Goingnowherefast

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,

I just wanted to make a quick review of my experience with my brothers 2004 Miata. Basically I want to briefly go over the kit, the actual unit itself, the instructions and any other aspect to the installation that's relevant. I will fill this thread with pictures/video's in the future of the process, but for now I will stick to the "nitty gritty". This was done with MSLabs MS3 Enhanced for the 01-05 Miata. I used a 5 point rating scale that goes as the following:

5 = Literally perfect, no changes needed
4 = Great, but 1-2 things could be improved
3 = Moderate, lots of improvement to be had
2 = Bad, missed the mark
1 = Sucks *****, should have gotten an NC because you can program stock ECU

Preamble:

-The product: (This is a cached link) http://www.trackspeedengineering.com...MS3-Basic.html
-The instructions: https://trackspeedengineering.com/fi...20V3%20140.pdf
-The car: 2004 Mazda Miata: Cobalt Intake, midpipe/test pipe (no cat), cat-back, 93 octane
-The people: Schmuck 1 and Schmuck 2: (My brother and I). My brother has very limited if any knowledge on standalones/electrical anything. I've done a few MS installs myself and I do CANbus programming to a limited extent and some PT calibration at work (automotive engineer).
-The extras: AEM X series wideband/UEGO (Badass piece of equipment. Best gauge/sender on the market by FAR), GM IAT (DIYAutotune.com)

The Installation (4/5):

Being that I've already done a couple megasquirt installations, it's pretty straight forward. The instructions that I've linked above are decent, but could maybe use pictures to help others out. That would be the factor that would make the instructions a 5/5.

1. Install IAT -> For NB2's you cut the OEM IAT, and splice in the GM sensor (no polarity so it doesn't matter which wires) -> then put in the intake piping
2. Install wideband -> Remove 02, install new 02 -> wire into the car, extend wires (heater ground, sensor ground, sensor analog output and power) to MS enhanced DB37 harness
3. Remove OEM ECU under dash (pain in the ***, but straight forward)
4. Run vacuum line for MAP
5. Plug in new ECU
6. Done with hardware

The software/programming (4/5):

Following the instructions (kind of), makes the initial communication to the ECU easy. However, my one gripe is that it uses a DB9 serial port for data comms? What is it, the 90's? There's deadass no excuse for that not being USB at this point. While serial to USB converters are out there, they are quite expensive for what they are. Just a small issue that seems fixable to me. Otherwise, opening the basemap is easy and on inspection of the basemap everything looks incredible. You can tell a huge amount of time was taken to create a map that would not just start the car, but would damn near run the car like OEM with little to no effort. Here's our extra steps before startup:

1. Calibrate thermistor tables -> GM sensor information is online here: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...-with-pigtail/ We used a bias resistor value of 2490.
2. Select AFR sensor -> AEM X Series
3. Calibrate TPS -> 0-100% throttle
4. Double checked all settings and done

The basemap (4.9/5):

It's always a great feeling when you can not just start the car the first time on a standalone but it starts like OEM. First crank took a little bit longer (added some cranking PW and that fixed that), and it started up and idled like a stock car first try. I was amazed. It literally idles better than my VVT Rotrex car with a DIY MS3 Pro that I've had for years. So the car is idling, here's my next steps:

1. Checked base timing -> 1 degree off (not bad) -> adjusted to 10 and went back to "use table" for timing.
2. After CLT established and all pressures/temps were checked I tuned idle AFR (it was close already)
3. Everything else checked out, the car is ready to drive)

We went out driving for an hour or two to get the car dialed in. This consisted of maybe 90% fuel VE tuning and 10% ignition timing changes. The car drove brilliantly and was very easy to get dialed in. From the drivers seat my brother reports "it's so smooth; even better than stock". The only other changes I did were I turned on and tuned the fuel-cut overrun (because why not save fuel). WOT pulls felt great, the car definitely picked up some power and no knock events could be seen or heard at all. Not even the slightest.

Here's the part that really blew my mind: Everything in the basemap that could be touched was touched. Knock sensor tables, EGO feedback, ignition retard vs. CLT safeties absolutely every protection method was enable and tuned correctly from the get-go. I have no doubts that you could literally plug this ECU in, tune a little bit, and run this car hard everyday with even more protection than the stock ECU ever had. Very very impressed by how thoroughly the basemap was created, and how great of an experience it was to tune vs. my DIY MS3. Only issue we ran in to was I couldn't track down the input for clutch switch. It's usually called: "Launch-in", but that didn't seem to work. We'll revisit that at a later time.

Conclusion (4.5/5):

So why would you spend the extra $300-400 dollars on a pre-built unit? Because the time saved was BEYOND worth it. The damn thing just works. I was able to dial in the car in maybe 1/10th the time is took to dial in my DIY unit. I would highly recommend buying the MSLabs unit over the DIY one. As far as customer service goes, I've heard Revenant is great; however, we we're unable to test this because everything well, just worked.

Pros:

1. More power
2. More midrange
3. Smoother
4. Better throttle response
5. Adjustability

Cons (for us):

1. Can't find the clutch switch input signal
2. No USB *EDIT* It appears that newer versions of this unit DO have a USB
3. Accessory idle up settings a bit too aggressive and can "hunt" rpm for a few seconds

Get it. It's awesome.

jonboy

There should be a USB port on there, as well as the serial port. It's just at the other end above the ECU sockets...

Goingnowherefast

iTrader: (1)

Whoa, we definitely don't have that there. Maybe it's an older version? My brother bought his used so we don't know when it was purchased.

bahurd

iTrader: (8)

That's gotta be really old. Here's a pic of mine I bought mid 2016. You should at least update your review adding a few caveats.


ECU end

DB9 end

jonboy

The USB socket is on the MS3 processor daughterboard, so any MSLabs MS3 based unit should have it!

HowPrayGame

Ease of tuning is great with Revs maps, I have barely changed a few settings and it's already idling smoother than stock. I also have a USB B port I use to hook the unit up to my laptop.

Marioshi

IIRC, the ms3 "enhanced" that my buddy bought did NOT have a USB (while the "Basic" that I bought at the same time, did).

Actually, I wonder if this isn't the enhanced that he sold...

Goingnowherefast

iTrader: (1)

Alright so we confirmed have a MS3 enhanced. It does not have a USB, so maybe it's a basic vs. enhanced deal?

bahurd

iTrader: (8)

Props for the review anyway. Odd the "enhanced" wouldn't have the USB but it's not mentioned either way in the specs. MS Labs ECU Comparison Sheet

cpierr03

You lost me at "deadass" to be honest

Goingnowherefast

iTrader: (1)

So you negcat'd the review because of that? lol

cpierr03

Nope, I just stopped reading.

I reserve my negcats for necros.

Anthony DOnofrio

Hello Goingnowherefast, thanks for this detailed post! I am attempting to download your instructions but rec'd a "page not found" message. Are you able to send me a copy? Or post one here? Thanks