Hi,

now that I took the step and got on to build my MS3x after Franks MS3X(PNP) described here: http://westfieldmx5.devocht.com/megasquirt/99-05-ms3/ I sure as hell have the first problems...

First the good things - I did build all the things on the 3.0 board after Franks description and it seems to work - I could actually flash the firmware and load an MSQ. (So thats fine to me.)

I measured all the voltage and get correct 5V readings -



But at the 12V points I only get 10.75 V... (is that a problem) the power is coming from a Jimstim (reading 11.5 V there.)

How can I check if R52 is set correctly? I did the calibration of R56.
Please help me about this...

Now the bloody problem - when I took of the daughterboard to go on, I sure as hell bent the two lower pins (1 and 40) and Nr. 1 broke off when I tried to bend it back... I could solder the pin back on, and things seem to work (but I am afraid if I have to take the board off once more). I think I need to send the board to James in the U.K. to get new pins soldered... (or maybe I could go to an electronics company here and ask them to solder new pins on...?)

Other than that - at the moment I am happy that I can read and write to the MS... Now get on with the wiring to the 64pin ECU connector.

Greets

 

Never mind the 10.75V, it'll be fine once you have it in the car (or raise the jimstim input voltage).
R52 needs no adjustment. Leave if fully counterclockwise.

 

You could remove an unused pin like IAC1B (37) or IAC2B (35) and replace pin 1 with it. See http://msextra.com/doc/general/pix/v3pcb_1-ms3.gif ps, if you have suggestions for my how-to please share them so I can make the instructions more clear.

 

Just resolder the pin and move along.

next time you pull off the board, use a long solid device, like a table knife, to pry it up from the underside on each side, then once you can lift it straight.

 

@Frank, what did you have in mind with all your extra wiring in your own MS3x?
What did you prepare for?

 

I have an S2000 instrument cluster and needed some pins to bring in the VR signal from the transmission. I convert that to a square wave (extra VR in proto) and send it to JB's PWM converter to multiply by 32. That goes back out the MS towards the speedo.
I have the oil pressure signal coming in on ADC13 to have an oil pressure gauge in TunerStudio. I'm sending the signal back out to my oil pressure light as well (no oil pressure gauge in the S2000 cluster).
I'm also planning on installing cops and a shift light which will take up a fair amount of outputs.

 

Ah, o.k.

 

So I have my build done quite far (gonna post pics soon).

One more question though - I wan't to build my EGT circuit in the proto area of the v3.0 board - where can I take the +12V from - means where on the board have we got +12v usable for the circuit.

As I do the MS3Xpnp like Frank S12c is used for the jumper to JS9, Pin 28 is used for the jumper wire to the +12v to IAC, middle pin of Q2 is jumpered to pin 1B of my ECU connector. Anywhere else to take from or take from one of these points?

Thanks!

 

do you not have the X card?

 

I have! And...?

 

and your EGT sensor/controller outputs 0-5v?

n/m, didnt realize the amplifer circuit still had to be built....

 

You can use S12 or S12C.

 

No, its a simple K-Type sensor

 

You will need to build a conditioner (amplifier). You can not interface the thermocouple directly. Several options are shown in the manual:
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/egt.html

We stock a small mod kit that includes the AD595 thermocouple amp.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/g...put-p-458.html
Maybe you find one locally, if not they're on our site.

 

He realizes that, I'm the one who was confusedededed.

 

You can take 12V at the non-banded side of D3 (anode). If you put a jumper in D3, you even have 4 new 12V points (C13, C14, D21 and pin 6 of U4).

 

Here are the promised pics:







I got some more questions:

As I wired my Zeitronix WB in the DIYPNP directly through the DB15 connector (+12V and ground / sensor ground) and want to do this here as well - which grounds should I take - pins 14-16 on the main connector or rather the ground pads at the proto area? I ask because I am afraid of noise - at the DIYPNP there are extra grounds for noisy things...

 

Once moreabout the +12V on the V3 board - I tried the banded end of D3 yesterday and got nothing...

I wired the +12v of the EGT circuit to S12c for now.

 

Sorry my fault, it's the anode like I mentioned, but anode is the non-banded side of course . Pretty easy to measure though.

 

Ah - test that tomorrow thanks!

EDIT: D3 works of course!