Hey guys. Just finished building and loading firmware to my MS3x. I have been looking but cannot seem to find the base maps for the ms3? I am probably looking right over the damn things, but could yall possibly tell me where to find them and then ridicule me for not knowing??

93 miata all stock

 

Probably best off grabbing one from the mspnppro.

MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com

 

thanks aidandj, i was able to get the car started on that map. It currently acts like it has the 2 step active at 2500rpm, so i need to go through and check over things. hopefully have it sorted out tomorrow.

 

I believe that map has coolant rev limiter turned on by default maybe?

 

That was one of the things I checked but it was set to normal and not coolant based. I will check more things today.

 

fixed the limiter. i had left the 1k ohm resistor out that was supposed to go between 5v and tachselect. put that in and it seems to rev fine now.

I started screwing with idle. idle test works but it doesnt seem to accept it in closed loop. not sure whats up there.

i easily got the AC functioning however as above, it doesnt bump the idle like it should. more dicking around to do but very happy so far. Build start to running took about 8 hours total.

 

so i finally got a chance to drive and tune the car. Spent last week for 4th of july vacation and work travel to Trinidad.

Seems to drive great under normal conditions and idles ok. However it now cuts out at around 5800rpm or so and i can see the rpm sync flashing to red when it happens. I didnt a composite log but my ******* computer died in the middle of it. i will try to take another on my way to work tomorrow. I imagine its something in the cam sensor reading or something.

I will update with a composite log and msq tomorrow. if anyone has a thought on it, let me know.

 

RPM flashing red is a gauge setting. Not a tune.

 

rpm sync is going red

 

Ah. Yeah thats it loosing sync.

Get a composite log of it happening.

 

thats the plan tomorrow.

 

is the knock module required for the ms3x or is there somewhere it can easily be wired in?

 

Module is required.

https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...ck-module-kit/

 

uploaded some attachments. let me know what the thoughts are guys!

 

See the gaps in the green lines? Your cam signal is cutting out.

No idea why. Bad connection, incorrectly adjusted pots. Noise. Etc.

 

for the dash pots i adjusted them per Franks writeup. I also added the 1k resistor the way frank does.

"– pullup for the VR circuit: Install a 1k resistor in the left hole of R13 (= 5V). Connect the other end to the right side of R45 just below it (= VRIN)"

"Fine adjustment of the VR circuits:
– For the main board, measure the voltage on the upper leg of R54 while turning R56.
– For the MS3X board, measure the voltage on the lower leg of R17 (close to U7) while turning R11.
In both cases, you want to see about 2.5 to 3 volts at that point, which puts you right in the middle of the actual output range of the sensors."

i am honestly not surprised if i have excessive noise. This is just at the initial install stage. i have the 10ft harness uncut running to a diybob i had laying around. The plan is that i use this temporarily while i am prepping my vvt swap. then once that goes in i will build a custom engine harness for the VVT engine that is completely made up of the MS wiring.

 

I'm still surprised its just cutting out like that. Do you have access to an oscilloscope?

 

Happen to have a second CAS that you can try?

 

i do have a second cas.

I should note that this car was running perfectly on a diypnp before i changed to the ms3x.

i have the shielded white wire from the ms3 db37(pin 24) going to 4e on the bob

unshielded green wire from ms3x db37(pin 32) to 4g

a question of curiosity. Does the black wire in the shielded loom need to be used? the bare wire is going to ground as it should.

 

I've been curious how DIY grounds their shield. You can probe around to see if the shield has continuity to the DB37 back shell or to any grounds. The shield must only be grounded on one side, so if DIY already grounded it at the ECU connector, than it should be ungrounded at the sensor side. Having both sides grounded would cause a current loop and can magnify noise.