Hey guys. I got an MS3 from here on the forums by a user selling his, built by Braineack. I have everything hooked up and wired in finally, and am getting rather frustrated and very discouraged and confused. When I turn the key, the injectors turn on, buzz real loud, also I have it hooked up to Tunerstudio, and it will start and Idle pretty well, but thats it. If I give it a blip of throttle, it dies. Idk if both of these problems have to do with each other or not. The Harness has been swapped out for one made by Braineack as well that is set up for sequential injection, idk if that maybe has something to do with them switching on prematurely or not? Anyways, if any of you are an expert at these things I really need help. I have had this sitting around the last month and my stock ecu started having issues so I decided to swap this in now...and now I need to drive the car for work tomorrow.

 

Post msq and log

 

Was the map changed?

Buzz is incorrect idle valve frequncy.

Stall is wrong injector size.

 

I am an idiot, I could have sworn it was the injectors but it WAS idle valve. I'm taking a break for dinner. Any advice Braineack? I have a mechanical mind, all this electronic stuff is new to me and a bit overwhelming...

 

What size injectors do you have? And what does the "basic engine constraints" or whatever it's called say for required fuel?

 

Im eating dinner, not familiar with Basic Engine Constraints or anything similar? But I have 230cc(stock) injectors and the guy I got it from had 1.8 so I think 265cc? Do I need to change a table or just change a setting for inj. size?

 

Just the required fuel, which is based off your engine size and injector size mostly.

It would run fine if it was only going from 265 to 230, barely too lean. I think Braineack and I were both expecting someting like 400+ turbo injector settings while phyisically using stock sized.

Edit: Google FTW!

Under Basic/load settings, open "engine and sequential settings"

You'll see this menu:



click the required fuel button and it'll open this handy calculator, make sure all your units are correct.



Should be 1800 (CC), 4 cylinders, 230cc/min, and 14.7 for the air-fuel ratio.

 

I will do that! Thank you very much Curly. I've been browsing this site and seen you around the last 5 years but never have posted much, I've been on Miata.net. After I learn more and figure all this nonsense out I'll look forward to contributing to the community! Also I probably should add flair so people know. It'll be 1600cc not 1800! Haha at least for the next several months that is.

 

If you have a 1.6 you may have other issues like TPS being different. Do you have a MAP sensor or are you using the original AFM?

 

I put in a variable TPS and it seems to be working fine, it calibrated fine. I took out the AFM and its running on MAP now.

 

OP did you ever sync the timing with the MS3?

Check VE tables and Target table?

I am kind of new to TunerStudio myself.

 

I never did sync the timing, I just set the car to 10 degrees before hooking up the MS3. I think I need to calibrate that and possibly the 02 sensor as well?

 

no. you should continue with the fingers-crossed method of EFI tuning.

 

Haha hey its all I know right now and I'm real good at saying prayers

 

 

Hahaha Oh god. Im getting everything mounted and putting it back together now.

 

The buzz is gone now that I unplugged the idle valve. Stall is mostly gone now and I can actually drive the car. It drives okay. It tends to really lean out when I just touch the throttle. If I give it a good bit of gas then the AFR stays between 12-14, but if I try to give it a blip it bogs and leans out real bad. Any reason for this? Improperly done TPS? Unplugged Idle Valve(Car has never idled better by the way) I have to drive up to LA from San Diego tomorrow so I want to make sure I at least have it running decent enough to not hurt anything.

 

You never said if you set base timing after this.. have you done that yet?

 

I set it to 10 in Megasquirt after everything, but have not physically done it with the CAS...do I need to jump the ten+gnd jumpers and reset it to 10 again? Then I can play with spark advance in MS?

 

why not ask for a basemap that's actually correct for your car? and then maybe like installation instructions so you understand exactly how to sync the timing?

Because here what's going to happen: you'll never get it running right and do stupid things like unplugging the idle valve in an odd attempt to solving the problem. You wont ever tune it properly because you don't really seem to want to learn. You'll start blaming me and/or the ms3 for your issues. Your motor will fail and then in a final fit of frustration you'll end up pulling the MS3 and set it on fire using vodka as a fuel source.