1. physical install: plug in ecu, map line, wideband.
2. verify connectivity: make sure you're getting a reading from tps, map, ait, and afr.
3. load base map
4. set req_fuel for your engine/injectors.
5. set timing once started and warmed up
6. don't touch base map ignition.
7. autotune fuel map with street driving
8. go to dyno and tune ignition map for powah.
#26
So I just was spraying carb cleaner at the top of the intake manifold in front of/above the injectors and tho no idle was changing at all, it did look like the carb cleaner was moving around and going down, like it was getting sucked in... Wierd the idle didnt change at all though. Ill buy new injector seals and an intake manifold gasket. Maybe all new vacuum hoses while Im at it lol. Im sure I'll be able to get it running well once I fix this stupid leak. Does this sound like Im on the right track?
#27
Well I am trying to follow all of your advice here, did a new intake manifold gasket and throttle body gasket and my vacuum leak is finally fixed! Car runs much better now. I was using the tune that came on the car from the guy I bought it from. I was told the best thing to do would be get a stock tune for my motor and put it on there...but if I get the one from DIYAutoTune it wants to change my firmware(to MS2) and all my sensor settings. Is there a way to only transfer the afr, ignition, and fuel VE tables without changing anything else? Or would that be unwise? I appreciate the direction I have gotten so far from you guys so thank you.
#28
You'll want to start afresh with a new stock complete basemap for your engine/year. Go through it methodically from the start, setting up timing and calibrating the senders for your engine. As much as anything else this starts to build familiarity with it. DON'T expect to use any of the previous owners map/tune on a different engine.
Maybe Braineack can supply one?
I'm not familiar with Brain's MS3 builds but I assume there would have been some wiring mods required to reconfigure the pinout for your year/engine from the previous owners 1.8?
Maybe Braineack can supply one?
I'm not familiar with Brain's MS3 builds but I assume there would have been some wiring mods required to reconfigure the pinout for your year/engine from the previous owners 1.8?
#32
Yes definately. I got it with the modified fuel harness, and temp sensor with a prewired plug to the old AFM connector. I added in a wideband the same day.
What I cant figure out is why my vacuum seems so low, what is the NORMAL Kpa for a 1.6 motor? It seems like I have a vacuum leak even though I have replaced everything and cant find it anywhere. On steady throttle it seems to go lean a bit, as well as on starts or light throttle adds. Ive been messing with the accel enrichment a bit and it helps but I think maybe the Vtps I got is iffy. It doesnt change percentage linearly with the throttle and doesnt detect LIGHT throttle, which then is causing it to lean out. Idk if its a tps and accell enrichment issue or a vacuum issue but I'm figuring it out.
What I cant figure out is why my vacuum seems so low, what is the NORMAL Kpa for a 1.6 motor? It seems like I have a vacuum leak even though I have replaced everything and cant find it anywhere. On steady throttle it seems to go lean a bit, as well as on starts or light throttle adds. Ive been messing with the accel enrichment a bit and it helps but I think maybe the Vtps I got is iffy. It doesnt change percentage linearly with the throttle and doesnt detect LIGHT throttle, which then is causing it to lean out. Idk if its a tps and accell enrichment issue or a vacuum issue but I'm figuring it out.
#35
On an MS2 the settings look a bit like this: DIYPNP Sequential Upgrade - DIYAutoTune.com
#38
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Ah gotcha,no worries.
I believe aidandj is referring to the Megasquirt Map rather than the hardware.
On an MS2 the settings look a bit like this: DIYPNP Sequential Upgrade - DIYAutoTune.com
I believe aidandj is referring to the Megasquirt Map rather than the hardware.
On an MS2 the settings look a bit like this: DIYPNP Sequential Upgrade - DIYAutoTune.com