I gave myself the weekend to figure out MS3 but it doesn't look like I'll have my DD back for work come monday.. Hopefully I can get some help from you guys.

I've attached the logs and am self-declaring that I'm a MS noob. Been reading up on it the past month but can't seem to figure out this startup issue.

I've posted one cranking log and one cranking log with throttle.

The car is an NB2, 2003 Miata. Everything stock besides a CAI. Stock IAT as well. MAF has been disconnected now.

The AFRs are ~1.3 off from the MS3 readings and gauge. Will be working to rectify this issue.

Thanks

*Edit* Here's what happens.. I turn the key to crank and I hit rpms of 300 then it dips right down to 180 and the engine wants to die. If I add gas, I can keep the motor going at whatever RPM I want. I figure tomorrow I'll control the throttle at ~800-1000 rpm as I crank to warm up the coolant then work back from there.

*EDIT Q2* Could I use VE warmup enrichments live and keep the throttle on till the car is warmed up to get the proper tune?

This car is my DD and it was working fine before the MS3 install. So I know nothing is mechanically wrong with it. It might be running into "cold start" issues as its around 55F or 5-10 Celcius.

 

To add to this, the car will crank fine but die as soon as I stop cranking. It might catch for half a second, but I'd barely give it that. My AFRs are around 11-13 during the crank, MS reads differently. Should I be looking at the gauge for the actual AFR?

 

what basemap are you using?

did you calibrate the WB in TS?

 

Revs MS3 basemap.

I will be calibrating the WB today. I was under the impression that setting the voltages was a band-aid solution and that a better ground should be sought out. I have the WB entirely hooked up to the MS3 harness (2 grounds, power and signal). For the time being, the reading of the gauge should be most accurate, right?

*edit*

This is the basemap, I've edited it a bit on the cranking pulsewidth as my coolant temp is around 5C. This morning, the car would only crank and not even start when I throttled. The AFR reads very rich after I stop cranking 10-8. Yesterday with the basic map, I could get the car started if I had my foot on the pedal and idled it around 1k- but as soon as I let it go, the car would die. Today its gotten worse.

I might be getting knocking from the engine during the starts.. Is there anyway I can do some serious damage while tuning start-ups? Also, should I be waiting for the flood to clear before I continually try it again?

 

do you have a really old LC1? are there any WBs on the market that even have a sensor ground anymore?

anyway, you still need to calibrate it so it's looking for the signal yours is outputting.

for exmaple:
innovate is 0v = 7.35 AFR and 5v = 22.4 AFR
while AEM is 0v = 10 AFR and 4.25v = 18 AFR

huge difference in the scale between the two.


regardless, that shouldnt prevent the car from running--just running well.

 

I'm using an AEM Uego + Boost controller. I've setup tunerstudio to calibrate AFR tables to the exact model and my numbers are within ~.5 of each other now. Still having startup problems but just got a hint that it might be a switch I broke during the ECU install.

I have another thread about it, but its the switch that connects to the clutch pedal via a wire. I originally thought it had to do with cruise control, but it might be causing some issue with the startup?? I'm still very confused.