Need some help figuring out WOT bucking(logs included)
#1
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For some reason, any time I try to go wot, I get a crazy buck/reset that damn near causes me to smash my face on the wheel. In nearly every other situation, the car drives near/better than stock. I took a look at my logs and everything is all over the place where it bucks, which makes it a little difficult to pinpoint exactly where to start looking. Any help would be appreciated.
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It does sound like classic overboost cut or spark blowout but I see you aren't boosted. Probably bad grounds.
You said it's when you go WOT but in the log I am looking at you only reach 52% tps. Come to think of it you are 92 so you don't even have vTPS so the fact that that is changing from 8 to 9 to 39 to 52 makes me think even more that you have some wiring issues. Check all your wiring on the harness. Make sure pins on the connecters aren't touching from too much solder.
You said it's when you go WOT but in the log I am looking at you only reach 52% tps. Come to think of it you are 92 so you don't even have vTPS so the fact that that is changing from 8 to 9 to 39 to 52 makes me think even more that you have some wiring issues. Check all your wiring on the harness. Make sure pins on the connecters aren't touching from too much solder.
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Every reset on that log is a time when we went WOT and the car started freaking out. I usually dont get resets just driving around. My injectors are stock, but will be swapped out for 450's when they arrive in the mail. I think im going to go grab my harness out of the car really quick and take a peek.
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Alright, took a few pics of my harness ( sorry about quality, phone cam ). Picasa Web Albums - Jeffery - harness pictures
I think that I'll try cleaning up my grounds at the block. I've also considered the possibility of a dying cas as the signals in my logs for porta,portb, etc. all look like ****, plus reading Joe's posts makes me a pessamist about NA electronics
I think that I'll try cleaning up my grounds at the block. I've also considered the possibility of a dying cas as the signals in my logs for porta,portb, etc. all look like ****, plus reading Joe's posts makes me a pessamist about NA electronics
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I want to get basic street drivability taken care of with the 450s and the 190hp before I install my stuff from begi. This is my daily driver, and even though I have the option of driving the wife's car, she really hates that
. Scientific method, one thing at a time.
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I don't know if this is usually a problem for you guys running the MS, but there is a wire at the back of the intake on the 1.6 that caused some nasty noise for the Adaptronic. It would drive fine at low loads but high load you never new what was going to happen. Check here to see.
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I want to get basic street drivability taken care of with the 450s and the 190hp before I install my stuff from begi. This is my daily driver, and even though I have the option of driving the wife's car, she really hates that
. Scientific method, one thing at a time.
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I don't know if this is usually a problem for you guys running the MS, but there is a wire at the back of the intake on the 1.6 that caused some nasty noise for the Adaptronic. It would drive fine at low loads but high load you never new what was going to happen. Check here to see.
black/lt green is a ground. if that was cut, that's a grounding issue :P
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I don't know if this is usually a problem for you guys running the MS, but there is a wire at the back of the intake on the 1.6 that caused some nasty noise for the Adaptronic. It would drive fine at low loads but high load you never new what was going to happen. Check here to see.
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It may be Brainiac ftw here. Those couple of spots where stuff was shrink wrapped together ( notably the brown ignitor wire and the blue/white cas signal wire ) were touching other pins on adapter plug side. that could have been causing a SHITLOAD of interference with my cas signal.
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Went out for a drive ( to work :( ) and still no go. I'm going to try re-routing that signal ground, but I really dont think thats the issue as my signals look pretty clean. If thats not the issue, I'll try running additional grounds from the ms to the block, and if all else fails, shielded cas wires / new cas :(
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*Fixed*
Did some reading, and on a whim, pulled my plugs. HOLY FREAKIN ****. 1. they were so corroded, it felt like they were jb-welded into the head ( the previous owner's dad is a mazda mechanic, before they sold it to me he said he did a "full tune up" on the car ... me not double checking = fail ). 2. They were gapped to .065" which was partly due to worn electrodes. Slapped in a fresh set of bkr7e's gapped to .025 and all of my problems went away. Funny how its always the simple stuff eh?
Did some reading, and on a whim, pulled my plugs. HOLY FREAKIN ****. 1. they were so corroded, it felt like they were jb-welded into the head ( the previous owner's dad is a mazda mechanic, before they sold it to me he said he did a "full tune up" on the car ... me not double checking = fail ). 2. They were gapped to .065" which was partly due to worn electrodes. Slapped in a fresh set of bkr7e's gapped to .025 and all of my problems went away. Funny how its always the simple stuff eh?
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